- Joined
- Mar 14, 2016
- Messages
- 177
- Country Flag
Hey folks,
Wheels for the build are in motion now, not literally - she's parked up outside with a gash in the rear passenger quarter panel which you could fit your hand into... but figuratively - waiting on quote for the spray work.
Yesterday I found this when the wheels came off:
Truckasaurus - an 80 series living in London - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]
So what was supposed to be a "good dinitrol treatment" when I first got her (the person/entity won't be pointed at now), turns out to be a cover up job which scares the bejesus out of me - if the mechanic hasn't spotted this (when they spotted other welding needing doing in the same area), and the welder who did the seatbelt mounts hasn't spotted this, then who can I trust? What else is lurking under the black stuff?
So I'm going to get underneath the car and document everything so that when we do the welding this time around, we fix EVERYTHING.
BUT, how do I get under the Dinitrol that has been done?
Only solution I can come up with is to have it removed, and then go through the whole underside properly, do the work, then have it re-done... which leads to two questions:
1) how the hell do you remove a whole underbody of Dinitrol to check properly?
2) is Dinitrol really the right stuff to use in 2023? what about Buzzweld? what about Chris at BeforeNAfter (he's in the Land Rover Magazines)?
Anyone attempted this before?
or am I better off chipping away at common rust spots to see what happens, applying this liberally:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autoglym-Intensive-Tar-Remover/dp/B001I22LY2/ref=asc_df_B001I22LY2/
and then hoping for the best...
My shattered nerves... there I was driving around Spain with a huge bloody gash underneath!
Wheels for the build are in motion now, not literally - she's parked up outside with a gash in the rear passenger quarter panel which you could fit your hand into... but figuratively - waiting on quote for the spray work.
Yesterday I found this when the wheels came off:
Truckasaurus - an 80 series living in London - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]
So what was supposed to be a "good dinitrol treatment" when I first got her (the person/entity won't be pointed at now), turns out to be a cover up job which scares the bejesus out of me - if the mechanic hasn't spotted this (when they spotted other welding needing doing in the same area), and the welder who did the seatbelt mounts hasn't spotted this, then who can I trust? What else is lurking under the black stuff?
So I'm going to get underneath the car and document everything so that when we do the welding this time around, we fix EVERYTHING.
BUT, how do I get under the Dinitrol that has been done?
Only solution I can come up with is to have it removed, and then go through the whole underside properly, do the work, then have it re-done... which leads to two questions:
1) how the hell do you remove a whole underbody of Dinitrol to check properly?
2) is Dinitrol really the right stuff to use in 2023? what about Buzzweld? what about Chris at BeforeNAfter (he's in the Land Rover Magazines)?
Anyone attempted this before?
or am I better off chipping away at common rust spots to see what happens, applying this liberally:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Autoglym-Intensive-Tar-Remover/dp/B001I22LY2/ref=asc_df_B001I22LY2/
and then hoping for the best...
My shattered nerves... there I was driving around Spain with a huge bloody gash underneath!