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Lanoguard

toolsplus

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While the 120's on a car lift I jetwashed the underside,just a bit of surface rust so I'm thinking of applying Lanoguard.
Any thoughts on this product?
Cheers
 
It gets mixed reviews on yootewb and I've not actually used it but I reckon it's a better option than other wax based products. I like the idea it's transparent so you can see what's underneath. I'd treat any surface rust with Aquasteel, then coat with Lanoguard or motorcycle chain lube.
 
Worked well for me but only been on since spring. Easy to apply, not messy, dries clear and cures dry/hard after a week or so. I did use some aquasteel on areas with surface rust first
 
I did my 150 the day I bought it outside the chassis, used Dinitrol cavity wax in the chassis. And done it every 6 months since. Hard to say how good it is since the car is only 2 years old and I don't think even Land Cruisers rust that quickly. I would say you learn which bits it doesn't last on. For example outside the chassis legs in the rear wheel arches I noticed when I did it last month had no protection still on them. Where that happens I brush on Lanoguard grease which then is a thicker layer. It's very easy to apply, but I'd say you may well need to do it twice a year. It also takes a lot longer to dry than I can do without the car. I start using the car 24 hours after application and a lot of dust sticks to it. I don't think that affects how it works, it just looks dirty, but hey, it's underneath. I do about 15,000 miles a year and I'm off road every day round a farm so the underside does take a beating.
 
I've wasted many hours of thought and research on the whole rust protection affair and on bored reflection realized all questions are rhetorical .

Fact is everything helps and nothing is permanent , old engine oil does the job but will eventually wash off and lanoguard/Krown etc are a more environmentally accepted version of that .

The aim is to delay decay and a product that hides nothing and can be topped up on with little prep is a winner for me .
 
Just applied Lanoguard to my 150 today.
I spent a lot of time knocking off and removing crusty flakes of rust first-filthy horrible job last week. However, I found two small areas on the rear spring mounts which required welding. Luckily found a local guy who came highly recommended to sort these for me yesterday and they look better than ever and probably stronger too. Whilst it was up on the lift we had a proper look at the rest of the chassis, which was sound.
As an aside, his previous client was a Nivarra which he reckoned was virtually broken in two-he reckoned mine was ‘mint’ in comparison!
I used Jenolite rust convertor first (probably not necessary but turns it a nice black colour) and then the Lanoguard over the top. I used a lot of the grease on the worst areas and sprayed over the everything. I also had the injector wand and liberally sprayed inside all of the box sections.
I must have used 3/4 each of the grease and liquid-maybe over the top but on a hot day like today it spread really well and covered everything. I’m away on holiday so it won’t be driven for a fortnight which should give plenty of time for it to cure without picking up road dust and debris.
 
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There are recognised tests for corrosion prevention products, salt spray tests. People like Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber have done these and publish the results. The makers of Lanoguatd say they wont do the tests as they’re not relevant to underbody car protection, even though the tests are basically how many hours protection a product gives with constant salt spray at slightly elevated temperatures. The tests aren’t particularly expensive, so I’m suspicous of why they don’t do the tests and publish the results to show how good the product is.
 
That sort of contradicts their sales pitch which quotes it's use on runway de-icer and gritter lorries and is "jet wash, heat, saltwater, and petrol resistant". In and around the wheel arch area of any vehicle is a very harsh environment, especially on wet, salty Winter roads and will erode any but the toughest of treatments but Lanoguard is so easy to apply that keeping it topped up requires minimal effort and that is a huge plus in it's favour IMO.
 
How long does it take to dry?
I'm doing it on Sunday...
 
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18 years! I don't think mine was that good at 7 years. And there lies the difference between Portugal and South Wales.
 
Looks similar finish to Krown. Was it messy?
 
Not messy at all mate,it dries out in a couple of days to a candle wax like finish,looks good and you can see through it to keep an eye on things...
 
What prep did you do before hand? Just a good clean or did you wire brush everything?
 
An observation after 30 months of using Lanoguard on a new 150.
I live in South Wales, and it rains. A lot. I also drive at least 2-3 miles a day on muddy / rocky tracks with big puddles. And about 15000 miles a year on the road.

I find the spray mostly washes / wears off within 6 months. And probably closer to 3 months. The grease is better, but not perfect. I reapplied spray at the end of May. I noticed at the time there was definitely no product left on the outside of the chassis legs visible in the wheel arches. I know the plate where the drop links mount is a particular risk, so I painted grease on as much of the chassis leg as I could at that time.

Jet washed this weekend and I'd say I have around 30% of chassis leg back to clean, shiny paint. Which is nice to see that it isn't rusty - but only 30 months old so I'd hope not. But means all the grease has gone. That's a little over 4 months. There is still plenty on the rest of the leg so I'm guessing it's where the wheel is throwing the most water.

I've sprayed the whole back half of the chassis again, and will do a second time tomorrow so it effectively gets two coats. It's a miserable job to be doing in January so I'm hoping to get another 4-5 months out of it. But it's not great. Think I will be trying something else next year - Bilt Hamber Dynax gets favourable comments. Lanoguard might adhere better to rusty surfaces, or it might not. I've been using it on my Jimny too, but that does far fewer miles so I think is difficult to compare.

To Shane's earlier point, anything is better than nothing, but I don't think this is the anything I will keep going with.
 
YYY
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