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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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- 6,055
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Update.................
Few work pics first........................
I finished repairing the front of my bosses Sierra where the body had been cut out to accommodate the Warn high mount winch.
I finished the new front bar for it and got it shot blast.
I got it powdercoated yellow and fitted it.
We had a customers Sierra in for a load of work.
One of the jobs I had to do was to design and fit a tramp rod.
A tramp rod is a top link which basically stops the diff from rotating on leaf sprung vehicles. There not normally necessary, but when you fit lower gears to the transferbox, combined with super aggressive tyres and lockers then the amount of torque and traction is enough for the whole axle to try and rotate.
This was causing damage to the rear shocks.
I decided I wanted to make it fully bolt on and avoid any chassis welding. I also thought it would be nice to use a Vitara rear bottom link as we have got loads in stock and they rarely sell.
First job was to make a plate to bolt onto the diff, so I cut some carboard and used some punches to mark all the holes.
I could then mark and cut some 6mm plate.
Cut it out with the plasma cutter.
Cut, drilled and welded on some more 6mm.
So this bracket would allow me to bolt a Vitara bottom link to the top of the axle.
I cut, drilled and welded a piece of angle to bolt inside the chassis cross member for the other end of the link to bolt to.
I bolted it roughly in position and then checked everything would clear and nothing would bind.
I decided to add a gusset to brace the mount on top of the axle.
All finished, painted and ready to be fitted.
The section that bolts inside the chassis cross member picks up on 2 of the body mounts and I drilled through and added 3 x M10 bolts.
I did some more on the air boat project.
I cut the 4 meter length of alluminium in half.
And welded them on to form the sides of the hull.
I forgot my camera on Monday so sadly no pics of me cutting and welding in the front sections.
But this is where I got to.
I ordered a load more alluminium today. 100mm x 50mm box section for ribs which will add a lot of strength and rigidity, and some 40mm tube which will get a saw cut down its entire length and will then push over the top of the sides and front and back and be welded in position.
Then we want to put it in water and see what height it sits at and take it to a weigh bridge and find out how heavy it is. Then we can order the propeller from the USA and start to look at mounting the Suzuki engine in the back.
I'm looking forward to designing and making the cage/frame to mount the engine as that will be a work of art and fully TIG welded, so expect some sexy welds!
I had a little project to do today to design and make a prototype battery tray/drawer to mount 2 12v batteries underneath a shepherds hut.
People use these portable buildings to get around planning consent as it can be parked/positioned on your property and used as a holiday cottage/office etc.
I chose to make it out of folded 2mm steel.
The beauty of constructing them like this is if we get the contract we can get these laser cut and folded and all we will have to do is bolt them together with the runners and battery boxes.
It will be screwed into the floor joists underneath the trailer and the batteries will be mounted in marine boxes. The idea is that the batteries can easily be slid out for maintenance etc.
Solar panels on the roof will keep them topped up.
I sent that one for powdercoating and we will go and fit it on Thursday.
And finally LJ's aux fuel tank which I'm sad to say isnt finished!
I cut and re-bent the top section.
And cut and punched the baffle ready for folding.
I cut and hole sawed some 6mm plate.
Cut a 25mm section of the 90mm pipe I use for my welding practice/test.
I marked and drilled one of the pieces of 6mm plate that I had hole sawed.
Drilled and taped some holes to take M5 bolts.
The fuel sender would now bolt to the 6mm thick flange.
As the top of the fuel tank needs to be nice and flat for the stainless water tank to fit on top, I needed to space the fuel sender unit down, hence the 25mm piece of 90mm pipe.
Welded the 2 pieces together.
I made another flange out of 3mm to match the 6mm thick one, these flanges are for the fuel filler neck which will bolt on.
Taped the 6mm.
I cocked up slightly in that when I folded up the baffle for inside the tank I made it too big.
I didn't want to cut into the large sheet of alluminiumised steel I'd got left to make another baffle. So I hammered 2 of the folds flat and re-folded it.
I cut a 50mm hole in the tank for the filler neck.
Drilled the bolt holes.
Bolted it in position.
Welded it in position.
In hind sight I should have probably just tacked it and made sure I didnt have the amps so high as I got far too much penetration and distortion. Its actually pretty tricky stuff to weld with the layer of alluminium on each side, but you live and learn!
I got the fuel sender bolted into its flange so I could work out where it will go.
Spot welded the baffle in position.
The top section will need to have a few holes drilled into so it to can be spot welded to the baffle.
I drilled the bottom of the tank and welded the fuel outlet in position.
Drilled the top of the tank for the fuel sender.
Ground the alluminium back ready for welding.
So this is where I'm currently up to.
I need to weld the fuel sender flange on.
And weld the top section to the bottom section.
