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A few questions for you knowledgables on here on my new purchase???

Beau good advice there yes you can see the needle move from the low side to the middle and back down again as my speed drops as for smoke its grey like unburnt diesel when it finally coughs and fires up that is then its clear Ren there is no immobiliser fitted to my Collie:?
 
Well the temp needle should not remove so you defo have some sort of failed thermostat issue. Worth fixing it as it won't be running at it's optimum temp and you don't want the stat failing completely and shutting off coolant up a long hill!

Unburnt fuel indicates on rotation the injectors are indeed firing fuel but it's not combusting hence the long start. Once started, does it start back quicker after the engine is warm?

Kinda doubt it's the glow plugs. I've had all glow plugs disconnected in cold weather and she still fired up after couple cranks. A little rough and black smoke but settled back pretty quickly. I'm hoping you don't have a compression issue and the thermostat issue isn't linked to the hard start.
 
Well the temp needle should not remove so you defo have some sort of failed thermostat issue. Worth fixing it as it won't be running at it's optimum temp and you don't want the stat failing completely and shutting off coolant up a long hill!

Unburnt fuel indicates on rotation the injectors are indeed firing fuel but it's not combusting hence the long start. Once started, does it start back quicker after the engine is warm?

Kinda doubt it's the glow plugs. I've had all glow plugs disconnected in cold weather and she still fired up after couple cranks. A little rough and black smoke but settled back pretty quickly. I'm hoping you don't have a compression issue and the thermostat issue isn't linked to the hard start.
Thanks Beau it starts about the same hot or cold which makes me suspect drainback i haven't had time to drop the tank yet to inspect the fuel lines i can't see any other obvious leaks anywhere so am hoping it is the pipes that enter the tank "wishful thinking i reckon":wtf: i will be fitting a seperate transmission cooler when i can find one there are that many on eblag which one to choose any suggestions very welcome :thumbup:
 
If you switch off the engine after starting it/warm, and instantly try and start it back, does it fire up straight away or take many cranks?

If it does, I agree it's most likely air in the line. If it doesn't I would say there could be an underlying compression issue. Post your results when you can.
 
Buying a Collie blind, bravest guy on this forum.
Still Chas, there isn't anything which can't be mended. I've not much Collie experience with things going wrong but fundamentals say get that trans looked at, anything thats not clear red isn't good. Any Toyota Cruiser should start easily at any temp so there's something amiss there. I had a D4D but had no issues so I can't help there.
I hope you looked underneath and checked for rust issues and found it satisfactory.
LOVE your opening line.... still rolling around in stitches!!! :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
 
If you switch off the engine after starting it/warm, and instantly try and start it back, does it fire up straight away or take many cranks?

If it does, I agree it's most likely air in the line. If it doesn't I would say there could be an underlying compression issue. Post your results when you can.
Hi Beau when i start it instantly from warm it starts straight away but if i leave it a few mins its back to the cranking not as bad as when starting it from cold but does take some cranking before it fires hope this helps :thumbup:
 
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An update as for the starting issues i find it does take some cranking when warm when parke on my steep drive but starts after only a few cranks when on on the level so it is pointing to fuel drain back!My mate suggested putting a none return valve in fuel line between the filter head and feed pipe a quick fix but not a cure but will stop any drain back from the filter and will show if it is indeed a drainback issue :think: I have been driving the Collie around today and noticed the kickdown cable is sticking is this just a cable issue or something more sinister inside the box:shock: i did lube with wd40 which initially helped i thought but its sticking again any suggestions please:thumbup:
 
Well that's a good sign it's most likely just air in the system. At the age and general UK winters, the lines rot out and can suck in air. This is common on the lines entering in on the top of the tank. A non return valve is a good idea but it's probably a good idea to fix whatever the problem is as well alongside that.

Can't really help with the cable. Try feeding some oil down the cable lines.
 
