Lanoguard

[Shayne]

Rubber legs CRP05BLK | Chlorvar chlorinated rubber paint - 5ltr - black - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Dave]

An observation after 30 months of using Lanoguard on a new 150.
I live in South Wales, and it rains. A lot. I also drive at least 2-3 miles a day on muddy / rocky tracks with big puddles. And about 15000 miles a year on the road.

I find the spray mostly washes / wears off within 6 months. And probably closer to 3 months. The grease is better, but not perfect. I reapplied spray at the end of May. I noticed at the time there was definitely no product left on the outside of the chassis legs visible in the wheel arches. I know the plate where the drop links mount is a particular risk, so I painted grease on as much of the chassis leg as I could at that time.

Jet washed this weekend and I'd say I have around 30% of chassis leg back to clean, shiny paint. Which is nice to see that it isn't rusty - but only 30 months old so I'd hope not. But means all the grease has gone. That's a little over 4 months. There is still plenty on the rest of the leg so I'm guessing it's where the wheel is throwing the most water.

I've sprayed the whole back half of the chassis again, and will do a second time tomorrow so it effectively gets two coats. It's a miserable job to be doing in January so I'm hoping to get another 4-5 months out of it. But it's not great. Think I will be trying something else next year - Bilt Hamber Dynax gets favourable comments. Lanoguard might adhere better to rusty surfaces, or it might not. I've been using it on my Jimny too, but that does far fewer miles so I think is difficult to compare.

To Shane's earlier point, anything is better than nothing, but I don't think this is the anything I will keep going with.

The Dinitrol ML I coated my Jimny with 3 years ago is still there. The high wear areas I went over the ML with Dinitrol 77B wax. It doesnt get used a great deal, but all the product is still there. My berlingo van was done not very well by me 4 years ago (at 3 years old) with ML, and most of that is still in place except a couple of high wear areas.

 

[Jez676]

I used Buzzweld products on my old Jeep and it stayed on for 3 years until I sold it. There was no rust through and it didn’t need recoating.
I’ve just done the same to my 80….

 

[MikeJak]

I've used Lanoguard for a couple of years on my 90 series, it's a good product, much bettter then any petrol/oil/tar based ones -hate that stuff- it is also kind to bushes and doesn't make working on the vehicle an absolute nightmare.
I find that if you drive offroad quite a bit the soft and tacky nature of lanoguard is quite annoying as it tends to incorporate sand and mud.
this year I wased away the lanoguard with their cleaner (came off really well btw) and I decided to use the Buzzweld chassis guard (Chassis Guard Lanolin Oil Underbody 500ML Hand Sprayer - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]) a lot cheaper then lanoguard and uses a different carrier (I beieve it is boiled linseed oil mized with lanolin oil) and it's very good. it cures clear and very low tack. it keeps the water repellency for longer then lanoguard. it is clearer and slighly shiny/wet looking when cured.
biled linseed oil has been used for a long time to protect raw metal and patina on rat rods so makes good sense to use it for the underside.
it's quick to apply just like lanoguard, I used an HVLP spray gun but a sprayer may even work better and sprayed it in the chassis too.
I expect it to wear off similarly to lanoguard. but half the price and not as tacky sound very good to me.

 

[thelal]

An observation after 30 months of using Lanoguard on a new 150.
I live in South Wales, and it rains. A lot. I also drive at least 2-3 miles a day on muddy / rocky tracks with big puddles. And about 15000 miles a year on the road.

I find the spray mostly washes / wears off within 6 months. And probably closer to 3 months. The grease is better, but not perfect. I reapplied spray at the end of May. I noticed at the time there was definitely no product left on the outside of the chassis legs visible in the wheel arches. I know the plate where the drop links mount is a particular risk, so I painted grease on as much of the chassis leg as I could at that time.

Jet washed this weekend and I'd say I have around 30% of chassis leg back to clean, shiny paint. Which is nice to see that it isn't rusty - but only 30 months old so I'd hope not. But means all the grease has gone. That's a little over 4 months. There is still plenty on the rest of the leg so I'm guessing it's where the wheel is throwing the most water.

I've sprayed the whole back half of the chassis again, and will do a second time tomorrow so it effectively gets two coats. It's a miserable job to be doing in January so I'm hoping to get another 4-5 months out of it. But it's not great. Think I will be trying something else next year - Bilt Hamber Dynax gets favourable comments. Lanoguard might adhere better to rusty surfaces, or it might not. I've been using it on my Jimny too, but that does far fewer miles so I think is difficult to compare.

To Shane's earlier point, anything is better than nothing, but I don't think this is the anything I will keep going with.

good to get some real world experince