EGT Gauge Installation

[Ben Stratford]

Would like to install one in the 105. It seems that I first need to decide where the sensor should be mounted. Most kits seem to have a bung to be welded into the exhaust that the sensor probe is threaded into.
Is this the right thing or should the bung be installed in the exhaust manifold or somewhere else? If in the exhaust is ok, should it be as close to turbo exit as reasonably possible?
Any other tips or watchouts??
Thanks

 

[Lorin]

Just installed EGT in mine. Post turbo is a waste of time, needs to be pre-turbo in the manifold.

Best location for 1HDT shown here Best EGT probe location 1HDT - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] Will be much the same for 1HZ and FT.

 

[Towpack]

Mine is an Isspro I installed some years ago (1HD-FT). IIRC I had to buy a NPT taper tap to take the sensor mount. The manifold is plenty thick enough to take a threaded hole. As said, pre-turbo is the way to go. The hardest bit for me was deciding where to fit the guage.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Great advice guys, the manifold it is then. Will look at kits and seek advice from them for drill bit and tapered tap sizes.
I like the redarc dual egt / boost gauge but not sure it’s available in uk. May have to get one purchased in Oz then sent over.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Interesting reading this. Surely post turbo is safer if the sensor was to deteriorate and, your "normal temp" is your normal temp where ever the sensor positioned. One would then monitor drift from there?

 

[Ben Stratford]

I suppose then the difference in actual temp vs recorded temp can be theoretically estimated. But is the difference linear or some other pattern at different temperatures?
If the manifold is utilised then the temp offset should be much smaller due to proximity to combustion which sounds like a better and safer option.
So how likely is it that a probe would fail and potentially damage the turbo??

 

[Towpack]

Great advice guys, the manifold it is then. Will look at kits and seek advice from them for drill bit and tapered tap sizes.
I like the redarc dual egt / boost gauge but not sure it’s available in uk. May have to get one purchased in Oz then sent over.

I bought mine from a diesel specialist in Canada as the UK importers for Isspro didn't stock them.


The whole point of monitoring EGT's is to protect the pistons, as they are what will suffer it temps go too high, so on that basis you want the sender as close as possible to the exhaust ports on the cyl head. There will be a temperature drop across the turbo so figures will be lower when the sensor is mounted downstream. You can't fit the sensor after the turbo and, say, add 100 deg or 150 deg as the temperature drop will not be the same on different engines due to heat soak etc.

 

[Shayne]

Its a safety feature , wherever you put it you will soon learn the normal temperature you expect to see while daily driving and anything beyond that will grab your attention .

 

[Towpack]

On a standard, unmodified truck without any pump tweaks they're unnecessary IMO. After all, they came out of the factory without one. Changing boost and fuelling settings is where they become almost essential.

 

[Ben Stratford]

On a standard, unmodified truck without any pump tweaks they're unnecessary IMO. After all, they came out of the factory without one. Changing boost and fuelling settings is where they become almost essential.

That’s the thing here - a new engine + fuel pump and turbo and intercooler set up by a cruiser guru locally but I have no reference points except the is no black smoke. So need to find out air : fuel ratio and want to limit boost (probably to a max of about 10psi) to keep EGT’s very safe and learn which conditions cause peak EGT so I start to Automatically check the gauge at the right times. Once gauges installed then I think I will seek a dyno man to run it up and check it all out for positive confirmation and tweek anything if needed.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Ok so EGT gauge ordered from Australia but comes with a weld in fitting for exhaust. Will get a 1/8” 27 NPT tapered fitting to install in the manifold. Should I get a brass or stainless steel fitting??
The next thing to decide is where to set the alarm temperature?? So how hot is too hot for a 1HZ??

 

[Shayne]

Manifold is cast steel so I would assume without knowing that a stainless bung will weld easier as it can take more heat ?

The how hot prompts loads of long drawn out conversations on internet forums and somebody will inevitably say aluminum melts at X .

For me it prompts the question how hot is your manifold when your thermostat opens to cycle coolant .

I would love the factory temperature gauge to start flashing at 90 degrees because it should only reach that if your thermostat stuck or some other problem was present . So whats that maybe 8 degrees above normal .

 

[Towpack]

1250-1300F is for short bursts is OK but extended periods above 1200 are risky. These are the figures I came up with for the 1HDT/FT after much searching, I don't see why the 1HZ should be any different. I've kept mine down to 1200 when towing on long uphill pulls on the motorway and change down a gear if the temp starts to go higher.
Coolant temp cannot be relied on as an EGT indicator. EGT's are much more volatile than coolant temp and rise and fall much more rapidly. You could, potentially, suffer piston damage before the engine actually boils over.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Thanks guys. I can’t imaging ever getting to1000F as I don’t tow (yet, fishing boat creeping in the radar). So will initially set alarm at 500C / 932F and see how it goes.

 

[Shayne]

I was just pointing out how little difference there is between a typically warm engine and over heating .

My thinking is if you had one of those digital temperature gun gadgets you could detect when the stat opens and what temperature the egt gauge gives at that moment . Obviously the truck would have to be stationary to do this but it would at least give you a very definite idea of safe temperature before familiarizing yourself with how it fluctuates whilst driving .

 

[Towpack]

When I had my Tdi Disco it had no EGT, boost or oil pressure gauges and I towed with that to Scotland and back many times at full bore on the motorway with no issues and never gave a second thought to EGT or OP!

 

[Lorin]

Ben, I would suggest doing some research, especially on ih8mud in the diesel section. There is a lot of good data from people who’ve run 1HZ turbos reliably and those that have cooked them. Alternatively, seek some info from a company in Australia who offers turbos. You could try GTurbo.

1HZ turbos need to be managed carefully to keep them reliable - you should not use 1HDT/FT temps as a guide. 500C is definitely too low for an alarm, you’ll easily hit that just accelerating on the flat.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Ben, I would suggest doing some research, especially on ih8mud in the diesel section. There is a lot of good data from people who’ve run 1HZ turbos reliably and those that have cooked them. Alternatively, seek some info from a company in Australia who offers turbos. You could try GTurbo.

1HZ turbos need to be managed carefully to keep them reliable - you should not use 1HDT/FT temps as a guide. 500C is definitely too low for an alarm, you’ll easily hit that just accelerating on the flat.

Thanks Lorin. - more good advice. Let’s get the gauge in and see what it says while I keep investigating and researching. Will drive the 60 only for now. The previous owner wanted it set up really safe which I’m sure it is but I just want to confirm it with some facts.
While waiting for the gauge there’s a long list of niggles to wade through.
When it’s all sorted I don’t want to keep looking at gauges while driving, so the AFR needs to be right so the alarm hardly ever goes off.