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LJ70 Build Thread!

Toyota Dyna Winch Bumper

I had another busy week at work, only a short one as Monday was a public holiday as it was the Queens birthday.

I've been busy working on my bosses latest toy, his tip truck.

I needed to replace the rotten front cross member and build a new front bumper with a big 12,000LB winch mounted in it.

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The rotten cross member was riveted in position so I had to grind the heads off the rivets and punch them out.

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I ended up having to slice it down the middle to get it off.

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Cut some 90mm x 10mm flat to length and ground the corners off 2 edges to fit snugly in the chassis rails, this would give me something nice and strong to mount the winch off.

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Drilled some holes in it to line up with existing holes in the chassis.

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Bolted in position.

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Cut and drilled some 75mm x 50mm angle to replace the rotten chassis cross member.

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Cut and drilled another for the bottom.

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Used the oxyacetylene torch to notch out the 90mm flat to allow the winch to sit lower.

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With no machine big enough to cut the 200mm x 6mm flat I needed to use for the winch to bolt to, I clamped a straight edge to it and cut it with the 9" grinder.

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Drilled it for the winch and ground the mill scale off where I intended on welding.

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Prepared the 90mm flat for welding by beveling the edges to ensure good weld root penetration.

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Used the trolley jack to lift the piece of 200mm flat up into position and bolted it to the bottom of the winch and tack welded the 200mm to the 90mm.

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Front section next, again out of the 200mm x 6mm.

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Marked and drilled.

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Joined the holes up with the grinder.

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The fairlead bolts through the 6mm into the winch. This would mean the winch will be bolted in position with 4 bolts coming up from the base and 2 through the front so should be nice and strong.

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Bolted it on and tack welded the 200mm front to the rest of the winch mount.

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The winch had to be mounted quite far forward to clear the tilting cab.

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Cardboard template next for the wings.

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Ended up taking a bit more off the template and then cut some 3mm sheet steel and tacked it on.

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Next template.

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Cut and tacked in position.

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Other side.

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End sections.

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Decided to add a solid back section, not something you would normally have on a winch bumper, but then this isnt a normal winch bumper with it being mounted so far forward from the cab and me wanting it to be very strong.

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Fully welded around the top.

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I wanted to add some tube next. 2" would have been far too small so I opted for 3".

Sadly we cant bend 3" in our bender so I only had one option which was to cut and shut some narrow hoops we already had left over from Vitara winch bumpers.

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Used some big angle to help keep it all alined while I TIG welded it.

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Went for a 1.6mm gap as having them fitted tight would have effectively meant when I ground the weld down afterwards I would have ground all the reinforcement away and it would have been pretty weak.

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Ground the welds down.

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Cut 10mm to nothing off the bottom of both sides of the hoop to lean it forward slightly away from the tilting cab.

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Decided to add a light-bar next so I grabbed one out of the show room.

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Welded some brackets onto the hoop for the light-bar, ground the welds down along the top of the winch bumper and then welded the hoop on.

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Removed the bumper.

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Removed the winch and light-bar and made a start fully welding it all.

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Decided to add a reciever hitch so that a front recovery point can be slid in for either snatch recoveries and/or an anchor point for the winch when using a snatch block. It will also be useful for moving big trailers around with a towball slid in.

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Put 2 cuts in with the angle grinder then joined them up with the oxy torch.

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Cleaned it up with the finger linisher.

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I wasnt able to use a conventional receiver hitch pin as it will be tricky to get to the other side to get the R clip in and out. So I picked up an M16 bolt instead and I will weld a wing-nut style wing to the bolt head.

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Welded the nut on to create a captive nut.

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Still need to weld it in position but it will sit like this.

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In preparation for the re-spray we got the sides of the pick up bed shotblast.

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And thats as far as I got!

I need to finish the bumper and get it powdercoated and re-fitted. We've ordered 6 mud tyres to hopefully stop the 2wd (well technically its a 4wd, as theres 4 tyres on the driven rear axle) Dyna from getting stuck in the fields (padocks as there called here).

The new tyres will be mounted on the original wheels which we will get shotblast and powdercoated.

Then theres the re-spray/paint work to do.

