Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
That's the supplement Ben. You may well need the basic electrical manual, ref.EWD168F dated Aug., 1992
Roger
Roger
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
Rob said:
I'm up for a pair of those. How do you want to play it?
Roger
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Roger Fairclough said:
are these manuals available from toyota? any idea of price?
Roger Fairclough said:
ive sent Rob the money, and hes very kindly ordering mine for me. might be worth sending him a PM and asking him nicely if hed mind ordering 2 sets. he said he was hoping to call them tomorrow.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
Ben.
The complete set of manuals consist off the following:-
"Repair manual for chassis and body ref. RM183E". It's dated Jan., 1990 and covers RJ7 series, LJ7 series, FJ7 series, PZJ7 series and HZJ7 series.
Supplement to above dated August 1992 ref.RM315E. This covers RJ7 series,LJ7 series FZJ7, 80 series PZJ 7 series HZJ7, 80 series and HDJ 80 series.
Supplement to above dated May 1993 ref.RM346E.This covers RJ7 series, LJ7 series and KZJ7 series.
Engine manual for 1KZ-T dated May 1993 ref.RM353E.
Electrical manual, dated August 1992 ref.EWD168F. This covers FZj7 series, HZJ7 series,PZJ7 series,LJ7 series and RJ7 series.
Supplement to above dated May 1993 ref.EWD176F. This covers KZJ7series, LJ& series and RJ7 series.
When I bought the car, some 14 years ago, I did a deal with the Toyota garage that sold it that they would supply all the manuals at cost less 50%. Toyota GB sent the wrong books, so I did a deal with them that they paid the other 50%. At the time the complete set retailed at about £150.
Roger
The complete set of manuals consist off the following:-
"Repair manual for chassis and body ref. RM183E". It's dated Jan., 1990 and covers RJ7 series, LJ7 series, FJ7 series, PZJ7 series and HZJ7 series.
Supplement to above dated August 1992 ref.RM315E. This covers RJ7 series,LJ7 series FZJ7, 80 series PZJ 7 series HZJ7, 80 series and HDJ 80 series.
Supplement to above dated May 1993 ref.RM346E.This covers RJ7 series, LJ7 series and KZJ7 series.
Engine manual for 1KZ-T dated May 1993 ref.RM353E.
Electrical manual, dated August 1992 ref.EWD168F. This covers FZj7 series, HZJ7 series,PZJ7 series,LJ7 series and RJ7 series.
Supplement to above dated May 1993 ref.EWD176F. This covers KZJ7series, LJ& series and RJ7 series.
When I bought the car, some 14 years ago, I did a deal with the Toyota garage that sold it that they would supply all the manuals at cost less 50%. Toyota GB sent the wrong books, so I did a deal with them that they paid the other 50%. At the time the complete set retailed at about £150.
Roger
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
thanks Roger, i will make some enquires and see if i can buy them all.
did a bit more on my truck today. first job was an oil change, on the new engine.
£20 worth of home bargains oil and filters from milners.
next job was trying to get this bloody X-ENG brake working properly.
so i took the prop, calliper, and disc back off.
on closer inspection of the disc, the side that has been catching is a bit scratched.
the other side is showing signs of getting quite hot, which is surprising, because ive maybe done 60miles with the brake fitted, and most of that has been the 1.5mile drive to and from work everyday.
i cleaned the surface the disc mounts to, to rule out that being the cause of the problem.
put it all back together and there was no improvement.
so next i decided to try and move the calliper over slightly so that the disc is no longer constantly catching on the disc. i had a look at the available washers, but they were all too thick, so...........................
i used a hole saw to drill 2 holes in some 1mm steel.
and cut them out with tin snips.
i then slid them between the blue spacers and the calliper mounting bracket to move the calliper over.
this did improve things, but the disc is definitely slightly out of true, because now when i turn the prop, the disc only catches on the pads at one point.
i also noticed that when the brake is applied, the whole calliper seems to move and twist slightly. i adjusted it to where i thought it needed to be, but upon getting home i realised that it needs more adjustment as it wouldnt hold the truck on the drive.
not sure when my new rear lights will be here, and not wanting to get pulled over by plod, decided to do a temporary repair on the damaged light.
decided to use Polyroof, which is basically very expensive fibre-glassing.
will sand it down tomorrow and then give it a coat of red enamel paint.
also got a few more electrical things connected up using the new manual.
