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EGR removal/blanking on 3.0 TD series

Ah that's Beau's 1kz with only half an exhaust when he was playing with the idea of making his own exhaust , the other vids on that thread are my truck .
 
Shayne said:
Ah that's Beau's 1kz with only half an exhaust when he was playing with the idea of making his own exhaust , the other vids on that thread are my truck .
Click to expand...
:text-bravo:

I could,nt get ur vid to play on ebox anyway car fixed hopefully as it was the turbo pipe clasp as had a look wen I got to work and found fresh oil so fix that today and job done.
Its amazing how such a small air leak can cause so many problems.
 
CAR ALL FIXED :text-bravo:.
The fault was the turbo hose clip as i had put it back it was on an angle but looking dwn at it looked ok.
It was resting on the metal nobble on the bottom of the crossmember so vacuum was escaping and the turbo not getting full lubrication from the oily like crap it was loseing hence my tapperty noise.
The time when i fitted the jubilee clip and engine run perfect rose my suspicions until the turbo boost pressure loosened it and noise came back so had to fight to get the clip over as the plastic piece in the centre of the clip was broken .
Thanks for all ur imput guys and trust me i will be back.:text-thankyoublue::teasing-newbie:
 
Think my fan bearings on my turbo are the cause of my tapperty noise as googled it and there are clips on youtube showing just the turbo problem.
After reading up on the cause of this it turns out to be an oil starved turbo and caused by my turbo pipe clip not on correct.
I still have the vacuum noise but only around 2000rpm and a very strange thing is before this happened my temp needle never moved but now moves a lot faster and goes to half way just moves faster.
This was a worry for me as i use the motorway every day so armed with extra water in stock i hit the motorway and kept a close eye on the needle but as always got to half and dropped just below the half.
With the needle on half i decided to see if i had lost power at high speed but got there ok and temp needle stayed as normal.
Found plenty of turbos for my lc90 if needed and new one is £160 scrap yard £80.
I read that the lc90 has a turbo boost sensor but not sure were it is located if it has one and also were is the turbo located exactly .

All pics will be most welcome.:text-thankyoublue::text-worthless:

Ps i have to make mistakes to learn at my cost but learn i must with members help and pics.
 
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The needle being just below horizontal is normal i would say , I have no idea how quickly it gets there but its usually about 5 minutes before its warm enough to work the heater in my truck . If your needle drops a little when you put your foot down i would guess you have crap sandwiched between the aircon condensor and the rad blocking airflow .

Your turbo is oil and water cooled , oil is fed by a 1" diameter (approx) metal pipe and the water an 8 maybe 10mm pipe . I was assuming your "turbo leak" was in the 2" approx diameter pipe that comes up vertical from the turbo ? if so that carries nothing but air .

To see your turbo get under the truck - your exhaust is bolted to it .
 
Jeez my memory is going to pot , looking at my own pic my turbo cooling pipes description is wrong ,but regardless the point is the oil enters the turbo from a separate pipe than the one you had a leak in .

This is my truck with the turbo out

34046-fc930dec9986ff23d1236fa5af8e6bd2.jpg
 
Shayne said:
The needle being just below horizontal is normal i would say , I have no idea how quickly it gets there but its usually about 5 minutes before its warm enough to work the heater in my truck . If your needle drops a little when you put your foot down i would guess you have crap sandwiched between the aircon condensor and the rad blocking airflow .

Your turbo is oil and water cooled , oil is fed by a 1" diameter (approx) metal pipe and the water an 8 maybe 10mm pipe . I was assuming your "turbo leak" was in the 2" approx diameter pipe that comes up vertical from the turbo ? if so that carries nothing but air .

To see your turbo get under the truck - your exhaust is bolted to it .
Click to expand...

Yes the turbo pipe it was and 2in pipe.
Yes mine is warmish with in a few mins but my needle never moves above quarter mark even with heating off and around 8 to 10 miles later.
My needle now moves with in 5 mins of me moving off and hits half way with me half way home but it has warmed up a little tho.
How come u removed your turbo or was it just bigger turbo fitted.
How hard is it to remove and refit if need to..

