In the process of swapping boxes with the spare truck I bought. I started on taking the knacked box out of my original truck and got as far as removing the cooling pipes from the side of the box. However I am having issues with getting the pipes released from the union's at the side of the box? There isn't enough room to get a turn on ther spanner and I only have a crow's foot socket that goes to 19mm?? I have starter out, props off and all work done in the engine bay but haven't touched the mounting plate yet as I don't want the box to drop and damage the cooler pipes??
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Auto Box removal
- Thread starter L18 CGL
- Start date
Sorry - was there a question in there?
I don't recall doing anything special with the pipes when I swapped my auto box. It was all pretty straight forward. I just checked the FSM on this and it confirms that they should be undone.
The box won't drop. It's held on two dowels and needs wiggling off once everything is undone. I have to split mine again soon to do the TC seal. Damn. But this time I will split the transfer case of first. The whole thing on its own is just too big.
Chris
I don't recall doing anything special with the pipes when I swapped my auto box. It was all pretty straight forward. I just checked the FSM on this and it confirms that they should be undone.
The box won't drop. It's held on two dowels and needs wiggling off once everything is undone. I have to split mine again soon to do the TC seal. Damn. But this time I will split the transfer case of first. The whole thing on its own is just too big.
Chris
Not really. As I said, I simply don't recall it being a problem and I don't have anything special that we used. I am guessing that Scott will see this post at some point and may have words of wisdom. I don't remember what we did use, but it would have been standard tool kit stuff. What is it that is in the way of you getting at it with the spanner?
Chris
Chris
Picture in the FSM just shows the use of two spanners and that's all I can remember. We really never gave it a second thought. There were bits that were a pain, but clearly we didn't encounter the problem you're having. Bell housing bolts were fun, but wobble bars and to pairs of hands got those sorted. Best to come in through the hole in the top of the transmission tunnel where the shift levers go.
Chris
Chris
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Just remove the gear shift plate from the top of the transmission tunnel, lower the back of the box and access to the top of the bell housing from inside is a none issue. I think from the factory the cooler union nuts are very tight or have undergone some sort of bonding over time because once someone has cracked them open they seem to be ok next time. If you lower the back of the gearbox you should get more clearance for your spanner.L18 CGL said:
Yes, you have to remove that in any case. Perhaps this is why you are having the issue and I can't understand why. Are you following the FSM or making it up as you go along 
There are only 21 steps in the procedure. It's a good guide as it shows the number and location of all the bell housing bolts etc.
Chris
There are only 21 steps in the procedure. It's a good guide as it shows the number and location of all the bell housing bolts etc.Chris
Scott
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- Mar 17, 2010
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As Jon has said, try lowering the back of the box down to provide you with more room to swing the spanner, do stick an axle stand under there aswell whilst you busy wrestling with it.Jon Wildsmith said:
Again as Jon has already beaten me too it, the oil cooler pipe joints to the autobox are pretty tight. I'm trying to remember what I used on them, it may have been a small or medium sized adjustable that opened to the required MM but fitted in them gap, then just apply brute force.
If my memory serves me correctly, when we were installing the replacement autobox into Chris's, the oil cooler pipes bolted up to the unions no problem but we had had a good game of it trying to get the cooler pipe clamp located into the side of the box, further up and forward on the side of the box.
Anyway, good luck and be careful if your doing it on your own, as it's a big lump to manoeuvre.
yes, as Chris mentioned, much easier to handle with the transfer box removed but still a hand full. Interesting weight difference between the diesel auto which is a two man job to lift really and the manual box and petrol auto box's which are both an easy one man lift (humping them about, not lifting them back onto the truckScott said:
)Got them off with a 22mm Crow foot! Had use of a 4 poster and 2 gearbox jacks so it made life alot eaiser but still a lump of a thing to move. Now have to strip box out of donor truck and slip it into mine. Glad I ain't paying someone an hourly rate to do it!
Set of BEB going in and my spare rear axle with locker!
Set of BEB going in and my spare rear axle with locker!
What year is your truck? Sounds like your old transfer box must have been a HF2A and the new one a HF2AV?
Yes that must be the case. Bot trucks are 94 Jap but donor truck has ABS so must be wee bit fresher. Also Jon whats the difference in splines with non locker shafts to locker units from memory, I think non locker is 28 spline and locker is 30 spline?
That makes sense, the truck with ABS would have a HF2AV with the VC in the transfer box. I don't know about the spline counts, sorry, only that on the e-locker the drivers side splines are longer to work with the locking collar.