Roger, when should the heated fuel filter be on. is it on all the time the ignition is switched on, or is it just when it detects its cold, a bit like the glow plugs?
i managed to find a round connector on my original loom that fits the connector coming from the fuel heater, so i connected it up, the only problem is its got a permant live, even when the ignition is off. i managed to connect up the other connector that also goes to the heated fuel filter, and i tested this by testing it was live with the ignition on, and then removing the fuse and checking it no longer had power.
the heated fuel filter was definitely working with everything connected, as it felt quite hot. the only issue is, it was still heating it with the ignition off and key removed. surely the fuel heater isnt on when the ignition is turned off?
did a bit more on my truck today. first job was an oil change, on the new engine.
£20 worth of home bargains oil and filters from milners.
next job was trying to get this bloody X-ENG brake working properly.
so i took the prop, calliper, and disc back off.
on closer inspection of the disc, the side that has been catching is a bit scratched.
the other side is showing signs of getting quite hot, which is surprising, because ive maybe done 60miles with the brake fitted, and most of that has been the 1.5mile drive to and from work everyday.
i cleaned the surface the disc mounts to, to rule out that being the cause of the problem.
put it all back together and there was no improvement.
so next i decided to try and move the calliper over slightly so that the disc is no longer constantly catching on the disc. i had a look at the available washers, but they were all too thick, so...........................
i used a hole saw to drill 2 holes in some 1mm steel.
and cut them out with tin snips.
i then slid them between the blue spacers and the calliper mounting bracket to move the calliper over.
this did improve things, but the disc is definitely slightly out of true, because now when i turn the prop, the disc only catches on the pads at one point.
i also noticed that when the brake is applied, the whole calliper seems to move and twist slightly. i adjusted it to where i thought it needed to be, but upon getting home i realised that it needs more adjustment as it wouldnt hold the truck on the drive.
not sure when my new rear lights will be here, and not wanting to get pulled over by plod, decided to do a temporary repair on the damaged light.
decided to use Polyroof, which is basically very expensive fibre-glassing.
will sand it down tomorrow and then give it a coat of red enamel paint.
also got a few more electrical things connected up using the new manual.
Roger, when should the heated fuel filter be on. is it on all the time the ignition is switched on, or is it just when it detects its cold, a bit like the glow plugs?
i managed to find a round connector on my original loom that fits the connector coming from the fuel heater, so i connected it up, the only problem is its got a permant live, even when the ignition is off. i managed to connect up the other connector that also goes to the heated fuel filter, and i tested this by testing it was live with the ignition on, and then removing the fuse and checking it no longer had power.
the heated fuel filter was definitely working with everything connected, as it felt quite hot. the only issue is, it was still heating it with the ignition off and key removed. surely the fuel heater isnt on when the ignition is turned off?
Don't like the adverts? Click here to remove them
AndyCook
Well-Known Member
Hi Ben
the heated fuel filter housing on my 4runner was activated by a vacuum switch. So idea being if fuel froze or sludged up it would great a vacuum and switch would activate and turn on heater and hopefully de-wax the cold diesel.
I ran veg oil so i fitted a manual override and also a dash LED to show when it was on. Even when -15 outside i never saw the fuel heate come on automatically.
Andy
the heated fuel filter housing on my 4runner was activated by a vacuum switch. So idea being if fuel froze or sludged up it would great a vacuum and switch would activate and turn on heater and hopefully de-wax the cold diesel.
I ran veg oil so i fitted a manual override and also a dash LED to show when it was on. Even when -15 outside i never saw the fuel heate come on automatically.
Andy
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
hi Andy, thats very interesting, thanks.
maybe i should just fit a switch and wire mine manually, if i did do you think i would need to use a relay?
i have got the relay that came off the 4-runner which was for the heated fuel filter.
ive still got a load of 20litre drums of veg oil, so would be great if i can use them this winter.
maybe i should just fit a switch and wire mine manually, if i did do you think i would need to use a relay?
i have got the relay that came off the 4-runner which was for the heated fuel filter.
ive still got a load of 20litre drums of veg oil, so would be great if i can use them this winter.
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
I sent my X-Brake back to Simon, and I have now received a refund for the unit but not the cost of the return postage.
One comment that Simon made was that Toyota owners do not seem willing to fettle the original parts to enable the X-brake to fit.
Now to Bens problems.
The degree of rubbing on the disc itself is considerable, that amount of bluing suggests the temperature was close to red heat.