The drivers seat has just come from back from being repaired and re-upholstered and looks great.

The engine has also had a bit of work done on the cooling system which was all pretty rotten.

So a bit more work and then it can go off and have some fun with the excavator! It will come in very handy when my boss starts building the mote around his farm house! :dance:

We need to get back on the airboat project and get the propeller ordered from the states.

The huge gum tree should have been cut down by now ready for me to build the big 3 storey tree house for it, which will be built in pre-fabricated sections at work and then taken to the farm, lifted up into the tree and bolted together. :think:

I've also got a tiny bit more work to do on the solar car for next months Simpson Desert crossing. :icon-cool:

In the mean time I've picked up more supplies and my entire weekend will be spent practicing welding pieces of pipe, Again!

This is what I've been getting through every week! :icon-rolleyes:

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A $50 bottle of argon.

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And a crate full of machined pipe and filler rod.

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The big test is 2 weeks tomorrow so I'm practicing like crazy! :icon-smile:

Hoping the Sunday after the test I can finally get back on with LJ! :thumbup:
 
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That winch bumper looks fantastic Ben, your boss should be well pleased with that!

:lol:
 
We have a similar truck a ford trader 0510 which is very handy around the farm.But woe and grief comes to anyone who gets anything stuck because we give each other hell and the shame is hard to bear.I got our ride on mower stuck one day ,nearly went overa bank,my wife brought the quad around to tow me out ,got that stuck too.She threw up her hands in disgust,said you got it stuck so you get it out and I'm going shopping.so I got the David Brown990 with a loader on it,got a long rope,sat on firm ground hooked up the quad and the mower to the quad and used the bucket lift to pull them out gradually.had to get it done before my son came home or life would not have been worthwhile living.
 
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That winch bumper looks fantastic Ben, your boss should be well pleased with that!

:lol:

:thumbup:

We have a similar truck a ford trader 0510 which is very handy around the farm.But woe and grief comes to anyone who gets anything stuck because we give each other hell and the shame is hard to bear.I got our ride on mower stuck one day ,nearly went overa bank,my wife brought the quad around to tow me out ,got that stuck too.She threw up her hands in disgust,said you got it stuck so you get it out and I'm going shopping.so I got the David Brown990 with a loader on it,got a long rope,sat on firm ground hooked up the quad and the mower to the quad and used the bucket lift to pull them out gradually.had to get it done before my son came home or life would not have been worthwhile living.

Yeah I can imagine how handy a truck like this would be, from moving hay, to fire wood to rubbish to rocks and soil! :clap:

:lol:

Would be better if they were 4wd! :icon-twisted:

I reckon it may be possible to fit a 60 series front axle under our one but I'm not going to suggest it to my boss! :lol:

I've got enough projects on at the moment as it is, what with the Solar Suzuki, air boat and tree house! :icon-cool:

these will not fit... thats a chaindrive transfer 4runner/surfs are different to lj's/bundys...lj70's/bundera's ect run 60 series split transfers!...im running the 55% reduction gears in my rj70 with the diesel box (R151f) behind the 22r..... there on marks 4wd adapters page $1800ish aud

Didnt know that, thanks. :thumbup:

Update time...................................................

I did some more on the bull bar for the tip truck.

Cut, folded and hole sawed some more 3mm steel for the bottoms of the wings.

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The bigger hole is to allow access to the receiver hitch bolt.

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Other side.

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The holes are to allow any water to drain away as the sections are open at the top.

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The bullbar was then ready to be cleaned up ready for powdercoating.

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I couldnt quite get rid of all the surface marks left by the flap wheel disc in the grinder and I was worried they would show through the powdercoating.

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So I got some discs I hadnt used before, scotch-bright discs.

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It worked really well and soon the bullbar was nice and smooth and shiny!

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Got it back from powdercoating.

I suggested gun metal grey for the bullbar and wheels, rather than the normal satin black that we would normally go for.

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It came up good but ideally it should have been shot blast before being powdercoated. That is what ARB do before they powdercoat their bars as it helps key the surface but it also helps prevent any rust coming through around the welds.

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Fitted the winch.

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Fitted the light bar.

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Fitted a new hook.

