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Any CAD drawing experts on here ?
- Thread starter Shayne
- Start date
I'd choose another seller if I were you Shayne. What happens if you want to buy a fridge from him? Does he want a full technical drawing? Unreasonable UNLESS you are having them made of course, in which case I totally understand and would suggest a simple drawing on a piece of A4 done in pencil or black ink.
If you really need something I have a CAD program I use from time to time but would hardly call myself an expert. Is it just the PCD you wanted?
If you really need something I have a CAD program I use from time to time but would hardly call myself an expert. Is it just the PCD you wanted?
Towpack
Well-Known Member
x2 with that. In fact, personally, I would have thought simply telling him the PCD and number of wheel studs/bolts would be sufficient unless you require some strange unequal stud spacing. JMO
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I live in Britain and have come to accept that if i want something i could have made at school sneaking into the metal workshop at dinner time then i will have to get it from China . I have no doubt these guys know what they are doing so i'm guessing the drawing is more to do with accountability rather accuracy , a drawing allows for denial as in "he told us it was for a garden ornament your honour"
I am drawing it with pen and paper now and can only hope they go by the measurements described rather than the questionable accuracy of a lead pencil .
And yeah 11 studs of mixed PCD
I am drawing it with pen and paper now and can only hope they go by the measurements described rather than the questionable accuracy of a lead pencil .
And yeah 11 studs of mixed PCD
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Understood Shayne. If you have any issues I have a good relationship with a precision engineers locally. The guy who runs it is a mate and builds and runs rally cars. This would be child's play for them. Cheaper than China for one off? Probably not, but they do make parts FOR China!!
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Here's a better drawing of the hub. Or at least similar.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...tchbbok-anatomy-of-a-trailer-hub.html;600;379
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...tchbbok-anatomy-of-a-trailer-hub.html;600;379
By the looks of it, that nut has been loosened and tightened with a hammer and cold chisel. The good thing about this method is that one size fits all. [emoji4]
I do have a large selection of C spanners. I could flog you one for £10 plus p&p if you let me know the size.
No, wait, you did say recessed, my C spanners won't work then. [emoji20]
Ok, looks like the hammer chisel squaddie fix worked on what looks like the outer cap. That nut in the centre is what's going to need to be undone, and then done up again with a preload.
Suggestion, have you got any old gas pipe or scaffold tube, something that is around the size of the nut? If so, mark and cut equal castellations into the end of it. You won't need all of them as this nut shouldn't be much more than hand tight, two should do, at six o'clock and twelve o'clock. Mark it out then cut away the end leaving the castellations. Then hand grip SHOULD undo the nut and will take hand gripping to do it back up again.
Now, the only thing is there should be two of those nuts, the outer one will probably be pigging tight. The inner one will be as described above, just hand tight. Your tool may need a hole drilled in either side of the tube like a box spanner to help undo the outer nut.
Additionally there is usually some sort of locking bent over tab washer that picks up on the key slot in the axle stub to stop the whole thing unscrewing and losing the wheel. You'll need to bend this out the way first.
Sorry for the topsy turvey instructions but , bend the tab washer out the way, undo outer tight nut, the tab washer will probably pull off next, then the hand tight inner nut and a thick washer before the bearing is visible. Don't let this drop on the floor, put something clean down and wrap it in some clean rag otherwise you'll need to clean the lot out. Keep it all free from any dirt and you won't need to clean it.
All depends on how the nuts are locked.
Suggestion, have you got any old gas pipe or scaffold tube, something that is around the size of the nut? If so, mark and cut equal castellations into the end of it. You won't need all of them as this nut shouldn't be much more than hand tight, two should do, at six o'clock and twelve o'clock. Mark it out then cut away the end leaving the castellations. Then hand grip SHOULD undo the nut and will take hand gripping to do it back up again.
Now, the only thing is there should be two of those nuts, the outer one will probably be pigging tight. The inner one will be as described above, just hand tight. Your tool may need a hole drilled in either side of the tube like a box spanner to help undo the outer nut.
Additionally there is usually some sort of locking bent over tab washer that picks up on the key slot in the axle stub to stop the whole thing unscrewing and losing the wheel. You'll need to bend this out the way first.
Sorry for the topsy turvey instructions but , bend the tab washer out the way, undo outer tight nut, the tab washer will probably pull off next, then the hand tight inner nut and a thick washer before the bearing is visible. Don't let this drop on the floor, put something clean down and wrap it in some clean rag otherwise you'll need to clean the lot out. Keep it all free from any dirt and you won't need to clean it.
All depends on how the nuts are locked.
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Couldn't find anything on ebay so had a go with the chisel its been tightened by a one man army and i will have to buy another by the time it shifts . Plan is to find a bit of pipe with a 45mm inner diameter cut some slots out and weld a handle on it . Your right about the tabs but they are on the second nut . Not worried about getting them off i just hoped there was a spanner i had never heard of lurking in halfrauds .
Got a friendly army barracks near you?
Shayne, put 'castle nut spanner' into eBay. There's a few things come up. Might be something suitable.
I'm truly impressed Shayne. Not just the two pronged attack we spoke of. Hats off to ya for hitting most of the points on the nut.
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Had the pipe been the right diameter i would have used a hacksaw and made something to keep but it wasn't so a 4" grinder was accurate enough , I put a crowbar in that hole and the nut was tight enough to deform the pipe a fair bit before the nut cracked . No doubt i would have destroyed it which the chisel approach .