On the Land-Rover and Suzuki set-ups, the X-brake replaces an existing drum brake. This means that the original brake was fixed to a machined surface so that it was at exactly 90 deg. to the output shaft c/line. On the Toyota, the X-brake back plate is bolted to a simple, non-machined, aluminium flange. This means that any variation in thickness of these mounting bosses will automatically create a situation where the mounting plate will be twisted. The amount of the twist will be directly proportional to the variation in boss thickness.
From an engineering point of view, there are a number of points that need checking to ascertain what the problem(s) is/are.
Ben.
Can you bring the motor to me in Redditch?
Roger
One comment that Simon made was that Toyota owners do not seem willing to fettle the original parts to enable the X-brake to fit.
Now to Bens problems.
The degree of rubbing on the disc itself is considerable, that amount of bluing suggests the temperature was close to red heat.
On the Land-Rover and Suzuki set-ups, the X-brake replaces an existing drum brake. This means that the original brake was fixed to a machined surface so that it was at exactly 90 deg. to the output shaft c/line. On the Toyota, the X-brake back plate is bolted to a simple, non-machined, aluminium flange. This means that any variation in thickness of these mounting bosses will automatically create a situation where the mounting plate will be twisted. The amount of the twist will be directly proportional to the variation in boss thickness.
From an engineering point of view, there are a number of points that need checking to ascertain what the problem(s) is/are.
Ben.
Can you bring the motor to me in Redditch?
Roger
ModelMakerMan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2011
- Messages
- 599
- Country Flag
ben said:thanks Roger, i will make some enquires and see if i can buy them all.
PM me your email address and I could save you a load of money!
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
Fuel Heater.
The two electrical manuals (main and supplement) refer to the "Fuel Heater" and then in brackets "2L-T Europe". The diagram is the same. There is no mention of a vacuum switch. In the illustration "Position of parts in engine compartment" in the main book, RHD: 2L-T, F21 is noted as the fuel heater. There is no mention of a vacuum control switch. In the supplement, the details for RHD: 1KZ-T are the same. In the manual for the 1-KZ-T engine, under fuel system, there is an illustration which basically reads:-
Battery---ignition switch/ign---fuel heater fuse (15a)--- fuel heater and vacuum switch---earth.
looking at the picture of this fuel heater/vacuum switch, it appears to be the unit that fits on top of the filter housing and incorporates the manual pump for priming purposes. The vacuum part appears to be activated by the injector pump drawing in fuel from the filter.
Well I'll go to the foot of our stairs It's amazing what you learn.
So, to recap. The vacuum switch is built in and operates automatically. It's not mentioned in the electrical manuals, only the engine one. Power to the heater is via the ignition and is on when the engine is running, whatever the season. It is NOT on when the engine is off.
Roger
The two electrical manuals (main and supplement) refer to the "Fuel Heater" and then in brackets "2L-T Europe". The diagram is the same. There is no mention of a vacuum switch. In the illustration "Position of parts in engine compartment" in the main book, RHD: 2L-T, F21 is noted as the fuel heater. There is no mention of a vacuum control switch. In the supplement, the details for RHD: 1KZ-T are the same. In the manual for the 1-KZ-T engine, under fuel system, there is an illustration which basically reads:-
Battery---ignition switch/ign---fuel heater fuse (15a)--- fuel heater and vacuum switch---earth.
looking at the picture of this fuel heater/vacuum switch, it appears to be the unit that fits on top of the filter housing and incorporates the manual pump for priming purposes. The vacuum part appears to be activated by the injector pump drawing in fuel from the filter.
Well I'll go to the foot of our stairs
It's amazing what you learn.So, to recap. The vacuum switch is built in and operates automatically. It's not mentioned in the electrical manuals, only the engine one. Power to the heater is via the ignition and is on when the engine is running, whatever the season. It is NOT on when the engine is off.
Roger
Roger Fairclough
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2010
- Messages
- 1,106
Ben
PM Sent
Roger
PM Sent
Roger
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
just got home from a great day spent at Rogers.
many thanks Roger for your time and skills today, and thanks to your lovely wife Viv for the sandwiches and loads of cups of tea.
so the main issue i wanted to get sorted, and which Roger kindly offered to help me with, is the X-ENG handbrake issue(s).
so first job was to get the back axle jacked up, and supported on axle stands.
really must make myself one of these for my trolley jack. worked very well.
i was also impressed with the cut down acro-prop axle stands. i hope my boss isnt reading this, as we might have a few less acro props now.
anyway back to the X-ENG handbrake issue......................................
firstly we used a clever engineers measuring tool, that i dont know the name of to check how much out of true the disc is running. the disc is definitely slightly out of true, but not a huge amount.