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I stripped and cleaned the truck ready for the re-spray.

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Its in amazing condition really, considering its a 35 year old commercial vehicle.

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I'm hoping to get the snorkel powdercoated in grey the same as the bullbar and wheels.

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All ready for the panel shop to do the respray.

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I had to make an A frame which will be used to tow the Solar Suzuki out of the Simpson Desert if the car breaks down and fails its world record attempt.

The one key factor for my design was that it had to easy fold up/strip apart for easy storage.

I started off by cutting a piece of 6mm thick piece of steel to shape.

This is what the tow hitch will bolt to which will then connect onto the towbar on the back of my bosses 79 series.

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Next I cut and notched some 50mm tube and cut and drilled some more 6mm thick steel.

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They will bolt to the piece of 6mm that will have the tow hitch on.

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Notched the other end of the tubes.

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Cut some more 6mm thick steel.

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Bent it.

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Cut some tube which fits snugly inside the chassis cross member.

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Welded the tubes on.

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It fits into the round chassis cross member on the front of the Suzuki, after removing the front bumper.

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The A frame needed a brace to stop the 2 arms from spreading.

My boss was keen for the A frame to have a level of adjustability so that it can be used on either Suzuki.

So for the brace I chose to use a section of hi-lift jack.

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Hi-lift in the USA used to ship their jacks around the world in cages/crates built out of pieces of hi-lift jack!

So at work we have lots of bits of hi-lift jack which have been salvaged from these crates, some have holes, some dont.

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I cut and drilled some 6mm thick tabs to weld to the tubes which the high lift section will bolt to.

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I got the Solar Suzuki onto the hoist for a full front axle rebuild.

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All cleaned and ready for re-assembly with all new bearings and seals.

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I did a bit more on the air boat project.

I wanted to try and get the bottom of the boat to go flat again as it buckled and distorted when I welded around the edges.

In hindsight I wish I'd put a load of heavy pallets of snow chains on the bottom sheet of alluminium before I started welding to keep it nice and flat.

I got it set up on some tressels ready to try and heat the bottom up with the oxy torch. The theory being that welding on the top of the sheet of alluminium, made it buckle up, so heating the bottom might be enough for it to shrink and pull back down.

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Not very clear in the pics but the middle is bowed up by about 50mm in the middle.

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So the plan was to get on the creeper and slide around under the boat heating it with the torch.

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Sadly it made it worse and the middle ended bowing up 100mm! :doh:

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A bit of tool storage next!

sheet of 3mm alluminium.

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Notched the ends on the bandsaw.

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Folded the ends.

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Next my deep 1/4" drive sockets.

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Marked an off cut of 50mm x 25mm alluminium.

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Drilled the pilot holes.

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Then the bigger holes.

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I've been preparing my pieces of pipe for next Saturdays welding exam.

Normally I just clean them up with the grinder after they have been beveled on the oxy beveler.

But for the exam I want them to be perfectly machined and spotlessly clean to give me the best chance at a pass.

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I also made a new jig to allow me to clamp the 2 sections of pipe together while tack welding them as I've found some times they move slightly with the heat of the weld and I get misalignment.

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I ground a flat on 2 pieces of bent filler wire that I use as a spacer. The idea being that I can turn the spacers and pull them out after welding the tacks.

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Final weekend now before the test so I will be practicing constantly.

Next Sunday I can finally start prepping LJ for a 4wd trip that I'm planning for the weekend before I fly to Europe. :thumbup:
 
Would the bottom of the airboat bowing up give a sort of catamaran effect and maybe aid stability in the water? :think:
 
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Would the bottom of the airboat bowing up give a sort of catamaran effect and maybe aid stability in the water? :think:

this would cause a pocket of air under the boat which would not be a bad thing on a air boat.

stu
 
Would the bottom of the airboat bowing up give a sort of catamaran effect and maybe aid stability in the water? :think:

The boat doesn't actually cut through the water like a normal boat, once its going it rides above the water with the front of the boat raised up. :icon-twisted:

I'm going to try putting some weight in it while I heat it on Monday and see if that helps. If not it will just have to stay as it is, unless I get some thicker alluminium for the ribs and hope they are stiff enough to hold it flat. :think:
 
Seems to me you have accidentally created a couple of keels which might actually improve handling but i guess its a big risk to deviate from the tried and tested norm . I've got a 10 metre 10 ton cat and "slamming" is an inherent problem with all twin hulls .
 
