Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

LJ70 Build Thread!

Hmmm not sure about that... Can't you just mount the slides anywhere along where you find a hole.. Of course you don't want to use holes that are at the back, kinda want one at each end and perhaps one in the middle :confusion-seeingstars:
 
My plan wasn't to use sliders though Tony. It's heavier duty than that and involves roller bearings like the AO product. The drawer then has a box section down the side that runs in the roller.
The rollers bolt into the ready drilled holes. Now on the outsides that's not that important, but as the middle is two back t back drawers the holes HAVE to line up so that you can bolt through with a bearing on each side.

Chris
 
thanks guys. :thumbup:

Chris your cable tray idea was a good one. :clap:

Tony the holes lining up is more for aesthetics than for any real practical reason, but i want to use Chris's idea with bolting through the middle pieces with a bearing on each side, so this bit was critical. 8-)

i need to buy some 2" x 1" alloy box section. once i have this i can work out what size bearings to get.

its then just the actual drawer bodies to make. still not exactly sure how im going to do it. id rather make the drawers out of metal than wood really.

its a shame i havnt got a TIG welder yet. could make some lovely alloy boxes for the drawers then.

i have got a big sheet of aluminium and a load of angle aluminium, so maybe i could bolt them all together. :think:

the other thing i need to sort are some decent catches. i know exactly what i want but cant seem to find anywhere selling them. :angry-banghead:
 
Ah right, to join the two section in the middle. Also forgot about the roller bearings... Thanks that makes sense now.
 
Ben, I wouldn't normally buy metal from B&Q but in their hardware dept they have some lovely ally box in a long length for about £20 which I reckoned was less than the diesel to go to the steel stockholders. My idea was to pilot a holes right through and then open one hole up so that small bolts or self tappers could be put through to hold the box against the drawers. I felt that some domed head bolts on the inside of the drawers with nylocks on the outside - inside the box section would be pretty strong.

My plan then was to make the drawers out of MDF like I did on Lil Blue actually with the sides routed out to take the floor. Hey the drawers are still going so they must have been strong. But TIG welded drawer carcasses would be sweeet.


Chris
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
thanks Chris i will have a look in B&Q when i get chance. :thumbup:

i read your idea on Sam's thread about drilling a bigger hole in one side of the box so you can get a socket in.
great idea and one i intend on using. :clap:

still not convinced about using wood for the drawers. if i had a dovetail jig then id possibly use some 3/4" or 1" marine or birch ply. but im not personally a huge fan of MDF, although i dont doubt your idea would be strong. :think:
 
I know exactly what you mean but I made mine from 9mm MDF, slotted all round and the corners slotted too, glued. Glued ONLY. Yep, I know.

Might be tempting to put a brace across the back of the drawer between the two sliders. I also thought about using threaded rod - studding, through the inside of the front of the drawer as a tie rod. You can put a nut on the inside and the outside of the drawer so that the sides are held in place. Biggest issue is them bulging outwards. With the ally box down the side, I can't see that happening

Keep the ideas coming. I am making notes.

Chris
 
Here's what I had planned for bearings, in case it helps you

IMAG0747.jpg


IMAG0748.jpg


IMAG0749.jpg


IMAG0750.jpg


IMAG0751.jpg


I was trying to minimise wasted space by not having to leave room for bolt heads. For the bearings that were going to mount back to back, the central hole would be smaller and tapped so the bolt would pass through from it's opposite number and tighten without needing a nut :) Total width is 12mm so I was going to use 15mm deep box, drilled and fixed to the metal drawer sides in the way Chris has already mentioned.
 
Excellent Jon, just pop those in the post and we'll sort things out in the usual way :thumbup: :lol: :lol:

Chris
 
I had only got as far as making 3 of the inserts :roll: these are the bearings I got.
 
At an hour each, I'm not surprised Jon.

Chris
 
about 25 minutes each, which might be why the commercial ones don't use that method :) Would have been worth it, still might be :) Sorry Ben, have your thread back :mrgreen:
 
After 70 pages, I don't think a little wandering will hurt. It's all relevant. However, I think with the width of the box runner, a nut and bolt head will probably be well clear of touching the drawer. What is needed is a flat headed fixing with male thread one end and female in the other that goes through each bearing, meeting in the middle. There is a plastic fitting like this in some flat pack [strike:2n4bl3z7]misery[/strike:2n4bl3z7] furniture. Wonder if you can get them in metal.

Chris
 
thanks guys. :thumbup:

Chris, ive got a load of those fixings you mention in metal, but unfortunately there very small, the thread on them must only be 3mm, so i dont think theyd be strong enough.

the ones ive got came with expensive commercial door handles, i think there called connector bolts. :?

EDIT- a quick search on ebay for connector bolts does reveal quite a few that might be suitable. :thumbup:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-KITCHEN-BE ... 2250wt_754

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12X-CABINET-C ... 1091wt_754

might have to get some of those for securing the bearings both sides of the middle devide between the drawers. :thumbup:
 
With a small enough hole in the bearing (or sleeve added) and some thread-lok, they may just do the job you know. The outer edge ones can just use a more conventional domed head roofing bolt type thingy.

Good find Ben. You'll have my drawers built in no time.

Sorry, meant your drawers. Obviously. :whistle:

Chris
 
ben said:
the other thing i need to sort are some decent catches. i know exactly what i want but cant seem to find anywhere selling them. :angry-banghead:
Click to expand...
Good progress on the drawers Ben. :thumbup:

When I made my drawers 5 years ago I used stainless slam latches from this place: http://faparkes.epicoriscala.com/ Have a search in their latches and catches section, they may have something to suit. My catches are still going strong after much use over the years.

With regard to the drawers themselves, I know your going down the roller bearing route to enable the drawers to slide out. I found some heavy duty slides (80kg ish if I recall correctly) to mount my drawers to, but the ones I used also have the ability to lock in the fully open position. A very useful feature when you've parked with the vehicle facing downhill.
 
Scott said:
the ones I used also have the ability to lock in the fully open position. A very useful feature when you've parked with the vehicle facing downhill.
Click to expand...
It should be possible to to make a feature like that using bearings. Just make a bump that the rear most bearing ramps over when the drawer is fully extended. :think:
 
My fridge slide uses a simple spring clip that holds the slide both open and shut - slips into a hole at either end and is plenty effective.

Cheers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Boboc.theo
Stuck steering rack snail nut
Replies
0
Views
273
Boboc.theo
Boboc.theo
G
Looking to buy '97 vx landcruiser
Replies
2
Views
168
gaggidhillon
G
R
Disassembling ac cooling unit interior
Replies
1
Views
139
felix2566
felix2566
Bmonck
Diesel engines at altitude - 1HZ
Replies
7
Views
229
nick_the_fish
nick_the_fish
J
4.2 fuel transfer pump or just injection pump
Replies
6
Views
378
John Shimp
J
YYY
Back
Top