so we removed the calliper and got it on the bench and stripped it down.
this revealed a nylon/fibre-glass piece that sits behind one of the pads, and pushes it out when the handbrake is applied. this part had clearly been badly effected by the heat of the brake binding and catching, as it had been badly melted on the face that sits behind the pad.
this part will need replacing, but for now, as a temporary fix, we attempted to file and sand it to get it flat again.
but we couldnt quite get it perfectly flat, so that the pad sat on it and did not rock. so we put it in the lathe and managed to get it a lot better.
we also found that the pad, on the side the disc had been catching on, has worn down quite badly.
after turning the nylon/fibre-glass piece flat, we attached it to the pad, and were now ready to re-assemble it.
we put the calliper in the vice, so that the 3 ball bearing would stay in place, while we fitted all the bits back into the calliper.
we re-fitted the calliper back onto the truck, and then turned are attention to the cable.
we found that there simply wasnt enough adjustment on the cable to get it all working nicely. so Roger came up with a great idea, of drilling another hole in the end of the cable, to space it away from the cable bracket that little bit more.
so in the vice, centre punched and ready for drilling.
while the cable guide bracket was off, we took the opportunity to grind the end down a bit, so that it now has plenty of clearance between it and the chassis cross member. before it had 2mm.
so all back on the truck, and the cable adjustment could begin.
we found that the blue alloy spacer pieces, between caliper and mounting plate need to be 4 mm longer to allow floating washers to float and not bind on cable mounting plate. to cure this problem we found some suitable washers and drilled the centre holes bigger. once fitted, these allowed the calliper to move and not bind.
in the pic below, the washer we added is between the calliper and the mounting bracket, below the big nut in the centre of the pic.
once we adjusted the cable up, the brake seemed to be working a lot better, certainly the best ive ever had it working.
but it definitely needs a new nylon/fibre-glass calliper piece, and ideally a new pad as the current one is badly worn, due to disc hitting it. hopefully this is something that Simon Rafferty of X-ENG will be able to help me with.
also noticed on the way back that the oil pressure gauge that i thought id wired up correctly, clearly isnt right, as it melted the clocks slightly next to where the needle had been sat on the gauge.
(i pulled over and disconnected it as soon as i noticed the damage.)
after looking under the bonnet of Rogers KZJ70, i now have a much better idea of what engine sensor is what, and which wires need to be connected where.
it took me an hour and 20mins to get to Rogers down the M6 and M5 motorways. im very pleased with the new engine, definitely the best mod ive done. it is a pleasure to drive on the motorway and will comfortably sit at 65-70mph, with the 35" tyres. on the way back, curious as to what it would do i got 85mph out of it and it still had more left. (this was of course on the private drive, to the farm where i work, and not on the motorway, as that would have been illegal.
)
many thanks Roger for your time and skills today, and thanks to your lovely wife Viv for the sandwiches and loads of cups of tea.
so the main issue i wanted to get sorted, and which Roger kindly offered to help me with, is the X-ENG handbrake issue(s).
so first job was to get the back axle jacked up, and supported on axle stands.
really must make myself one of these for my trolley jack. worked very well.
i was also impressed with the cut down acro-prop axle stands. i hope my boss isnt reading this, as we might have a few less acro props now.
anyway back to the X-ENG handbrake issue......................................
firstly we used a clever engineers measuring tool, that i dont know the name of to check how much out of true the disc is running. the disc is definitely slightly out of true, but not a huge amount.
so we removed the calliper and got it on the bench and stripped it down.
this revealed a nylon/fibre-glass piece that sits behind one of the pads, and pushes it out when the handbrake is applied. this part had clearly been badly effected by the heat of the brake binding and catching, as it had been badly melted on the face that sits behind the pad.
this part will need replacing, but for now, as a temporary fix, we attempted to file and sand it to get it flat again.
but we couldnt quite get it perfectly flat, so that the pad sat on it and did not rock. so we put it in the lathe and managed to get it a lot better.
we also found that the pad, on the side the disc had been catching on, has worn down quite badly.
after turning the nylon/fibre-glass piece flat, we attached it to the pad, and were now ready to re-assemble it.
we put the calliper in the vice, so that the 3 ball bearing would stay in place, while we fitted all the bits back into the calliper.
we re-fitted the calliper back onto the truck, and then turned are attention to the cable.
we found that there simply wasnt enough adjustment on the cable to get it all working nicely. so Roger came up with a great idea, of drilling another hole in the end of the cable, to space it away from the cable bracket that little bit more.
