chadr
Well-Known Member
Do you use it to tow a tanker?
P.S. You'll need to change that sig line of yours too - quite a collection you have!
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My 100 series.
- Thread starter AndycruiserguyLomas
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Do you use it to tow a tanker?
P.S. You'll need to change that sig line of yours too - quite a collection you have!
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Just carrying on a bit, the wheels are a bit seen into so a trip to Metal Magic in Barnsley is on the cards.
The question is, I have a set of Range Rover alloys that came with some tyres I bought. Will they fit being 5 stud to stand the Cruiser on while the wheels are being refurbed?
Andy
The question is, I have a set of Range Rover alloys that came with some tyres I bought. Will they fit being 5 stud to stand the Cruiser on while the wheels are being refurbed?
Andy
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Chad, I made that comment tongue in cheek. the Burb has 42 gall tank and the best I ever got was 18 to the gall when I was really trying!!! mind you I love it, nothing beats it as a tow vehicle and it's awesome in deep snow.
Andy
Andy
Scott
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Looking good Andy. Very interesting that it was originally ordered from Oz. The genuine Toyota sub tank set up is a 50L tank that fits in the void between the spare wheel and body, on 80/100/105 series cruisers. As far as I know, this doesn't cause the spare tyre to sit any lower than standard.
Handy that you lucked upon the garage that have done all the mechanicals since '04. Are they able to supply you with a copy of the work carried out? Would be very handy to have some history for its miles.
Handy that you lucked upon the garage that have done all the mechanicals since '04. Are they able to supply you with a copy of the work carried out? Would be very handy to have some history for its miles.
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It's a beauty.
More important than frequent oil changes, is propellor shaft lube. The engine is easy on the oil if you use synt, but the U-joints like some fresh cushioning every 5 k miles, or more often in rough environs.
More important than frequent oil changes, is propellor shaft lube. The engine is easy on the oil if you use synt, but the U-joints like some fresh cushioning every 5 k miles, or more often in rough environs.
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jonnyboy54321
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Dear me that really is lovely.
I never find bargains like that, so your thread has spurred me on to make some decent money this next year so I can afford one for myself (totally hooked and haven't yet driven my first LC, a 95 Colorado, in anger yet.....although its is in for MOT this week!)
I never find bargains like that, so your thread has spurred me on to make some decent money this next year so I can afford one for myself (totally hooked and haven't yet driven my first LC, a 95 Colorado, in anger yet.....although its is in for MOT this week!)
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Thats the answer I need Drew. If I take the wheels off to be refurbed I need to know what I'm going to do with the truck for a few days. Never mind it was just a thought.
Andy
Andy
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I wonder if running the cold oil for a short time might work as an engine cleaner if you get my meaning ?
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Extreme cold conditions made me think about that thread a while back where the engineer complained when he blew his old but low mileage engine saying there was a build up of sludge .
On reading that it seemed to me that short runs gently driven were responsible for the build up inside his engine because the oils never reached ideal working temperature . Perhaps the "cold oil" is designed to work efficiently at a lower temperature and so might act to burn away any build up of sludge if used in a warmer climate .
Just an idea i thought others might like to discuss .
On reading that it seemed to me that short runs gently driven were responsible for the build up inside his engine because the oils never reached ideal working temperature . Perhaps the "cold oil" is designed to work efficiently at a lower temperature and so might act to burn away any build up of sludge if used in a warmer climate .
Just an idea i thought others might like to discuss .
Doodle
Well-Known Member
IIRC, the outcome was that it was a unconfirmed wives tale to support a snake oil website service. However, continual short journeys where the engine doesn't get up to temperature aren't the best thing for them, but that is regardless of which viscosity of oil you happen to be running.
The reason for the thinner oil at extremely cold temperature is to make the car easier to start, as the oil becomes increasingly like treacle in consistency. Dad's Landcruiser in Italy had a tank heater to stop the diesel gelling in winter, and my mate's truck in Canada has a block heater (but then it does get f*cking cold where he lives).
The thought of it "burning up the sludge" is a nice idea, but in practice that's not really going to happen, especially given the different between 5w and 10w oil.
The reason for the thinner oil at extremely cold temperature is to make the car easier to start, as the oil becomes increasingly like treacle in consistency. Dad's Landcruiser in Italy had a tank heater to stop the diesel gelling in winter, and my mate's truck in Canada has a block heater (but then it does get f*cking cold where he lives).
The thought of it "burning up the sludge" is a nice idea, but in practice that's not really going to happen, especially given the different between 5w and 10w oil.
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If it has averaged 18K miles per year I guess it wasn't short journeys. However, it is what it is and the way I see it is that I've got a 100 series facelift model in generally good condition, to the spec if I had had it custom built, for £8.5K. It will have top spec 5-30 fully synthetic oil very soon.
Andy
Andy
warrenpfo
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Good for you Andy.
Something worth doing is to pop the rear light cluster out and just check in the bottom of the quarter panels for rust.
It's only two hex screws and takes a couple if minutes but rather safe than sorry.
It's also well worth getting your head in under the wheel arches and checking for rust as there is a lip that collects crap. It is also worth having a good look when you remove the rear mud flaps and on the front remove the inner plastic wheel arch guard and mudflats as you will find loads if rotting crap behind as it collects from inside the engine bay and unless removed sits and rots away.
Something worth doing is to pop the rear light cluster out and just check in the bottom of the quarter panels for rust.
It's only two hex screws and takes a couple if minutes but rather safe than sorry.
It's also well worth getting your head in under the wheel arches and checking for rust as there is a lip that collects crap. It is also worth having a good look when you remove the rear mud flaps and on the front remove the inner plastic wheel arch guard and mudflats as you will find loads if rotting crap behind as it collects from inside the engine bay and unless removed sits and rots away.
