CV joint question.

[wobbly]

Last year at Lincomb when I engaged low box, the CV joint on the offside front was clattering. I bought the parts, but for a variety of weather related issues (lost my workshop/ramp access) Ive not done it yet.

Recently Ive started to get what sounds like a grinding noise when in High (normal) , mostly when I'm turning or going over potholes.

I know the steering rack bushes are suspect, but am wondering if these noises could be the cv reaching its end?

Would a cv joint exhibit rough grinding type noises like this?

I have to do the cv, the steering bushes and the drop bars, I have the parts but am hoping for some warmer weather as its the driveway workshop at the moment !

Pete

 

[J66P]

a cv will typically just give a clicking noise on full lock, i doubt that will be your grinding issue

 

[wobbly]

Best I change the cv, rack bushes and drop link, got the parts, just need a bit warmer weather!

Changed the discs and pads, may take them off and check them.

Hopefully its something simple....

Pete

 

[fridayman]

Also worth checking wheel bearings when you get grinding noises.

 

[wobbly]

Is there a simple test for bearings?

 

[OG.]

Wheel bearing noise will get louder of quieter as you turn one way or the other.

 

[wobbly]

Think Im going to have to do some more testing - when I rock the vehicle there is a definite knock from the drivers side, so I guess I need to add suspension and balljoints in as well.....

If it stays warm might start on Monday.

Pete

 

[OG.]

For the knocking check the anti-roll bar bushes and the drop links on the ends of the anti roll bars.

 

[fridayman]

Is there a simple test for bearings?

Jack the wheel off the ground and turn it slowly by hand - it should turn smoothly all the way round in both directions.

 

[Chris]

Rack bushes are very unlikely to be the cause of noise. Get an assistant, have them wobble the steering wheel whilst you look at the rack. If it flexes more than 5mm or so in its mounting then it needs doing at some point. If it moves back and forth more than that, it wants doing sooner rather than later. If all it does is flex, then leave it alone.

They look at this in the MOT and it's a fail if it's too much. So if you have had an MOT recently then it should be fine.

Chris

 

[wobbly]

The drop link def needs replacing as the rubber boot is shredded. Would be well pleased if that was the problem!

Will check the bearing tomorrow.

The mot tester said the rack bushes are showing signs of wear and will need doing, so I got a set of super-pro ones.

I notice the noise when I go over pot holes, but dont want to think it might be Ironman related....

Have to have everything done by 9th April as I am doing a course at RoSPA in Birmingham and need it back on the road by then.

A quick question......

The arb drop link - how tight do the bolts have to be?

Pete

 

[Chris]

RoSPA course, Dear Lord no. Not Bloomin Elf n Safety. Why for pity's sake? I was there the other week. Nice sandwich shop round the corner.

Drop links. Well, it's not easy to define, but when you lean left and right, the bar obviously compresses the little rubbers. What you need is for the nut to be sufficiently tight so that the washer behind the nut doesn't jingle. It's not very scientific. Don't tighten them till they squished flat, but you need more than a nip.

C

 

[wobbly]

Cheers, am going to give it a go tomorrow as todays lunch involved more real ale than is advisable when handling tools......

Ive got a 3 day abrasive wheel trainers course with Rospa in April, staying at a travelodge at Fort Dunlop for 3 nights, its like a mini-holiday, but without the luxury, and including work....... am doing lots of H&S trainer courses at the moment, Ive been offered all the training work for a H&S company that one of my mates runs, but I need certification for some of the topics. EDF are building a new power station nearby, the companies bidding for work have to have all their paperwork in order, including Level 1 (basic training) in all the ususal suspects, manual handling, asbestos awareness, fire safety awareness, and some Level 2 stuff, ie abrasive wheels, scaffold tower erection, and confined spaces (i'm not doing that one)etc, its not what I normally do (I'm a Police Trainer, but there hasnt been any work for outside trainers since about 2009) so Ive decided to retrain in some new topics. I like training cos its better than actually working....

Pete

 

[wobbly]

Ok, had a look at the truck, think the knocking noise will be the broken drop link - the rubber boot was concealing the fact that the drop link has snapped at the 90deg point.

I have the spares, but I would like it to be at least 1deg above freezing, and if the wind could drop as well that would be nice.....

I suppose I could remove the drop links completely and this should improve front ifs articulation off road, but as 99.9% of the time I am on roads I think I will keep it as is.

Wonder if this wa sthe grinding noise as well? Will see if it still happens afterwards.

Cheers

Pete

 

[OG.]

I ran mine for about a month with no drop links - including all the recent snowy period. No issues at all and the body roll isnt too much of an issue if you don't hammer into corners.

 

[wobbly]

Have taken the old drop link off, looks like the flexible joint had seized up - probably the shredded rubber cover letting in crud - and the pressure on the resultant solid elbow was too much, causing it to snap.

I reckon the grinding I could hear was the now-non-flexible joint being forced to move. Had a little drive round today and all seems quiet now, which is good. Still going to refit the droplink to keep both sides the same.

CV joint next.

Pete

 

[fridayman]

Have taken the old drop link off, looks like the flexible joint had seized up - probably the shredded rubber cover letting in crud - and the pressure on the resultant solid elbow was too much, causing it to snap.

I reckon the grinding I could hear was the now-non-flexible joint being forced to move. Had a little drive round today and all seems quiet now, which is good. Still going to refit the droplink to keep both sides the same.

CV joint next.

Pete

You could fit the slightly longer Terrano links.

 

[wobbly]

I have a spare set of LC ones to put on, but the Terrano ones are maybe a better idea as I'm sure the lift must put it all under more pressure.

There is a thread on here somewhere, will have a look and see which ones I could use.

When I took the old one off, it was seized at its most acute angle, so another 6-8mm would make a big difference.

Pete

 

[wobbly]

Also removed the n/s front droplink. Awaiting the Terrano ones before refitting.

There is a noticeable difference, front end not as sharp, tends to understeer slightly more, so am keeping the speed down. You can feel more through the steering, and not in a better way.

The droplink I took off was a pain, the bottom bolt does not have flat sides on the droplink side, so in order to undo the bottom bolt you need to use a clamping mole grip or similar, the replacement ones are flat sided rather than circular, so easier to tighten.

Cheers

Pete

 

[Chris]

Some have a hex key slot in the end. Usually full of mud.

Chris