so in the vice, centre punched and ready for drilling.
while the cable guide bracket was off, we took the opportunity to grind the end down a bit, so that it now has plenty of clearance between it and the chassis cross member. before it had 2mm.
so all back on the truck, and the cable adjustment could begin.
we found that the blue alloy spacer pieces, between caliper and mounting plate need to be 4 mm longer to allow floating washers to float and not bind on cable mounting plate. to cure this problem we found some suitable washers and drilled the centre holes bigger. once fitted, these allowed the calliper to move and not bind.
in the pic below, the washer we added is between the calliper and the mounting bracket, below the big nut in the centre of the pic.
once we adjusted the cable up, the brake seemed to be working a lot better, certainly the best ive ever had it working.
but it definitely needs a new nylon/fibre-glass calliper piece, and ideally a new pad as the current one is badly worn, due to disc hitting it. hopefully this is something that Simon Rafferty of X-ENG will be able to help me with.
also noticed on the way back that the oil pressure gauge that i thought id wired up correctly, clearly isnt right, as it melted the clocks slightly next to where the needle had been sat on the gauge.
(i pulled over and disconnected it as soon as i noticed the damage.)after looking under the bonnet of Rogers KZJ70, i now have a much better idea of what engine sensor is what, and which wires need to be connected where.
it took me an hour and 20mins to get to Rogers down the M6 and M5 motorways. im very pleased with the new engine, definitely the best mod ive done. it is a pleasure to drive on the motorway and will comfortably sit at 65-70mph, with the 35" tyres. on the way back, curious as to what it would do i got 85mph out of it and it still had more left. (this was of course on the private drive, to the farm where i work, and not on the motorway, as that would have been illegal.
)
wobbly
Well-Known Member
Some great work, but reading the thread gives the definite impression that there is some guinea-piggery with the system, maybe a bit more testing needed to work out the potentiasl hurdles.
At least when you have yours sorted you can give the seller a heads up on fitting issues.
Pete
At least when you have yours sorted you can give the seller a heads up on fitting issues.
Pete
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
wobbly said:
yes im afraid that is what i have found, and Roger also had problems with the X brake he bought.
i emailed Simon from X-ENG yesterday and explained what i had found, and hi lighted a few issues i have had, and also told him i needed a new piston as mine had melted, and also a new pad as one of mine was badly worn.
he replied swiftly and said that he was sorry id had issues and went on to say they had trial fitted the brake to 6 vehicles without a problem, but it seems that the variability between model years is greater them they appreciated.
he then went on to say, we will of course supply the bits you need free of charge. However we have taken the decision to suspend the Toyota X-Brake as so many people have experienced trouble fitting it and it has resulted in a great deal of hostility and bad press. We have also decided not to pursue X-Brakes for any other Toyota models as the same problem is likely to occur.
and today, true to his word the parts arrived.
i called in at my local toyota main stealer today with the manual numbers Roger gave me, and was pleasantly surprised by the prices. unfortunately though they have suspended 2 of the manuals and there no longer available, 1 of which is the 1-KZT engine manaul.
Roger Fairclough said:
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
new rear lights should be here soon, and before i fit them i want to build a rear bumper. so ive started thinking about the design. 
looking through some of my OZ 4x4 magazines, theres a lot of adverts for kaymar rear bumpers. the adverts make kaymar out to be the company for the best rear bumpers, a bit like ARB are the company for the best front bumpers.
but looking on there website, im not a fan of any of there rear 70 bumpers.
http://kaymar.com.au/vehicles/toyota/75-78series.php
could do with some pics of decent 70 rear bumpers really.
looking through some of my OZ 4x4 magazines, theres a lot of adverts for kaymar rear bumpers. the adverts make kaymar out to be the company for the best rear bumpers, a bit like ARB are the company for the best front bumpers.
but looking on there website, im not a fan of any of there rear 70 bumpers.
http://kaymar.com.au/vehicles/toyota/75-78series.php
could do with some pics of decent 70 rear bumpers really.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
havnt started designing the rear bumper yet as been busy doing other bits.
had another delivery from milner last week.
