Glad you walked away from that, Tony!!
If threads are rusty you twist the stud rather than stretch it. It,s difficult to overtighten if you use the supplied wrench.
Here's the manufacturer's guide:I.... IMO I say follow the manufacturer's guide.....
I see both sides of the grease/no grease comments and there very valid thoughts behind them all however, IMO I say follow the manufacturer's guide. Let me throw this in the mix and I will use Clive's example which makes very good sense.
What if the manufacture decides that 25ft/lb is needed for 'x' bolt to clamp a wheel on, and research shows that 30ft/lb on clean DRY threads will (after losing some torque to thread resistance) leave the correct 25ft/lb.
This now means with WET (enter lube choice here) the wheel is exposed to a greater clamping force, now at 30ft/lb and beyond manufactuers spec. No science behind this guy's just a little deeper thought.
Regards
Dave
Here's the manufacturer's guide:
View attachment 124901
This page is from the Owner's Manual. They say never to grease.
I have experienced over the years that lack of grease/oil on the studs lead to corrosion. This necessitates cleaning the threads from time to time in order to get the nut to contact the wheel at all at the prescribed torque. This links in with Frank's comment.
I have always lubricated the studs (and mating surfaces) with ceramic grease, and tightened to 130 Nm and never sheared a stud, or destroyed a nut. If I tighten to 130, then after a couple of miles driving, 4 of 5 nuts are too loose. After retightening, and driving another few tens of miles, again a few nuts will move a bit at 130 Nm.
So, I always recheck torque 2 times, and if changing at a tyre place (when new tyres), I ask them to leave them at the loose side, and I bring along my own torque wrench.
Good discussion though, now I need to take stock and decide whether to change my wayward ways...
130 Nm is for alloys on the 100, with 14 mm studs, as opposed to the 12 mm of the 60, 80, 90, etc series.130nm must be for steel wheels 'cos it's 103nm (76lb/ft) for alloys which can be exceeded relatively easily even with the standard brace. When I eventually started using a torque wrench after shearing 2 studs I reckon I must've been torquing the alloys up to well over over 100lb/ft in times past. They are certainly much easier to remove now they're correctly torqued up! I use anti seize compound on the studs (copper slip) not bearing grease, there is a difference.