Help please

[stonecutter]

Hi Guys, Long story short. My LC5 has all the warning lights on and the Speedometer no longer works.

I took it to my trusted garage which has looked after it well for the last 5 years.

Below is part of an email they sent me with regards to the issues.

ABS Pump/Module
Aisin-Japan
47210-60120
104201 4E08673

Error Codes Present - C1223 Fault in ABS control System
C0210 & C0215 Rear Sensor Signal Failure
C1210 & C1336 Zero Point Calibration Sensor Failure
Live data shows – ECU IG Power Voltage - to high

I was also told it could be the skid control module 89540-60230

They changed the Alternator and the rear ABS sensors, but the problem remains

Any help is gratefully received. Cheers

 

[karl2000]

Whats the long story?

 

[stonecutter]

The long story: I will try and keep it brief!

I got hit in the driver's side rear and suffered some minor body damage. The car was fine I used some Gaffa tape and taped up the rear wheel arch to stop it from flapping about.
I drove it for the next 200 miles over 2 weeks without any issues.
My insurance then sent a driver to take it to their recommended body shop, it was there for about 2 weeks.
The insurance company decided it was uneconomical to repair it, and offered me a take-it-off-my-hand's price and a buy-back price, neither of which was what I considered to be good.
I then spent a long time trying to find a replacement, I needed another petrol engine model as I am up in London a lot and didn't want to get hammered by the ULEZ.
Anyway, I decided as my car was in great condition apart from the body damage to buy it back.

I did not know until I tried to get my car returned that it had been taken from the insurer's body shop to a Copart depot for storage

When the car was delivered back to me on a tow truck the driver unloaded it for me.

I got in the car to park it on my drive and I noticed all the warning lights were on and the speedometer no longer worked.

I contacted my insurance company & Copart but they have been worse than useless.

So I took it to my garage in the hope that they could get it back on the asap. and that is the story so far Karl2000

 

[Tractionman]

With the codes and parts considered required, odd that your garage changed the alternator which wasn't mentioned and it "could" be the skid control module, guessers ?
All these are expensive parts as I'm sure you are aware, so further investigation needs doing as per the codes as far as possible, before going down the (expensive) parts changing route + labour.
Hope you can get a definitive result.

 

[stonecutter]

They changed the Alternator because they said it was overcharging

 

[karl2000]

Just to clarify, is it petrol or diesel? Most of us will assume diesel on here unless otherwise stated!

Did the garage admit to doing any other work on it, or are they saying it was broken as soon as they got it?

It left you, it was driving ok, when they looked at it, it was buggered?

If it was sitting for a few weeks, i wonder if they jump started it and fried something?

 

[karl2000]

They changed the Alternator because they said it was overcharging

But it wasnt overcharging when you had it?

Btw exactly what warning lights are on?

What year LC5 is it? When you say speedo doesnt work, is it just the speed or the revs or any/all of It?

 

[Tractionman]

Good point Karl, wrongly connected jump start = fried electrics = ecu = overcharging alternator.
I wonder what the alternator output was before swapped ?
Nothing proved as of yet though.
Rev counter normally goes hand in hand with all dash lights on, but not always.
Electrickery is witchcraft, no mention of magic smoke though.

 

[karl2000]

The magic smoke is waiting for Raj's EV

(Hopefully not!!!)

 

[Tractionman]

I hear they come supplied with a can of it, f.o.c.

 

[stonecutter]

The car was driving great before it was returned.
it is a petrol LC5 2004
Yes, my mechanic said he thinks they jumped it incorrectly, but can't prove it
the rev counter still works.
It is the ABS, VCSTRC, VCSOFF & ENGINE Lights
it still drives great despite all the issues!

 

[karl2000]

Have all the fuses been tested?

It’s worth noting that most (If not all) your lights might be for the same fault.

Are they all on as soon as you start the engine, or do they appear once it’s running? All at the same time or any delay?

Certainly if there is a check engine light, the VSC lights usually follow shortly after, because the traction system can’t guarantee reliability if there’s an engine fault code - so it basically switches the system off!

Have you got parking sensors?

Can you access live data on tech stream or similar? If so when you’re driving check the speed for the abs wheels sensor at each wheel and also the two speed sensors nt1 and nt2. See if any report zero.

 

[stonecutter]

Well, I assume my garage checked all the fuses, I hope

Yes, it does have parking sensors.

I will have to start it up again tomorrow to tell you the sequence of the lights on the start-up

No, I don't have a code reader so can't check anything.

Although I am a big fan of Landcruisers, this is the second one that I have had for 5 years, and before that, I had a Colorado for 11 years

I am no mechanic I just love driving them, and I have been lucky up till now, so I don't know much about them mechanically

 

[karl2000]

I wouldnt assume anything!

See if your parking sensors work!

 

[stonecutter]

Yes, the sensors work ok

 

[karl2000]

Ok! Reason for asking is rhey also use the speed sensor data. Youve probably already said (sorry) but what year is your car

 

[stonecutter]

2004 lc5 petrol 4ltr

 

[karl2000]

OK, just looked up those codes in a a bit more detail.

My guess:

- C1223 is probably on because of the other codes

- C0210 & C0215 - could be one half of the problem. We need the live data from the ABS wheel sensors, and the NT1 and NT2 speed sensors as mentioned above. Your mechanic will be able to get that.

- C1210 & C1336 - yaw sensor - could be the other half of the problem. Yaw sensor could be knackered, or it could just need calibrating. Your mechanic will want to follow the Toyota testing procedure (see attached) for this to try and see what the problem is - they might have done so already. Note this procedure also checks the Skid Control ECU as mentioned by your mechanic. Thankfully (from memory) that ECU is in an easy to access location, just under the glove box so doesn't require too much stripping to get to for testing / replacement. (on the diesels anyway!)

 

[karl2000]

2004... note there are slightly different procedures for cars before 08/2004 and after

 

[stonecutter]

Good morning Karl, first of all, thank you for taking the time to look into this for me.
When you put the key in and turn to the on position without turning on the engine, all the lights are on, then when started all the lights stay on.

I think all the info you sent me may be above my garage's pay grade and tbh it's certainly above mine!

Can you recommend any Toyota specialists who could look into solving the problems without costing the earth?
As much as I love my Cruiser there has got to be a cut-off point.

I will send the info you have posted to my garage and see if it makes any sense to them. fingers crossed!

Thanks again Karl