An update as for the starting issues i find it does take some cranking when warm when parke on my steep drive but starts after only a few cranks when on on the level so it is pointing to fuel drain back!My mate suggested putting a none return valve in fuel line between the filter head and feed pipe a quick fix but not a cure but will stop any drain back from the filter and will show if it is indeed a drainback issue :think: I have been driving the Collie around today and noticed the kickdown cable is sticking is this just a cable issue or something more sinister inside the box:shock: i did lube with wd40 which initially helped i thought but its sticking again any suggestions please:thumbup:

Hi there had a similar issue with the cable sticking / being stuck on my 80. Best thing to go was take it out and inspect that it’s not broken. This should be possible as if the same as the 80 it can be undone from outside of the transmission box.

Then once out gravity feed some lubricant oil drop by drop over each end whilst moving the cable up and down. Does take some time but it makes all the difference.

Did this with mine last year and even when putting it back was 80% better. The remaining 20% took a month or two to foot peddle to correct the peddle pressure smoothly.
 
Hi Dervis,
Unfortunately the transmission pan has to be removed to be able to disconnect the cable its not broken because i can hear it moving the cam in the box when pulled. I did dribble wd 40 down the cable which helped for a while but its sticking again my fear is that if i manage to get enough lube down the cable if will eventually enter the box which i dont think is healthy unless of course i use Dex 2?
 
Hi Dervis,
Unfortunately the transmission pan has to be removed to be able to disconnect the cable its not broken because i can hear it moving the cam in the box when pulled. I did dribble wd 40 down the cable which helped for a while but its sticking again my fear is that if i manage to get enough lube down the cable if will eventually enter the box which i dont think is healthy unless of course i use Dex 2?

Try getting an oil down there, it should work much better than wd-40 ... which is more of a cleaner than an actual lubricant.
 
Try getting an oil down there, it should work much better than wd-40 ... which is more of a cleaner than an actual lubricant.

That’s the thing Grant it’s hard to do that without taking it out. The plastic Stroud is pretty tight and takes time and perseverance to get it between hat and the wire cable.

It’s a job if need be to drain the pan and take it out getting to the cable to take out.
 
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I cut the corner out of a plastic milk bottle then heat a precision screwdriver of the same thickness as cable and stuck it on quick so i could fill the cup with oil and leave it for a while several times .
 
Thanks for all the suggestions good idea Shayne i was thinking on similar lines but was thinking of using atf rather than oil in case it finds its way into the box :?
 
I would use wd-40 because its water based silicone so rather than adding anything your just "wetting" whatever lubricant was originally used , it dries out hence i don't use wd for anything other than freeing things up .

Good luck in getting enough of anything down there to contaminate gearbox oil its certainly not something i would worry about .
 
ATF should work pretty well. Well worth removing the engine bay piece and having it upright and just use gravity for it to trickle itself down.
 
In the end i used duck oil managed to fit a length of fuel hose over the cable end and kept filling the hose then working the cable until oil had drain down cable casing anyway it seems to have freed up the cable at the moment that is :cool: As for the starting issue i fitted a none return valve in the line at the filter head then primed the system via filter Collie started almost straight away yippee success left it a couple of secs yep started instantly :banana-explosion: Then left it a few mins and yes back to the churn churn churn the b*&st^d was back to its old tricks :angry-screaming: So i went to have a ponder and my conclusion i hope is all the priming pressurized the system albeit for a short while and so it started almost instantly due to this but i fitted the valve right at the filter head pick up so obviously the line will still drain back s after a few mins was back to its old tricks. Hopefully tomorrow i will drop the tank if i have time and inspect the line for rot holes and blocked tank filter pick up i am almost convinced that this is the problem but have not had the time to drop the tank so at the moment i hope its not just wishful thinking :icon-rolleyes:
 
An update on the starting issue i managed to remove the tank today and yes you knowledgables on here you were spot on the feed pipe was holed and perforated as seen in the pics i intend to cut the offending bit out and replace with fuel hose really do hope this is the end of my starting problems watch this space:?

fuel tank 005.jpg fuel tank 006.jpg
 
Wow! That's a helluva hole(s). Well done on persevering and finding the problem.
 
Wow! That's a helluva hole(s). Well done on persevering and finding the problem.
Thanks Dave the holes weren't as big when covered in rust but showed themselves after a bit of wire brushing being a bit of a sceptic i do wonder if this was the actual starting problem as there were no signs of diesel around these holes surely if air was able to get in fuel was able to seep out and the area would have been damp???:?
 
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