1 new glow plug, to replace the brand new one that i sheared the end off by over tightening the little 10mm nut.
id noticed that the rear diff was leaking, since the ARB locker had been fitted.
so unbolted the prop, and fitted the new seal.
i also decided to drain all the oil, and refill it with new.
next i got a new fuel filter fitted, as ive been running on veg oil for a while, and wasnt sure when it was last changed.
id decided i wasnt happy with where i had mounted the 2 carling switches that control my rear locker and compressor, as there too easily knocked.
i came up with the idea of mounting them above the stereo, in the small useless space.
more on that later..............
i needed to fit a relay and switch for my glow plugs, as i was getting sick of having to open the bonnet every morning and night and then having to attach a wire from the battery to glow plugs.
toyota relay mounted with fuse.
i wired this to a spare carling diff lock switch.
switch lights up when the glow plugs are on.
next i needed to fit a new front axle hub seal.
so wheel off.
hub off.
and onto the bench to clear all the old grease off.
old seal and grease removed. new grease and seal fitted.
so the new switch panel, after spending a good few hours scouring the internet and ebay for a suitable switch panel, unsuccessfully. i decided it would have to be specially made, so my first thought was to get it laser cut out of stainless steel. but then i decided if i made it in alloy, i could make it myself easily enough.
so............................
i called into one of my local metal fabrication shops and bought an off cut of 3mm sheet alloy for £2.
i then marked up where all my carling switches would go. X marks the areas to cut out.
so after drilling 2 holes in one of the squares and then testing my proposed method would work, i set about drilling 2 holes in each square.
once all the holes were drilled i used a jigsaw with metal blade to cut out the squares.
test fitting a carling switch.
all done and cut the panel to the correct overall size.
used a file to clean up all the edges and get everything nice and straight and square.
had to notch one of the corners, so that it will fit around one of the heater vents.
next i cut the back off the plastic stereo surround.
i drilled some holes to hold the new switch panel in place, these made use of the existing plastic surround mounting holes. i then countersunk them so that the stainless steel screws i found will fit nice and flush.
all fitted.
just need to order some more carling switches now. oh and my front locker.
had another delivery from milner last week.
1 new glow plug, to replace the brand new one that i sheared the end off by over tightening the little 10mm nut.
id noticed that the rear diff was leaking, since the ARB locker had been fitted.
so unbolted the prop, and fitted the new seal.
i also decided to drain all the oil, and refill it with new.
next i got a new fuel filter fitted, as ive been running on veg oil for a while, and wasnt sure when it was last changed.
id decided i wasnt happy with where i had mounted the 2 carling switches that control my rear locker and compressor, as there too easily knocked.
i came up with the idea of mounting them above the stereo, in the small useless space.
more on that later..............
i needed to fit a relay and switch for my glow plugs, as i was getting sick of having to open the bonnet every morning and night and then having to attach a wire from the battery to glow plugs.
toyota relay mounted with fuse.
i wired this to a spare carling diff lock switch.
switch lights up when the glow plugs are on.
next i needed to fit a new front axle hub seal.
so wheel off.
hub off.
and onto the bench to clear all the old grease off.
old seal and grease removed. new grease and seal fitted.
so the new switch panel, after spending a good few hours scouring the internet and ebay for a suitable switch panel, unsuccessfully. i decided it would have to be specially made, so my first thought was to get it laser cut out of stainless steel. but then i decided if i made it in alloy, i could make it myself easily enough.
so............................
i called into one of my local metal fabrication shops and bought an off cut of 3mm sheet alloy for £2.
i then marked up where all my carling switches would go. X marks the areas to cut out.
so after drilling 2 holes in one of the squares and then testing my proposed method would work, i set about drilling 2 holes in each square.
once all the holes were drilled i used a jigsaw with metal blade to cut out the squares.
test fitting a carling switch.
all done and cut the panel to the correct overall size.
used a file to clean up all the edges and get everything nice and straight and square.
had to notch one of the corners, so that it will fit around one of the heater vents.
next i cut the back off the plastic stereo surround.
i drilled some holes to hold the new switch panel in place, these made use of the existing plastic surround mounting holes. i then countersunk them so that the stainless steel screws i found will fit nice and flush.
all fitted.
just need to order some more carling switches now. oh and my front locker.
ModelMakerMan
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2011
- Messages
- 599
- Country Flag
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
ModelMakerMan said:
i only need to use the switch for 5 seconds and she fires straight up.
ive also got the switch fused, and another fuse before the relay. ive then used very thick cable going from the relay to glowplugs.
that link was interesting reading, but it seems a bit pointless going to those efforts if your glow plug system already works fine, which mine obviously doesnt.
rather than messing around doing what that yank has done to get the glow plugs to heat for longer, surely all you need to do if its really cold is give the plugs a few heats.
by turning the ignition on and waiting for the glow plug light to go out, then turn the ignition off and do it again.
