Keyless entry options?

[GuyB]

For anybody else who finds their drivers door key only goes halfway in, I just pulled both lock cylinders and cleaned/regreased. Now working great.

Very straightforward as long as don’t let the pins spring out when removing the cylinder from the barrel. Keep key in while removing it then clean them one at a time.

Still planning to fit keyless entry kit but at least can lock the 80 now.

Dave.

Good shout Dave, thats an investment of time you needed to make anyway, before fitting a keyless kit... one thing being unable to lock, quite another if your fob fails with you locked out, and not to have the back-up of the key!

Don’t be put off by all the wires - most of them aren’t used. You’ll need power in/out and lock/unlock (some kits have input/output for each. The remaining wires are things like: indicator flash, horn pip, alarm disarm and usually an auxiliary or two.

I’ll get mine fitted up and post a walk-through when I get a spare couple of hours.

 

[Knucklehead]

Cheers, any pics appreciated.

From what I’ve seen I think it is an electrical install even I could manage.

Regarding servicing the lock barrels, not something I would ever thought of doing unless forced but makes hell of a difference. Real easy job just make sure to keep the spring loaded keys in place until you want them out. They escape uncontrolled and it’s new lock time.

Dave.

 

[Richard Turner]

It's here at last.

Quality is suprisingly good. I was expecting hand soldering and hot glue gun but it is machine made.

The keyfobs feel nice and there is a blue led to show they are working.

I will try and install it later.

 

[Knucklehead]

If you can manage to take some pics that would be great. Noticed the control module on the drivers door when removing the door locks. Seems in a easily accessible place for connections.

 

[Richard Turner]

A guide to fitting cheap ebay remote locking,

Remove all the wires from the harness you dont need by pushing the little tabs down and pulling out.

Cut the sleeving from the harness to the door control carefully so you can re use it.

Mount the remote ecu in which way you want. I used an old Toyota control box bracket and some oem screws from a scrap MR2. There is a free bracket mount on the side of the door control relay. Make sure you mount the interior side of the moisture sheet and away from the window mechanism.

The pin numbers are on the back of the plug very small also in the plug socket of the door lock control relay.

Black, yellow, yellow with black wires are connected to the white with black earth wire PIN 16 (the door itself isn't a good earth)

White with black connect to solid blue PIN 11 unlock.

Solid white connects to blue with black PIN 10 lock.

Red connects to solid blue PIN 8 permanant live.

Do up your heatshrinks if using them and tape the wires up.

Tape the shrouding back on, plug in, make sure the window switches are plugged in. Flick the door latch shut with a screwdriver (so its like the door is shut without the risk of it getting stuck closed)

Test. Succeed. Drink celebratory Heinekin. Dont forget to unlatch the door by pulling the handle before slamming it shut!

Seems to have a good range on the keyfobs. I didnt bother with all the indicator flash wiring. Keep the cables you leave off though as if you want to program more fobs you need to follow a sequence from the indicator flashes. You could probably just listen to the relays click though. The 2 remotes included work straight away but you can program up to 4. I dont know if you can have 2 remote boxes working from the same fob (eg if I put one in the boot and used it to power up a light bar via the boot release switch) as they use a rolling code. I will get one and try.

 

[Knucklehead]

Cheers Richard, really appreciate the effort with the photos. Think even I can handle this now.

Dave.

 

[GuyB]

Well, I'm stumped.

I opted for a Viper kit (around £80) because it has lots of nice features I like an inbuilt dome light supervision relay, lock/unlock with ignition, and a couple of programmable auxiliaries for things like open/close windows or honk the horn when I forget where I parked - plus the standard stuff like light/indicator flash.

Owing to the functionality I want, it makes sense to locate I tried with the lock/unlock wires in the driver's kick panel. I found the lock/unlock wires and connected them up... success!

That was until I closed the door. Once the door switch is pressed, the door won't unlock with the fob, grrrr! I did some digging and found a write-up where another member had the same problem (apparently there are two lock wires and you need to connect them both, but using diodes. I did this in various combinations and even managed to set off the alarm half a dozen times. I eventually gave up, deciding to bite the bullet and run wires through the door grommets.

So, door card off - connected up to pins 10 and 11, as now corroborated by Richard, above, and got the exact same result. Aaaagghh!!!!

Any ideas?! I fitted a cheap e-bay kit to my last 80 with no problem at all - exact same approach. Only difference is I've spent 10 x the cash on the kit this time

 

[GuyB]

Update... the problem appears to be the dome light supervision. I had it connected to the driver's door switch, which seemed like an easy solution, but the system doesn't like it.

Well at least I can lock and unlock the doors now - but I'm dead set on getting the dome light relay working!

 

[GuyB]

Update 2... got it working by wiring the dome light supervision relay to the passenger door switch instead of the driver's. Annoying workaround but it works. Obviously the failsafe that prevents you from locking your keys in the car is triggered by the driver's door switch, and I couldn't work out how to bypass it!