brake pipe repair

[al/c]

i,ve just had one of the hard lines that run from front to back fail, anyone recommend a good repair kit. thanks Alex.

 

[flint]

Better to replace the whole section rather than a partial repair on the existing pipe if possible. Kunifer is easier to work with than steel and can be just as neat if you're careful. Sykes do good flaring tools.

 

[al/c]

thanks for the reply, got a flaring tool and pipe, 99% of the pipe is in good condition, seems that one point has been rubbing the chassis so going to try just replacing the rusted part, any signs of problems and i,ll replace the lot. done this a long time ago on my mr2 drag car and it was fine.

 

[flint]

You're welcome, good luck with it.

 

[al/c]

replaced today, all ok and a lot cheaper than using mrT.

 

[al/c]

as an addition to anyone with similar problems i bought a powerhand flaring tool, and the pipe and fittings came from rally spares.works perfect!

 

[clivehorridge]

I always used to make my own pipes on the old days, but preferred copper over Kunifer for some reason.
Copper was easier to work with I think and I never had any issues for MOTs. I always tried to use new screw ends too, if they were available.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

Going down the same route myself now with a LC100

Just as a heads up; Not all countires MOT-equivalent are fond of copper piping...

I do agree 100% on using new fittings whenever the opportunity arises.

 

[flint]

I think that copper’s banned in the US now. The problem with it is vibration work hardening and then it’ll crack. If it’s properly supported on a tarmac only car it’s probably ok, but I think some of the rally boys have had some close shaves with failures and now stick to Kunifer.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

Along those lines Flint!
Germans too ain`t impressed with the copper.

Kunifer is way more resistant but also more complex to work with.
I do too try & stick with the kunifer.

 

[clivehorridge]

All that makes sense.