Thanks shayne for the pics.
 
My turbo came out and got replaced for no reason other than because i jumped the gun and that's exactly what i fear you will do .

Turbo failure on these is rare , in fact my profile says i've been a member of this forum since Feb 2013 and i can't recall any 90 series turbo failures .

Let me get this straight - i posted a random youtube vid showing the noise created by some guy who forgot to reconnect a sensor , that guy turned out to be you . You plugged the sensor in and noise reduced but the same noise continues at a lower volume . Is that correct ?
 
You didn't put all the heat shield bolts back in , one holds a metal bracket for your crankcase breather pipe and i suppose that could make a right old racket if it was tapping against the shield .
Also when i split that crank breather pipe it sounded like my turbo was about to explode but only when i reached max boost .
 
My EGR valve burnt out on last road trip. when I arrived home I welded a 3/4" socket to original nut the screwed in 3/4" plug. All good now. I can not tell any difference
 
Shayne said:
My turbo came out and got replaced for no reason other than because i jumped the gun and that's exactly what i fear you will do .

Turbo failure on these is rare , in fact my profile says i've been a member of this forum since Feb 2013 and i can't recall any 90 series turbo failures .

Let me get this straight - i posted a random youtube vid showing the noise created by some guy who forgot to reconnect a sensor , that guy turned out to be you . You plugged the sensor in and noise reduced but the same noise continues at a lower volume . Is that correct ?
Click to expand...
L
Not correct as never disconnected any sensors to my knowledge only the one by the egr valve that had to be unplugged and plugged back in.
The clip you showed sounded like what my car did but that noise turned out to be cos the turbo was getting no oil and was viberating but since i have connected the turbo pipe has gone a very lot quiet.
You are correct as i probably will make the wrong mistake with wrong symtoms hence all the questions relating to turbo boost sensor and its purpose.
 
Shayne said:
You didn't put all the heat shield bolts back in , one holds a metal bracket for your crankcase breather pipe and i suppose that could make a right old racket if it was tapping against the shield .
Also when i split that crank breather pipe it sounded like my turbo was about to explode but only when i reached max boost .
Click to expand...

Good point shayne as not sure now u mention it as will have to check that one tmw.
 
Shayne said:
You didn't put all the heat shield bolts back in , one holds a metal bracket for your crankcase breather pipe and i suppose that could make a right old racket if it was tapping against the shield .
Also when i split that crank breather pipe it sounded like my turbo was about to explode but only when i reached max boost .
Click to expand...

Is that the pipe that is held in by two screws into the head unit with black hose going downwards
 
Shayne said:
You didn't put all the heat shield bolts back in , one holds a metal bracket for your crankcase breather pipe and i suppose that could make a right old racket if it was tapping against the shield .
Also when i split that crank breather pipe it sounded like my turbo was about to explode but only when i reached max boost .
Click to expand...

One first page of this post in the picture with knickos hand by it what does that sensor do as i just unscrewed that as never unplugged it.
 
Yeah that's the one it ends down where your airbox pipe meets the engine , mine split at the bottom which you might not see unless you remove the pipe .

Nicko's gloved hand is holding a little filter that works with the pressure sensor which tells the pump how much fuel to add .
 
See those shiny double pipes in my removed turbo pic , they are the turbo's only oil feed . The big 2" pipe carries only air , it gets wet with oil because the crank breather vents into the air feed before the turbo , and it only does that "to save the planet"
 
Shayne said:
See those shiny double pipes in my removed turbo pic , they are the turbo's only oil feed . The big 2" pipe carries only air , it gets wet with oil because the crank breather vents into the air feed before the turbo , and it only does that "to save the planet"
Click to expand...

Well shayne as you guessed my turbo is fine and after a few day driving the turbo fan has gone quiet as getting full lubrcation now.

Strange question but what tool or tools did u use to remove the inlet manifold bolt that was hard to get to directly above the oil filter incase i need to remove in the near future as i struggled with a socket because of the oil filter position.
I am trying to build a collection of tools so i can do all my own work and cos im new to fixing cars just want a few tips on hand tools or spanners to use .
 
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