I've marked where I need to grind the alluminium off ready for the fillet weld.
I'm hoping to do some more on it this weekend but my number one priority now is practicing for the big TIG test. The test isnt cheap and its only on every couple of months and I really really need to pass it!
This is the first thing to ever come between me and LJ, but I have spent the last 18 months learning and practicing and LJ will have to wait.
Few work pics first........................
I finished repairing the front of my bosses Sierra where the body had been cut out to accommodate the Warn high mount winch.
I finished the new front bar for it and got it shot blast.
I got it powdercoated yellow and fitted it.
We had a customers Sierra in for a load of work.
One of the jobs I had to do was to design and fit a tramp rod.
A tramp rod is a top link which basically stops the diff from rotating on leaf sprung vehicles. There not normally necessary, but when you fit lower gears to the transferbox, combined with super aggressive tyres and lockers then the amount of torque and traction is enough for the whole axle to try and rotate.
This was causing damage to the rear shocks.
I decided I wanted to make it fully bolt on and avoid any chassis welding. I also thought it would be nice to use a Vitara rear bottom link as we have got loads in stock and they rarely sell.
First job was to make a plate to bolt onto the diff, so I cut some carboard and used some punches to mark all the holes.
I could then mark and cut some 6mm plate.
Cut it out with the plasma cutter.
Cut, drilled and welded on some more 6mm.
So this bracket would allow me to bolt a Vitara bottom link to the top of the axle.
I cut, drilled and welded a piece of angle to bolt inside the chassis cross member for the other end of the link to bolt to.
I bolted it roughly in position and then checked everything would clear and nothing would bind.
I decided to add a gusset to brace the mount on top of the axle.
All finished, painted and ready to be fitted.
The section that bolts inside the chassis cross member picks up on 2 of the body mounts and I drilled through and added 3 x M10 bolts.
I did some more on the air boat project.
I cut the 4 meter length of alluminium in half.
And welded them on to form the sides of the hull.
I forgot my camera on Monday so sadly no pics of me cutting and welding in the front sections.
But this is where I got to.
I ordered a load more alluminium today. 100mm x 50mm box section for ribs which will add a lot of strength and rigidity, and some 40mm tube which will get a saw cut down its entire length and will then push over the top of the sides and front and back and be welded in position.
Then we want to put it in water and see what height it sits at and take it to a weigh bridge and find out how heavy it is. Then we can order the propeller from the USA and start to look at mounting the Suzuki engine in the back.
I'm looking forward to designing and making the cage/frame to mount the engine as that will be a work of art and fully TIG welded, so expect some sexy welds!
I had a little project to do today to design and make a prototype battery tray/drawer to mount 2 12v batteries underneath a shepherds hut.
People use these portable buildings to get around planning consent as it can be parked/positioned on your property and used as a holiday cottage/office etc.
I chose to make it out of folded 2mm steel.
The beauty of constructing them like this is if we get the contract we can get these laser cut and folded and all we will have to do is bolt them together with the runners and battery boxes.
It will be screwed into the floor joists underneath the trailer and the batteries will be mounted in marine boxes. The idea is that the batteries can easily be slid out for maintenance etc.
Solar panels on the roof will keep them topped up.
I sent that one for powdercoating and we will go and fit it on Thursday.
And finally LJ's aux fuel tank which I'm sad to say isnt finished!
I cut and re-bent the top section.
And cut and punched the baffle ready for folding.
I cut and hole sawed some 6mm plate.
Cut a 25mm section of the 90mm pipe I use for my welding practice/test.
I marked and drilled one of the pieces of 6mm plate that I had hole sawed.
Drilled and taped some holes to take M5 bolts.
The fuel sender would now bolt to the 6mm thick flange.
As the top of the fuel tank needs to be nice and flat for the stainless water tank to fit on top, I needed to space the fuel sender unit down, hence the 25mm piece of 90mm pipe.
Welded the 2 pieces together.
I made another flange out of 3mm to match the 6mm thick one, these flanges are for the fuel filler neck which will bolt on.
Taped the 6mm.
I cocked up slightly in that when I folded up the baffle for inside the tank I made it too big.
I didn't want to cut into the large sheet of alluminiumised steel I'd got left to make another baffle. So I hammered 2 of the folds flat and re-folded it.
I cut a 50mm hole in the tank for the filler neck.
Drilled the bolt holes.
Bolted it in position.
Welded it in position.
In hind sight I should have probably just tacked it and made sure I didnt have the amps so high as I got far too much penetration and distortion. Its actually pretty tricky stuff to weld with the layer of alluminium on each side, but you live and learn!
I got the fuel sender bolted into its flange so I could work out where it will go.
Spot welded the baffle in position.
The top section will need to have a few holes drilled into so it to can be spot welded to the baffle.