All busy stuff Ben :clap:

Don't know what to say about the airboat hull, wouldn't a few more evenly spaced formers (ribs) keep the base flat, if it needs to be flat, that is?
 
Well the plan was always to add ribs Clive, but they were only going to be out of 1mm thick 4" x 2" box section to keep weight down. :think:

Today I put 500kg in the boat and heated the underside again with the oxy torch.

It went down a bit but still wasnt right

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So I decided to add 2 long ribs running the full length of the boat out of much thicker 3mm thick box section.

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It was still very buckled in places.

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I cut the 2 lengths of alluminium and put over a ton of snow chains on top of them to weigh them down and keep them nice and flush with the bottom.

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Started welding them in place. 40-50mm of weld every 200mm.

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It will be interesting to see how much the bottom of the boat pops back up after I've welded in these 2 lengths of box section. I expect the bottom of the boat to pop up a bit but I'm hoping it will now be a nice steady curve rather than a wave.

Another thing I like about having these 2 full length ribs is that I can run the fuel lines inside one and the electrical wires in the other
As the fuel tank and battery will be mounted under the bulkhead I'm going to build in the front of the boat, the fuel lines and battery cables will need to run the entire length of the boat to the car engine mounted high up above the rear of the boat. :think:

So this way the fuel lines and electrical cables will be fully hidden. :icon-cool:

And finally back to LJ.................................

I picked up an 8ft x 4ftsheet of 2mm alluminium today for the fuel tank. I had then cut it length ways for me as our guillotine will only do 1200mm wide sheets.

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:thumbup:
 
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Thanks Clive. :thumbup:

They've worked amazingly well and have fixed the problem! :dance:

I've started constructing the bulk head at the front and I'm hoping we can get it on the weigh bridge next week and get it sat in water to see what height the water comes up to.

Then we need to get the propeller ordered from the USA.

My boss is looking at a top of the range carbon fiber one for $2k!

It will work with anything from 100hp all the way up to 200hp and has adjustable pitch. :icon-twisted:

He has big plans to take it up to Darwin, croc country and do some filming up there with it! :crazy: :icon-cool:

I've got the big welding test tomorrow. :|

Its all going to come down to whether I can keep cool, calm and focused and not loose my head with the pressure and time limit!

At home I'm welding great when practicing, been out since 4.30am this morning and its been going great, so fingers crossed! :pray:
 
Good luck with it Ben. I'm sure you'll be fine. You've got LC owners all round the world keeping their fingers crossed for you!!
 
Good luck with the test tomorrow Ben, if anybody deserves to pass it's you with all the effort you've put in.

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Good luck Ben, keep a cool head and a steady hand. Actually, when I was learning to gas weld, I found I had to develop a (controlled) shaky torch hand, so maybe that was not such a good suggestion.:?

Just go for it and give it your all, you'll come through with flying colours! :thumbup:
 
Thanks guys. :thumbup:

Test is tomorrow Ash.

In exactly 13 hours I will have just started the test! :|

I think the relief its over is going to be quite overwhelming! I'm just praying I pass. :pray:

I get 3 hours to weld the 4 pieces of pipe together in the 2 positions, 2G and 5G which is loads of time so I dont need to rush. If the pieces of pipe pass the visual inspection then I cut 2 strips out of each pipe. 1 piece gets a nick cut in each side of the weld and gets broken on the press (nick-break test).
The other one gets bend tested where by the strip is bent all the way back on itself, again in the press and shouldn't crack if welded properly.

Then I get half an hour to demonstrate I can bevel and gouge 12mm plate. So I will need to oxycut 12mm plate on a 45 degree angle which is fairly easy running the cutting tip along a piece of 40mm angle.

The gouging is also fairly easy and is done using an air arc machine which is similar to an arc welder but with a jet of high pressure air which blasts the metal away to cut or gouge. :icon-ugeek:

Fingers crossed guys! :pray: :thumbup:
 
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