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Iwan's lc5

Yo tony! Good to hear from you... It's a bit of a needle in a hay stack this one! ,,, but from sitting in it this afternoon must say it's the most comfortable cruiser I've sat in!!

Mot on the 81 tomorrow morning which I've been doin the known issues for the past while replaced the zip tied on rear brake bias valve with a omp screw type bias valve.... best brakes I've every had on it now!!

Speak soon man.. :thumbup:
 
If you follow (by colour) the wires from the T9 connector can you see where they run to on the ECU? All you need to prove is low resistance on those wires end to end...

I seem to remember there were a couple of different ECU plugs from my unfortunate research on ECUs !!
 
karl2000 said:
Isnt rhat E10 connector from the engine ecu side?
Click to expand...
Well had a good going through both of the end connectors and looking back at some pics of the earlier 1kzte/2lte ecus the earlier 16 bit tech they are def 3 rows I think they were.. edit just found a 2lte mt and 1kzte mt ecu's and they are 2 rows. Maybe the 3 row is for the upto 08/04 which back then was their super new tech. Wouldn't be surprised that all the kzj120's remained on the old 16 bit ecus and wiring. Just before was looking through the fsm new features and (I think or gather) they progressed to the 32 bit ecu from that point.08'04.. hence the 4 pin deep sockets.

From converting 2lte based cruisers to manual fueling the ecu connector wiring comprise of 3 connectors a 26 pin from the engine side and the pair 16 pin + 12 pin which come from the body side... it was relatively easy to trace the wires in the bodyside and connect to the appropriate engine side wire in the loom and then disregard the ecu. From an ecm pinout chart.

From today I think/believe that e10 then e9 are from the body side and e12 and e13 are the ones coming through the bulkhead the wiring loom is above.. when the ecu is in position e13 is at the top and e10 is low down where the wiring loom from the body is shaped to comfortably curve round and clip in. This is with the connector clips facing to the driverside on a rhd truck.

I've learned abit today and starting to get some understanding with it. But a fair way from fixing it! lol

karl2000 said:
If you follow (by colour) the wires from the T9 connector can you see where they run to on the ECU? All you need to prove is low resistance on those wires end to end...

I seem to remember there were a couple of different ECU plugs from my unfortunate research on ECUs !!
Click to expand...
So on t9 6 is black and red 7 is white and red, had difficulty in locating them in e10 but found a black orange on e10 14 with a reading .920 but when went for t9 to e10 21?? no wire there! Then I noticed the 3 pin high plug and the 4 pin plug...

I'm guessing the .920 reading if the correct wire is where the problem is.... but where the f! is the other wire located??? Lol
 
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Hmm.. have a look over on the right hand side of this one - this one might apply to your ECU. (My ECU has got 4 rows on the pins as well!)

This one seems to say that T9 pin 7 goes to E15(29) and pin 6 goes to E15(30)

Does that look feasible from what you can see?

Also worth checking the resistance on that ground on T9 pin 14 while you're there.

What is that .920 reading? Is that 0.9 ohms?
 

Attachments

Note in that diagram the wires seen to be Blue/Red (L-R) and White/Red (W-R) - but who knows if thats reality....
 
Also if you have a look at the file '1477 HOW TO PROCEED...' its first check is to check the 'Unlock Switch'. There is a data value you should see on techstream and it should change when you put the key in and out. More details are in '1484 B2780' file
 
Screenshot (80).png


I was looking at this before light blue red stripe.. must be a difference in model. t9 7 to 21 meant to be black red stripe iirc.
 
karl2000 said:
This one seems to say that T9 pin 7 goes to E15(29) and pin 6 goes to E15(30)
Click to expand...

So sounding a bit more modern model so I think I need to get hold of the later ecu pinout... but these will be on the lower side of the ecu and of course on the body side of the wiring.. shame it's not so late as I'd pop out and have a look!!
 
A little bit of ecu blurb..


Screenshot (81).png


This is the 3 row ecu of a 2002 d4d Colorado with what looks like the e10 socket on the rhs..


Screenshot (84).png


This is the 120 ecu upto 08 2004 3 rows of pins and plug style as the colorado... e10 socket at the bottom... so if you're buying a donor truck for the electrics be aware that the earliest 120's electrics will not be compatible with the mid to later ones.

