Catch Cans & EGRs Why your diesel’s clogging up & losing power

[Michael Montgomery]

REVEALED! Diesel Inlet blockage happens in EVERY common rail diesel. In well under 100,000km - your 4WD engine could be clogged, losing power and not cooling as well as it should. In this video - we show you why and how it happens - and the best way to prevent it - which is a quality Catch Can. We talk to 4WD filtration experts - Mann and Hummel - who give you the in-depth info you're looking for!

 

[Bert]

Ha, funny enough I'm watching this now on Boobtube, and I hought I'd look up "catch can" on the forum, and you pop up!

 

[Beau]

Yup, I've had a catch can and blocked EGR for the past 60,000 miles. When I had the intake off absolutely zero oil/crud. EGR is more so the killer than the crankcase pressure on these diesels I believe.

 

[Chris]

When I blocked my EGR I found the intake full of sludge and gunk. Having had the intake off again this week to do the valve clearances, I had a look and other than a wipe with a rag it was clean.

 

[uHu]

When I blocked my EGR I found the intake full of sludge and gunk. Having had the intake off again this week to do the valve clearances, I had a look and other than a wipe with a rag it was clean.

So you are saying: No need for a catch can?

 

[Chris]

I'm not saying anything at all. Just that mine was solid, blanked the EGR off and now it's still clean.
EGRs are a rubbish idea and only work, in any case, on the over run and at idle. I think the reason that people see, or at least think they see an increase in performance after blanking them is that there's less crap blocking up their pipes. Sometimes the EGR will jam in the open position which isn't good. But jammed closed shouldn't be an issue to power. As for catch cans, I can't say. Not got one.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

No EGR the 12v 80's. Had a catch can for years on a a rebuilt motor and never ever built up to need emptying. Asked my mechanic if needed he said no need being a new fresh motor. Old high milage motor usually need them so I've read but not sure on newer more modern engines.

 

[Towpack]

If you had zero oil mist (virtually impossible) passing through the inlet the particulates from the EGR would possibly pass straight through, as does the oil mist when the EGR is blanked and there’s nothing for it to mix with and form the sticky sludge.

 

[Iwan]

12v's come from the end of the golden age of cruisers! 24v are from the beginning of I don't know what! But there's quite a few differences between the two... JMO.. more basic with no extra electronics ecu's etc. I like them both but.. prefer a more basic older ones!

 

[Deleted member 13129]

If you had zero oil mist (virtually impossible) passing through the inlet the particulates from the EGR would possibly pass straight through, as does the oil mist when the EGR is blanked and there’s nothing for it to mix with and form the sticky sludge.

I have zero oil mist , the PCV is piped around 30cm upwards with a silicone pipe to stop oil being thrown out of the PCV vent into a oil catch can connected to the top of the inner wing and then piped across the firewall behind the intercooler then down the side of the opposite inner wing and under the Truck vented to air via a small k&n type filter instead of piped in to the Turbo air inlet, and with the EGR valve fully blanked at the engine cylinder head port of the EGR cooler no carbon soot enters through the EGR valve and down the inlet manifold or oil mist getting sucked through the Turbo inlet and through the intercooler then through the inlet manifold , oil mist and carbon soot = blocked inlet manifolds with carbon mud, on the LC120 you need a ozbush manual fuel mapper connected so you dont get engine light lighting up with the P0400 code fault . which says EGR flow error . total cost £23 oil catch can , £25 for 3 metres silicone 16mm ID tubing, £100 oz bush mapper ,£8 slotted EGR blanking plate . blanking plate is a bit of a faf to slip in with out taking all EGR cooler and EGR valve off , as is trying to disconnect common fuel rail connector for access to EGR engine side port .

 

[Towpack]

Regarding the zero oil mist I was thinking primarily about the PCV being run into the intake as intended. As a keen motorcyclist I would never advocate or condone venting the PCV out under the vehicle no matter what filter it has on it. There’s enough crap on the roads these days without adding to it. JMO

 

[Deleted member 13129]

Regarding the zero oil mist I was thinking primarily about the PCV being run into the intake as intended. As a keen motorcyclist I would never advocate or condone venting the PCV out under the vehicle no matter what filter it has on it. There’s enough crap on the roads these days without adding to it. JMO

Nothing comes out of it apart from the smell of oil fumes it comes out as a bit of smoke , any oil around 100 mil per 10 k miles because of the upward pipe instead of level stays in the catch can .