I drilled the bottom of the tank and welded the fuel outlet in position.
Drilled the top of the tank for the fuel sender.
Ground the alluminium back ready for welding.
So this is where I'm currently up to.
I need to weld the fuel sender flange on.
And weld the top section to the bottom section.
I've marked where I need to grind the alluminium off ready for the fillet weld.
I'm hoping to do some more on it this weekend but my number one priority now is practicing for the big TIG test. The test isnt cheap and its only on every couple of months and I really really need to pass it!
This is the first thing to ever come between me and LJ, but I have spent the last 18 months learning and practicing and LJ will have to wait.
Looking great Ben, the extra fuel will be so handy. Any plans on the disk conversion? I've been doing a mass of work to my FJ but still a lot to do. I'm heading overseas in a couple of weeks and want to get a heap done before I go. I ended up going to ELS and got a bunch of parts. Its a great shop and fantastic service. All the best with the TIG test, by the look of your welds I'm sure you'll pass.
Cheers,
Ash.
Cheers,
Ash.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 6,055
- Country Flag
Thanks Ash.
No not yet, but I would like to do it after the fuel tank.
Awesome, good that Brad was able to help you out.
I found out last night that the welding tests are actually every 4 or 6 months. Meaning if I dont pass I may not be able to take another till December which would really mess my plans up!
The fuel tank is on hold now while all spare time is taken up with what has now become an obsession for me. I go to bed thinking about TIG welding pieces of pipe together and wake up thinking about it!
I will be practicing all weekend now!
No not yet, but I would like to do it after the fuel tank.
Awesome, good that Brad was able to help you out.
I found out last night that the welding tests are actually every 4 or 6 months. Meaning if I dont pass I may not be able to take another till December which would really mess my plans up!
The fuel tank is on hold now while all spare time is taken up with what has now become an obsession for me. I go to bed thinking about TIG welding pieces of pipe together and wake up thinking about it!
I will be practicing all weekend now!
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Good to see the tank coming along, but I suppose we'll have to wait till after you've passed your exam.
Good luck Ben, but it's all going to be down to skill more than luck, I guess!
Good luck Ben, but it's all going to be down to skill more than luck, I guess!
Hey Ben, it's getting close now 999,700 + and counting...
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
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- Country Flag
I got the battery slide back from the powdercoaters and got it assembled ready for delivery.
OK back to the air boat project.
I used a twin blade saw.
To cut a groove into a length of 40mm tube.
It would then fit snugly over the top of the boat sides.
Mitered joints.
I couldnt finish the front/front side tubes without first adding the bumper.
The idea was to have a nice big round piece of tube at the front that will help us ride up and over logs and rocks in the river.
I picked up a pretty expensive length of tube.
100mm tube with a 6mm wall.
I also brought my TIG in.
And picked up some filler rod, tungsten's and 16mm rod.
Got the TIG setup.
And prepared to weld the joints in the tube.
Next I needed to add the 100mm tube to the front so I could add the last 2 front side pieces of tube.
Cut another groove.
I cut a cardboard template of the tube, minus the 5mm thick hull section.
Marked what needed removing from the hull.
Cut out.
Slid the tube on.
Trimmed the ends on an angle.
I went for a 100mm overhang, the idea being that if the boat needs winching/pulling up out of a river it will be good to hook the ends of a tree trunk protector/snatch strap/lifting sling etc. around each end of the tube and then winch as it will be really strong.
I could then cut and add the last 2 pieces of 40mm tube which had some interesting cuts on the end in order to fit snugly against the 100mm tube.
I cut some ribs out of 100mm x 50mm x 1mm alluminium.
And that was Thursday night done.
This morning I got cracking with the boat again.
First job was to fully weld all the way around the inside of the boat using the Fronius.
I'm not a fan of welding alluminium with the Fronius, which is basically a high tech MIG. The welds dont look great and its not actually fusing the metal together properly like TIG.
So my next job was to flip the boat over and fully TIG weld every seam.
I needed to grind back the Fronius welds and clean it all up ready for the TIG.
I could then crack on with the TIG welding.
Alluminium is an absolute pleasure to weld with my TIG, its so satisfying!
I then started welding the tube on all the way around the top.
I went for a 60mm fillet weld every 300mm.
I'm hoping a full day on it next week will see me get all the TIG welding done on the hull.
I need to add a central recovery point/tie down. I'm hoping to use the 16mm solid bar which I'm hoping I might be able to bend into a horse shoe shape. I'm hoping by pre-heating it I can bend it without it cracking.
I also need to get the donor car in so I can remove the engine and fuel tank which will be going in the boat. I also need to carefully remove the loom and ECU and label everything so it can go in the boat.
I'm really enjoying this project and its great alluminium welding practice for me!