Found a 1kzte ecu with same 2 row and plug configuration as the kzj70. a bit of history of the prado ecu development.
 
I'm getting somewhere now..

Screenshot (85).png


I have the correct ecu pinout chart.. but in the locations in green it's in complete as to all of the locations. But will re read the info above..

Have the ecu here and it's correct with the diagram.

I'm trying to add this pdf to this post.... but not finding the way to do it!
 
karl2000 said:
Hmm.. have a look over on the right hand side of this one - this one might apply to your ECU. (My ECU has got 4 rows on the pins as well!)

This one seems to say that T9 pin 7 goes to E15(29) and pin 6 goes to E15(30)

Does that look feasible from what you can see?

Also worth checking the resistance on that ground on T9 pin 14 while you're there.
Click to expand...
So have great continuity t9 7 blue red to E6 29 also t9 6 white red to E6 30, t9 14 to ground is good too.. the locations are from the pin side of the plugs, was checking from the wire side which is like looking in a mirror!

Am going to check the key amplifier next...
 
Well well found a fault!

I'm working off 1482 key amplifier I13 pin 7 no continuity therefore no grounding in the circuit!!! But if t9 is not connected then it wount power up or earth! False alarm!!

Screenshot (86).png


I have kept track with this of what I've checked so far! And following 1482. All of the wires that have continuity have the blue line across them t9 10 and 14 is correct.

Screenshot (88).png


Blue dots are the ones checked... t9 1 to t9 14 should be a constant power and there isn't any power in this wire.. a fault...
t9 2 to t9 14 has 11.6v so is correct.
t9 10 is working with the key in cylinder and out... and with the voltage check batteries connected. blue tick.
This is where it got interesting.. I thought I would turn the ignition off, take the key out and close the door.... for the first time the security light was flashing! WTF never seen that before!!!! So jumped in and turned the key, it fired up revved up to 2000rpm for 4 seconds and stopped! Did this twice then back to it's old tricks crank nothing and no security light!

Screenshot (87).png


I think I'm going to recheck t9 1 and see where it's constant power source originates???? --- white red power line B ecu b 10 amp fuse in the fuse box under the bonnet!!! FFS!

Getting there though, pretty pleased for far!
 
Great - I'm following along! :-)

I'd be tempted to jerry rig 12V onto pin 1 and see if thats the problem! Looks like that wire goes through a couple of junction boxes, so plenty of scope for a fault there....
 
Hiya Karl.. Yes it's looking promising.. there's ECU B and ECU B. no2 10a fuses in the under bonnet fuse box. Coincidentally both fuses are fine.. The power side of the fuse is to the rear and the outlet of the fuse is towards the front of the truck.. Hard to ascertain whether which fuse goes to T9 1.

In the passenger footwell there's the junction where the under bonnet loom junctions into the in body loom. sat in a blue molded plastic holder ... so there's 2 wires to check continuity on which will reveal whether it's which ecu b fuse it is and most importantly either which wire or the connection is at fault..

This process has 1- identified the area or cause, 2- has tested and eliminated other wires and connections with the immo system.. 3 given hope in solving the problem!

Looking back it now makes perfect sense that of course you wouldn't have the security light flashing when the ignition is off as there is no constant power feeding t9.. ie there's no feed to power the security light!

So the ecu b fuse location hold the voltage of the battery 12.59 atm so have thought to use thin wire off the battery with a 10 amp fuse.. also think to open up the under bonnet fuse box just in case theres a mouse nest in there!

Had to cut off from this later this afternoon but am planning to get back on it tomorow morning so will add to this then...

Much thanks for the help and direction with this Karl... :thumbup:
 
Brilliant - keep going!! Good idea to run a wire from the battery to pin 1 - at least then you'll prove its the problem!
 
karl2000 said:
Brilliant - keep going!! Good idea to run a wire from the battery to pin 1 - at least then you'll prove its the problem!
Click to expand...

Well connected the wire and can smell slight electrical burning inside the cabin! Opened up the t9 immo ecu no smell inside there..

So all disconnected now and attempting to find the other end of t9 1 inside the n/s kick panel.. Problem with the loom...
 
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