 

[chapel gate]

good post dervis.
so it appears the perfect set up is working EGR with a catch can. the cynic in me finds it hard to believe a representative from a company such as MANN would say anything else..
also why are catch cans not an OEM fitment?
the amount of gunk that builds up on the intake side with a closed loop crank case gas set up, you would of thought it would soon make a mess of a top mounted intercooler. I wonder what the inside of the intercooler looks like on a hilux or rav 4?
ive long been meaning to fit a catch can or at least vent to a chassis rail..

 

[chapel gate]

12v's come from the end of the golden age of cruisers! 24v are from the beginning of I don't know what! But there's quite a few differences between the two... JMO.. more basic with no extra electronics ecu's etc. I like them both but.. prefer a more basic older ones!

theres no electronics on the FT that cant be removed iwan. both engines have a solenoid fuel cut off, even this could be removed if we don't mind having a pull lever in the cabin with a rather fetching brass knob..

 

[RobfromYork]

I’ve been thinking about a catch can for a while. Before I get one I’d like to see how much gunk has built up. How hard is it to remove the inlet manifold? Any pointers/bits that I would need?

 

[chapel gate]

There's nothing to it really Rob. Just give the area a clean and make sure nothing drops down the inlet manifold/turbo pipe.

 

[BobMurphy]

No. 1 daughter's 2.2l D4-D (common rail) RAV4 blew its head gasket at around 170,000 miles. When I stripped it down I was amazed at the amount of carbon in the inlet ports . . .



I couldn't see the valve stems!

The Inlet Valve ports were much the same.




After a thorough clean-up (it took weeks !), a pressure test and reconditioned Injectors etc it was looking a lot better.

Everything down-stream of the EGR Valve was the same. Cleaning it all out was a labour of love.


Hand-lapping 16 tiny valves was a bit of a pain .

I decided against blocking the EGR as the RAV will undoubtedly know that its been tampered with and will object. Its now got 199,000 miles on it and runs extremely well, though the oil turns as black as your hat after a very short run - the bores are obviously worn with lots of blow-by.

Recently, my 2003 Ford Focus 1.8l TDCi started playing up and was eventually sounding extremely sick. I took the intercooler hose off the inlet manifold and with a small mirror and a torch established that the EGR Valve was stuck open.

On these Fords the EGR valve is part of the inlet manifold and can't be removed on its own. How to shut the valve . . . . .

I removed the vacuum pipe and applied my air compressor . . "CLANG" . . the mirror showed that it was indeed shut .

I then blocked the vacuum hose and have been running it without the EGR since. It hasn't objected and its back to normal. I don't fancy replacing the inlet manifold as its a pig to get at (down the back on the motor of course).

This car only has 64,000 miles on it, I have had it from new and its been well looked after all its life. It is 16 years old though so I suppose time is as important as mileage.




The intercooler had a lot of oil in it and I had to remove it and flush it out with industrial cleaner.

So many cars . . So many problems . . . .

Bob.

 

[Towpack]

I’ve been thinking about a catch can for a while. Before I get one I’d like to see how much gunk has built up. How hard is it to remove the inlet manifold? Any pointers/bits that I would need?

The inlet manifold isnt that easy, all the injector pipes in the way etc. The air crossover pipe is very easy by comparison, just a few bolts. Both will probably have an unhealthy coating of black crud.

 

[chapel gate]

The inlet manifold isnt that easy, all the injector pipes in the way etc. The air crossover pipe is very easy by comparison, just a few bolts. Both will probably have an unhealthy coating of black crud.

Oops, I read cross over pipe for some reason. Must be the sun.
Sorry Rob.

 

[leeloo]

normal running with load, at optimal temperatures no need for catch can. Lots of short trips, city driving with cold engine, a catch can might make a diference