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Help please with a brake fluid change
- Thread starter michael
- Start date
Thanks Gav or who ever moved it, I was reading through the faq section and thought my question sounded like it would go in there my thinking being a brake fluid change is basically the same on any landcruiser ? ,sorry for any confusion it was my first post I`m a little green so go easy with me. cheers mick
Ecky Thump
Well-Known Member
Where are you Mick?
My local Toyo dealer will do a complete flush for £60 which taking the fluid into account doesn't sound too bad to me.
My local Toyo dealer will do a complete flush for £60 which taking the fluid into account doesn't sound too bad to me.
Andrew Prince
Well-Known Member
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- Feb 23, 2010
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Mick,
I am no guru on the 90 but I would be surprised if flushing the brake fluid is much different to any other LC model.
Perhaps if you could give some pointers as to what tips you're after, you'd get more specific responses?
Basically the concept is you expel the old fluid from all the brake lines by bleeding off the fluid at the various "ends" of the lines. Logically you would start at the furthest point (usually the left rear on LCs -same for 90?). Crack open the bleed valve/nut, stick on an "eezi-bleed" (or some suitable tubing and a jar with enough clean fluid in to submerge the end of the tube - you want to avoid any air being drawn into the system). You'll need an assistant that can follow instructions - one of you will need to pump the brake pedal in a slow, orderly manner, while the other makes sure the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet is kept topped up with clean fluid - you do not want to let the master cylinder suck in air, or the bleeding process will become a right PITA. Keep pumping the pedal and topping up, while checking on the fluid being expelled until you see clean fluid start to come out (old fluid will be greeny-black). Repeat the process for the LSPV, right rear and 2 front corners - the process should be quicker as you go as you will be flushing a shorter length of brake-line each time.
Cheers,
I am no guru on the 90 but I would be surprised if flushing the brake fluid is much different to any other LC model.
Perhaps if you could give some pointers as to what tips you're after, you'd get more specific responses?
Basically the concept is you expel the old fluid from all the brake lines by bleeding off the fluid at the various "ends" of the lines. Logically you would start at the furthest point (usually the left rear on LCs -same for 90?). Crack open the bleed valve/nut, stick on an "eezi-bleed" (or some suitable tubing and a jar with enough clean fluid in to submerge the end of the tube - you want to avoid any air being drawn into the system). You'll need an assistant that can follow instructions - one of you will need to pump the brake pedal in a slow, orderly manner, while the other makes sure the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet is kept topped up with clean fluid - you do not want to let the master cylinder suck in air, or the bleeding process will become a right PITA. Keep pumping the pedal and topping up, while checking on the fluid being expelled until you see clean fluid start to come out (old fluid will be greeny-black). Repeat the process for the LSPV, right rear and 2 front corners - the process should be quicker as you go as you will be flushing a shorter length of brake-line each time.
Cheers,
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Andrew Prince
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- Feb 23, 2010
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- 2,232
Also try Kwik-fit if you're not going to do it yourself - they quoted me £20 last year some time for my wife's car. Don't know whether that included the fluid or not? Seems very cheap!Ecky Thump said:
Hello ,sorry for not displaying my location I`m in the castleford area west yorkshire I think my nearest toyo dealer is in wakefield ,but I do like to do things myself if I can , I`ve bled brakes before its just the max ellery manual is saying to empty the master cylinder and I didnt know if this would lead to more probs than its worth ,
Would bleeding all 4 wheels until the brake fluid runs clear be sufficient as the fluids not too bad but we`ve just got the cruiser and I like to renew -replace all fluids and give a service ,
I`ve purchased a new radiator after reading about the autobox oil cooler but cant get the bolts out of the bash plate underneath so it looks like drilling them out anyway I`m going off my original post now so thanks for any help .
cheers Mick
Would bleeding all 4 wheels until the brake fluid runs clear be sufficient as the fluids not too bad but we`ve just got the cruiser and I like to renew -replace all fluids and give a service ,
I`ve purchased a new radiator after reading about the autobox oil cooler but cant get the bolts out of the bash plate underneath so it looks like drilling them out anyway I`m going off my original post now so thanks for any help .
cheers Mick
Paul
Well-Known Member
I think the first thing to do is throw away the manual if it says to do that.
What might be worth doing is removing all the wheels and check over your brake and caliper condition is case there is any work to do there also and save you from doing the bleeding job twice. (and yes, that pun WAS intended
)
EDIT: Have you done an introduction yet, can help with the vehicle specific stuff.
What might be worth doing is removing all the wheels and check over your brake and caliper condition is case there is any work to do there also and save you from doing the bleeding job twice. (and yes, that pun WAS intended
)EDIT: Have you done an introduction yet, can help with the vehicle specific stuff.
I`m going to re-read the manual just to make sure I`ve read it right,as for checking all the brakes your spot on and I will I gave them a look over when I bought it and theres a new caliper on the back with new discs the front near side disc is slightly scored and I`ve noticed it is doing a bit of whistling now and then so I`ll be renewing the front discs and pads. I`ll have to check in the manual or if some one can educate me on the "LSPV" what andrew prince mentions to bleed.
