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Car Bucks / crabs when turning

OK, I'm no expert on 100's to say the very least, but I do have an 80, but it's a manual.

Please try to get it out of your head that you are switching in and out of 4x4. It's 4x4 all the time.

What you're doing is locking or unlocking the centre differential. When unlocked, the front wheels and the back wheels can rotate at different speeds, when locked they rotate at the same speed.

With CDL you will feel a scrubbing, but not so violent as yours sounds, IMHO.

What you describe sounds like the rear locker is engaged, meaning the rear left and right wheels will be rotating at the same speed. When you corner, especially on full steering, normally the inside wheel will literally skip, this is violent on dry asphalt, which I'm sure is the norm where you are.

I'm not sure whether you will have a rear diff lock, but you may have a limited slip diff. It could be that which is giving you problems.
 
^ wot Clive said, plus, if the viscous has gone you will get heavy steering as well as scrub. If just the rear diff lock then just scrubbing.
 
Thanks guys that is useful ! . Unfortunately I don't have access to another 100 series to know if what I experience is normal .
i don't have heavy front steering .
thank you for explaining CDL makes more sense . I do not have a rear locker .

i just had the diff oil changed in the car , it was black . It now has 75w-140 instead of 75w-90 as I hoped to offer protection if towing .

is there a way to test if it's the LSD? And to check if I have an LSD ?




thank you
 
You have 4 worn tyres probably all different sizes (even if they were the same size when new) and your wheel tracking and alignment is almost certainly way out of spec . Either of those things would play havoc with the handling of a 2wd car and yours is a permanent 4x4 suffering both .
 
If you can't find anything in the specs of the car regarding the LSD you can test for one by raising both rear wheels off the ground with the parking brake off and turning one wheel by hand. The other wheel should move in the same direction if it's a LSD. With a fully open diff the wheels will turn in opposite directions. I've no idea if the 100 series had the VC of the later 80 series but if it has, the transfer box ID will have 'V' suffix. ie. HF2A no VC or HF2AV with a VC fitted.
 
Search on here for axle codes and look on your identification plate. I'm pretty sure there is a thread somewhere on axle codes which is how I found mine has a LSD when I could move the wheels in opposite directions.

Go back in this thread, jack the car up and try it. Badly worn UJs could contribute but would be noisy. There's a whole heap of possibilities here and you may have a combination of two or more giving the problem. Tests you can do for free with the car jacked up, others will cost (tyres) but each one tried will narrow the search, it's just a process of elimination.
 
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It all sounds like a diff is locked somewhere . . .

If you have a LSD in the rear, it should have LSD oil in it - not 80W140. It may be this that is causing the LSD to be permanently locked.

Which market was the car built for (presumably not the UK) ?? That might help in establishing the spec.

Bob.
 
I was just thinking - if the car had an LSD , and the gear oil that was put in was 75W-140 ( not LSD type) , could this be causing the same symptoms?
And if this was the case, if the car had done 200 km since this was done, is this enough to have screwed / destroyed the LSD clutch plates?
Can the LSD clutch plates be changed / repaired? Or do I need a new diff

Thanks
 
Hi guys - me again lol
I was not sure how to tell how my car had an LSD or not. Now having learn't some more - here are some ways to tell ( for anyone who gets the same issue I have , where I didn't know what I had, and possibley put the wrong oil in)

- check this video out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JikvViNIhqw

- Or Chock the front wheels so they cant roll. Jack the rear of the car up so both wheels off the ground. Put the car into neutral, now spin one of the rear wheels, if they both rear wheels spin in the same direction you have an LSD , and if one wheel spins one direction, and the other wheel turns counter that direction, then you do not have an LSD. ( This is on the basis you have no DIFF lock )

Now I know this - When I get my car back in a few days I will get it up on a ramp lift and see if I have an LSD or not. IF I have an LSD then I have found the issue most likely , which would be it does not have LSD oil in it , so the clutch packs are either now really damaged or just been tight - hoping I have not screwed it., a new diff is 600 GBP

Cheers
 
No problem with the 100 Gra, just don't buy a dog. I spent a number of years in the Middle East and saw how the LC's are looked after so it doesn't surprise me to hear about some of desertrogue's problems...
 
Sorry guys I have been writing posts not seeing that you guys have posted some earlier stuff already explaining the things to me :S - sorry about that :( , for some reason it was not refreshing on my phone.

The car was made for the UAE Middle East
GRA - LC120 is correct , the LC is a very tough and over engineered car, the problem with mine is like LC120 says, they don't look after them here. Cars are typically serviced at the petrol station with an oil change, and then the rest is neglected. Also if there are things broken they tend to take it to a back street workshop who will fix the problem for $50.

And example would be - when changing the sway bar bushes, we found that the previous owner/ mechanic instead of replacing a sway bar bush which was $9 , they took some thick nylon cloth and wrapped this around the sway bar, then put the worn bush back on, so to the naked eye the bush doesn't look worn, however when we took it apart the bush was toast!, half of it was missing from the inside . So that is an example of maintenance here, hence this car I have which belive it or not is the CLEANEST one I have seen here to date. Cosmetically it looks like a brand new car both inside and out, even smells like a new car still!.


Guys thank you for the tips on the LSD, I am going to the garage tomorrow night and they will let me put it up on the ramp and look for a plate on the diff and spin the wheels to see what I have.

Will keep you all posted.
 
The plate you are looking for is your Vehicle Identification plate with the model number, transmission codes, trim codes etch on it and (on my 81) is located on the bulkhead under the bonnet. Search for axle codes on here and you will see what axle it left the factory with.
 
hey guys - wanted to update as promised ,

Got the car back, jacked it up, there was no plate on the axle, but both wheels span i nthe same direction so it had an LSD, took the car and had all the oil drained and replaced it with Royal Purple 75w-90 which has LSD stuff in it too, problem has instantly disappeared! so diff is all smooth, , and the magnetic plug just had some grey like paste which is most likley the friction material off the LSD plates.

Lets hope I didnt distroy them too much in the 200KM I drove it


Thank again for all your help and advice
 
I am sure it will be fine. If it's was me I would change again in 100, 500 and 1000 miles. To be sure all the wrong oil is gone.
 
Glad it's sorted D R, and thanks for the update. Useful info for me as I have the same axle.
 
:text-+1: Hey, good news, thought it sounded like a locked diff... :thumbup:
 
Thanks again to you guys for all your support and answering some of my rather stupid questions , glad I got there in the end
This is a great forum!

Downside is where you fix one problem you get another, now we just saw - the front upper control arm ball joint boots have both cracked, so now they need to be done - argh! , they were fine when we first checked , but the car has been up on a ramp for 1 weeks,so the suspension has had time to stretch out and the age of the boots have just given in and torn

Cheers Guys
 
Well, at least you have found them while it's on the ramp not out on a back road somewhere with no help around.

One more tick for peace of mind.
 
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