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Diesel priming

david2001

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Joined
Oct 10, 2022
Messages
109
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zimbabwe
Hello!
My car is cranking ok now after some electronic issues with immobiliser
I changes my tank some months ago then also did a complete inlet decarbonisation as it was obviously clogged badly
Everything is refitted correctly but I don’t know the process to remove air from the system!
Since I removed and replaced the injector pipes do I have to each injector line….?
The primer pump seems to be ok but what is the correct procedure for this situation?
Thanks for info
David
 
I've actually ran my 100 out of fuel on 2 occasions. On both occasions I've simply refuelled and cranked the engine a few seconds as at a time and its fired up easily. I leave it to idle a while and its been good to go.
 
I’ll try that today
I also will be checking whether my hazard switch is stuck …and also see if replacing indicator blown light makes a difference to my flashing problems..hazard lights come on when batteries connected!
Thanks
David
 
What else to check… I’ve tried cranking engine on 6 occasions and pumping the primer till my finger hurt!! There’s at least 50 litres diesel in the tank. I’m afraid I’ll run the batteries down.
David
 
The 1hd-fte is easy with regards to priming. Pump by hand (not finger :)) until firm, then it will do the rest automagically.
The only thing to keep in mind is that the injection pump is lubricated by the diesel, so if the tank is empty, we should not be cranking (or downhill starting (if manual)) for too long. That's why we have the primer.
If it doesn't start within 10 sec, I'm afraid you still might have a problem with the immobiliser, if fuel supply is good.
 
I am getting good cranking.So I think no immobiliser issue now? Right?
The prime pump knob is missing so I’ll have to improvise to get better action there
I’ll also remove filter and crank to confirm diesel is coming from tank when I do crank
I have removed the hazard fuse!!so no more flashing till this engine runs!
Thanks
David
 
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Easier to just loosen the return, and see that you can pump fuel trough.

The immobiliser relies on the 15A ECU-B fuse, btw.
 
Where is the ECU-B fuse? I’m finding the fuse diagram confusing with the 15A fuses!
 
Where is the ECU-B fuse? I’m finding the fuse diagram confusing with the 15A fuses
 
Fuse locations depend a bit on year/month of production, but I believe yours is before 2002, so it should be behind the left side kick panel.
 
Thanks! I removed the ecuB fuse and engine cranks ok but still can’t get fuel at return pipe from injector pump?
Is this the fuel pump not working?.i have primed many times now and palm getting sore?primer not working too?
What next. I’m thinking of feeding from fuel container straight to injector pump but maybe too little pressure.
 
Thanks Mr Uhu… your advice was very stimulating and I did the following
Primed the filter from a funnel then ‘primed the diesel pump’ with a little diesel too through the feed pipe
Cranked and it coughed a bit .then when I opened the diesel pump feed it was dry so I repeated the whole process and then when I cranked again it started and is running well….i suppose just too much air in the system
The ecuB fuse is out….the hazard fuse is also out!!!
I am so relieved and now wonder how I should proceed with the immobiliser issue
For a start I’ll open up the hazard switch and check if operating correctly and not stuck
Again many thanks!
David
 
A typical immobiliser may have a fuse to it and ecuB could be the fuse.
It then arms and disarms of course with a fob or something.
When armed it can lock off the starter motor and potentially activate a fuel cut off solenoid on the fuel pump and flash the flashers to tell you when it arms or disarms.
You can’t just pull a fuse to disable the immobiliser as it will then be unable to disarm the fuel cut off and starter cut off.
To me it sounds like your immobiliser is unable to disarm so the fuel is cut off??
Yours may be different of course David but it’s spooky that the issues with the flashers, starter and fuel could all be interconnected with an immobiliser.
Not sure if this helps but I would try to find out if there is a fuel cut off solenoid or something. Not sure if anyone else can help??
 
Thanks! I’ll replace the ECUB fuse and see what happens tomorrow.Removing it allowed me to start the engine after priming the filter and injector pump as I described! So it’s possible there’s other site/fuse/relay such as the EFI maybe?
I’ll also replace the hazard fuse after that and see!im thinking I might have flasher relay malfunction !The hazard switch is ok as far as I can tell after examining it.
More fun coming up
David
 
By the way the filter was bone dry hence manual priming method with the funnel etc….engine ran ok for 15 minutes and so no issues there
David
 
Hi Ben! I feel like a magician who doesn’t understand the tricks he does
I started the car and ran 15 minutes
I removed the EFI fuse and cleaned and replaced it
I then replaced the hazard fuse and there was no flashing like before…(hazards started flashing soon as batteries connected even with ignition key on Off)
I restarted car and all good again indicators now all working
Then after replacing the ECU-B fuse the car started without any issues and all working normally
I can only say it was likely removing the Evi fuse and replacing it could have been the cure!!??
 
I will not use the Fob for time being but will try that at weekend! I’m too happy now
I will use key manually to lock etc till I have courage to start electronic puzzles again
I read that once Evi fuse starts misbehaving one may need new fuse box
David
 
Well done David. Yes, it could be the parts the fuse sit in that are corroded?
Anyway well done again
 
YYY
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