can you tell its my first landcruiser
I`ll introduce myself too,nice pun aswell
can you tell its my first landcruiser
I`ll introduce myself too,nice pun aswell
Andrew Prince
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2010
- Messages
- 2,232
I assume the 90/95 has a LSPV too - assuming that's the case, it's the load-sensing proportional valve, which sits on the rear axle just next to the diffmichael said:
This little device adjusts for different loads on the rear (i.e. changes in height) and ensures even braking force between front and rear.Cheers,
On any older cruiser, whilst you are dabbling with the brakes, it is worth getting all of the pistons moving as they tend to stick. This can be quite common for some reason. Take the pad out of one side of one of the calipers. Turn it 90 degrees and stick it back in. This will block the lower piston. Then pump the pedal slowly. This will push the upper piston out against the disc. Then take that pad out and pump again to push the lower piston out. The do the same on the other two pistons, then move to the other wheel and do the same. You'll feel if any of them are sticking. They need a bit of a work out occasionally or they get lazy. Now, with all the bleed stuff connected, it can be worth pushing the pistons back in, fully whilst opening the bleed nipple. There is often a little dead zone in calipers where water and grott collects that normal bleeding doesn't shift. Pushing the piston out, then back in, collects this cruddy deposit and spurts it out when you bleed. You aren't supposed to push them back in with the nipple closed really. Some say it can damage the ABS - not on one of these, I don't believe, but what you don't want to do is push that s**t back round the system up into the master cylinder.
You don't have to do this, but I would strongly recommend pushing the pot out one by one to make sure they are free. Hand to have some red rubber grease handy to push under the dust boots too. NOT copper grease. That is the Devil's work.
Chris
You don't have to do this, but I would strongly recommend pushing the pot out one by one to make sure they are free. Hand to have some red rubber grease handy to push under the dust boots too. NOT copper grease. That is the Devil's work.
Chris
Thanks Chris,This is what is in the "max ellery manual"
BRAKE FLUID REPLACEMENT.
1. Thoroughly clean master cylinder and especially around wheel brake line connections
2.Disconnect wheel brake lines from master cylinder and remove reservoir cap
3.Allow master cylinder to drain until empty.
4.Fill master cylinder reservoir with new specified brake fluid,do not allow fluid level to drop below half full
5.Allow fluid to flow from open connection ports until fluid is free of air.Collect discharged fluid in suitable container then discard,do not allow fluid to contact paintwork.
6.Reconnect wheel brake lines to master cylinder and torque flare nut.
7.Drain brake callipers as follows
(a) Raise vehicle and place on stands
(b)Mark position of wheels to hub and remove wheels
(C)Loosen left hand front calliper bleed screw
(d)remove left hand calliper anchor plate retaining bolts
(e) Hold calliper upside down and remove bleed screw to drain contents of calliper into suitable receptacle
(f) Hand tighten bleed screw and install calliper assembly
(g) Torque anchor plate retaining bolts
8. Repeat step 7 for remaining calliper assemblies
9. Drain cylinders as follows:
Remove cylinder as described in "Drum brake -Wheel cylinder "section. Allow fluid to drain and install cylinder as previously described
10. Bleed brake system as previously described.
11. Install road wheel to original position.
Now I can just about follow this and half understand why as I suppose it is removing all the old fluid but it just seems a bit of overkill and a sure fire way of getting air in somewhere,
What do you think or 
ps. no mention of a LSPV Though Andrew, is the prado different as this manual is supposed to be for the prado
BRAKE FLUID REPLACEMENT.
1. Thoroughly clean master cylinder and especially around wheel brake line connections
2.Disconnect wheel brake lines from master cylinder and remove reservoir cap
3.Allow master cylinder to drain until empty.
4.Fill master cylinder reservoir with new specified brake fluid,do not allow fluid level to drop below half full
5.Allow fluid to flow from open connection ports until fluid is free of air.Collect discharged fluid in suitable container then discard,do not allow fluid to contact paintwork.
6.Reconnect wheel brake lines to master cylinder and torque flare nut.
7.Drain brake callipers as follows
(a) Raise vehicle and place on stands
(b)Mark position of wheels to hub and remove wheels
(C)Loosen left hand front calliper bleed screw
(d)remove left hand calliper anchor plate retaining bolts
(e) Hold calliper upside down and remove bleed screw to drain contents of calliper into suitable receptacle
(f) Hand tighten bleed screw and install calliper assembly
(g) Torque anchor plate retaining bolts
8. Repeat step 7 for remaining calliper assemblies
9. Drain cylinders as follows:
Remove cylinder as described in "Drum brake -Wheel cylinder "section. Allow fluid to drain and install cylinder as previously described
10. Bleed brake system as previously described.
11. Install road wheel to original position.
Now I can just about follow this and half understand why as I suppose it is removing all the old fluid but it just seems a bit of overkill and a sure fire way of getting air in somewhere,
What do you think
or ps. no mention of a LSPV Though Andrew, is the prado different as this manual is supposed to be for the prado
The advice Chris gives is spot on. And easy too. Per his suggrstion I did mine in the summer and had one sticking piston. Spent an age freeing up. Did the red rubber grease (get a small syringe to squirt the grease under the rubber boots). All working perfectly.
I plan on doing this pre and post winter from now on. Well worth it.
I plan on doing this pre and post winter from now on. Well worth it.
Hello Adrian
I am just about to order some of the grease but with having no drive or garage it is going to have to wait until the snow and frosts clear ,I can just about make the car out this morning, not with snow just overnight frost ,I have the glowplugs to do too when they arrive I think I`m going to have to call some favours in from friends with garages
I am just about to order some of the grease but with having no drive or garage it is going to have to wait until the snow and frosts clear ,I can just about make the car out this morning, not with snow just overnight frost ,I have the glowplugs to do too when they arrive I think I`m going to have to call some favours in from friends with garages
Sounds like you'll need the favours - I gave mine a service outside last night after i got back from a day out. Less snow here but still damn cold.
At least the engine etc was giving off a fair bit of heat having been running for about 7 hours.
Good luck with yours.
At least the engine etc was giving off a fair bit of heat having been running for about 7 hours.
Good luck with yours.