OK back to the air boat project.
I used a twin blade saw.
To cut a groove into a length of 40mm tube.
It would then fit snugly over the top of the boat sides.
Mitered joints.
I couldnt finish the front/front side tubes without first adding the bumper.
The idea was to have a nice big round piece of tube at the front that will help us ride up and over logs and rocks in the river.
I picked up a pretty expensive length of tube.
100mm tube with a 6mm wall.
I also brought my TIG in.
And picked up some filler rod, tungsten's and 16mm rod.
Got the TIG setup.
And prepared to weld the joints in the tube.
Next I needed to add the 100mm tube to the front so I could add the last 2 front side pieces of tube.
Cut another groove.
I cut a cardboard template of the tube, minus the 5mm thick hull section.
Marked what needed removing from the hull.
Cut out.
Slid the tube on.
Trimmed the ends on an angle.
I went for a 100mm overhang, the idea being that if the boat needs winching/pulling up out of a river it will be good to hook the ends of a tree trunk protector/snatch strap/lifting sling etc. around each end of the tube and then winch as it will be really strong.
I could then cut and add the last 2 pieces of 40mm tube which had some interesting cuts on the end in order to fit snugly against the 100mm tube.
I cut some ribs out of 100mm x 50mm x 1mm alluminium.
And that was Thursday night done.
This morning I got cracking with the boat again.
First job was to fully weld all the way around the inside of the boat using the Fronius.
I'm not a fan of welding alluminium with the Fronius, which is basically a high tech MIG. The welds dont look great and its not actually fusing the metal together properly like TIG.
So my next job was to flip the boat over and fully TIG weld every seam.
I needed to grind back the Fronius welds and clean it all up ready for the TIG.
I could then crack on with the TIG welding.
Alluminium is an absolute pleasure to weld with my TIG, its so satisfying!
I then started welding the tube on all the way around the top.
I went for a 60mm fillet weld every 300mm.
I'm hoping a full day on it next week will see me get all the TIG welding done on the hull.
I need to add a central recovery point/tie down. I'm hoping to use the 16mm solid bar which I'm hoping I might be able to bend into a horse shoe shape. I'm hoping by pre-heating it I can bend it without it cracking.
I also need to get the donor car in so I can remove the engine and fuel tank which will be going in the boat. I also need to carefully remove the loom and ECU and label everything so it can go in the boat.
I'm really enjoying this project and its great alluminium welding practice for me!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
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Thanks guys.
With the welding test 5 weeks today I've been going flat out in the garage on the TIG.
I've been making some great progress and will spend all day tomorrow out there as well.
The hardest bit has been the overhead/upside down welding but I've cracked it now.
Just come in to find Bec has been really sweet and got me a balloon and chocolates!
With the welding test 5 weeks today I've been going flat out in the garage on the TIG.
I've been making some great progress and will spend all day tomorrow out there as well.
The hardest bit has been the overhead/upside down welding but I've cracked it now.
Just come in to find Bec has been really sweet and got me a balloon and chocolates!
Cool
Nice on Bec!
Nice on Bec!
Craigmorley
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2014
- Messages
- 341
- Country Flag
Hi Ben lockers are in now and testing them tomorrow cnt wait
good luck with exam too hope u smash it mate
also do you no if a kzj70 engine goes straight in to lj70 as a mate has a right off one he brought as a donor? Is it same fittment style as 4runner?? E.g engine mounts?
Thanks mate
good luck with exam too hope u smash it mate
also do you no if a kzj70 engine goes straight in to lj70 as a mate has a right off one he brought as a donor? Is it same fittment style as 4runner?? E.g engine mounts?
Thanks mate
- Joined
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Thanks guys.
Sounds good Craig, you will love having instant traction at the flick of a switch!
Earlier and later LJ70's have different chassis's as they have different suspension setups, but the engine mounts on the chassis should be the same.
The later LJ70's and KZJ70's have different chassis's according to Toyodiy. So I dont imagine it will just bolt straight in. The engine block of the 1KZ-T engine is obviously the same in the 4-runner and KZJ70, but the KZJ70 may run different engine mounts.
I will be interested to hear how well it does go in as most people obviously do it the other way round and fit a 4-runner one.
Sounds good Craig, you will love having instant traction at the flick of a switch!
Earlier and later LJ70's have different chassis's as they have different suspension setups, but the engine mounts on the chassis should be the same.
The later LJ70's and KZJ70's have different chassis's according to Toyodiy. So I dont imagine it will just bolt straight in. The engine block of the 1KZ-T engine is obviously the same in the 4-runner and KZJ70, but the KZJ70 may run different engine mounts.
I will be interested to hear how well it does go in as most people obviously do it the other way round and fit a 4-runner one.
