The last three i have changed on 80s have been straightforward. I will have another go later next week. got my multi meter back tonight which is a plus.
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My 2004 100 Series
- Thread starter adrianr
- Start date
I'm going to have to work through the wiring and see if power is getting where it should. i noticed the rear locker red lamp on the dash was really dim while flashing, not sure if that gives me any clues at this point.
Got the non starting issues sorted per other thread. just for sake on continuity of this thread placing a summary here.
Non starting issue - now fixed.
Truck needed a lot of cranking one morning after being moved earlier and starting fine. noticed also the cheap air compressor for the rear air bags was running weak. then truck refused to start at all. after several hours tracked it down to a broken and very flimsy earth wire from the EDU that powers the spill valve on the pump. it had been replaced by previous owner when he fitted the filler neck for the second tank. I replaced the earth wire a few times and still had an occasional fault so replaced it with a much beefier strap I made. All seems fine now.
Non starting issue - now fixed.
Truck needed a lot of cranking one morning after being moved earlier and starting fine. noticed also the cheap air compressor for the rear air bags was running weak. then truck refused to start at all. after several hours tracked it down to a broken and very flimsy earth wire from the EDU that powers the spill valve on the pump. it had been replaced by previous owner when he fitted the filler neck for the second tank. I replaced the earth wire a few times and still had an occasional fault so replaced it with a much beefier strap I made. All seems fine now.
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New number plated light fitted. had to redo an earth connection back there as well. The old fitting was amusing at best, loving the stuck on tin foil to get it through its mot.
and after some messing. I wanted to use bolts to hold the lamp to the piece of steel but did not have small enough nuts. so cable ties for now.
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Cant work out if i hit a tree / branch or a tree / branch hit the truck last night. driving back home in the heavy winds and dark and rain on an unlit road at 40mph, a really loud bang just above the left of the windscreen. Certainly made me and my stepdaughter jump. The truck had not moved off line. stopped at a petrol station about half a mile up the road. was followed in by a van. my mag mount cb aerial was now bent and stuck to the right of the truck behind the rear most drivers side window, as opposed to its normal roof position. whatever i hit impacted the front edge of the passenger side roof rail, and only scratched it. the van behind had more damage, just missed his windscreen but made some nice dents in the section of his roof above the windscreen. Exciting night.
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Slight misfire - well that what it feels like. between 1400 and 1600 rpm i notice it. seems to be gone after sitting on the motorway for an hour or two and i dont notice it again for a few days. fuel filter changed recently and makes no difference. new earth on the EDU. I had noticed it well before the old earth gave in. intake has been cleaned and the egr has a metal blanking plate. otherwise truck seems to be running fine. pulls hard off the line and revs all the way to the red line if i stand on the loud pedal.
Valve clearance done last summer.
No DTC codes, mpg still really good (well i think so)
I ran a large can of liquid moly diesel purge through the pump / injectors 10000 miles back when i got the car. ill run another can through it later today to see if that helps. i suspect the injectors would benefit from an overhaul after about 20 years and 183000 plus miles.
any other suggestions of things i should check in the meantime gratefully received.
Valve clearance done last summer.
No DTC codes, mpg still really good (well i think so)
I ran a large can of liquid moly diesel purge through the pump / injectors 10000 miles back when i got the car. ill run another can through it later today to see if that helps. i suspect the injectors would benefit from an overhaul after about 20 years and 183000 plus miles.
any other suggestions of things i should check in the meantime gratefully received.
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Does it run rough, or is it just down on power, between 1400 and 1600 rpm? Wondering about sticky turbo vanes hesitating before they get to full boost. These turbo's seem quite sensitive to fuel quality when they get sticky - so a tank of e.g. Shell or BP with the extra additives, seems to go easier on the VNT than a tank of JET for example.
Thanks Jon. It feels a little rough in that rev range but only if i am cruising at that speed. it is not bad, just i notice it more these days - so it might be a bit worse or it might be me being more attentive of it. If i sit in neutral and move the revs up slowly i can feel it too - like it is running on five not six, above or below that rev range i cannot feel it. powering up through the revs i dont notice it. i'll grab a tank of the pricey fuel and give it a go. i should probably give the old tug a good hard long push along a fast road to clear things out.
Did not get the moly done tonight - it is tipping it down again so I will do that tomorrow.
Did not get the moly done tonight - it is tipping it down again so I will do that tomorrow.
went out this morning and gave the engine a good workout on long runs up the hills to get the egts up. holding it in lock up as long as i could on some hills and then running the truck foot down up to the red line through the box on other hills. 20 minutes of italian tune up later no misfire that i can detect. as usual, little noticeable smoke. i reckon i need to give it some grief more often, and still think an injector service sometime this year would be in order. I used DieselBob last time to service the injectors on my Rav 4 so I might give him a go this time. I had used RVS in swindon previously on the injectors on the old green 80.
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Just been to the pub. Drove it more briskly on the way. sat in the car park at the pub and the misfire was back when i tickled it up to 1400 rpm. ran the truck home through the hills and gave it some beans down the by pass. and at home in the drive way no misfire at 1400-1500 rpm. got to love an intermittent fault. i'll pull the MAF in the morning and run some cleaner over it. i was reading another thread on a different model 3.4 v6 petrol i think it was, where he had a bad misfire and los of power, turned out to be a bad MAF,
cleaning it will be easy enough, i have MAF cleaner on the shelf.
cleaning it will be easy enough, i have MAF cleaner on the shelf.
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Cleaned the MAF - looks to me like it has never been cleaned. Fiddly to get out and one of the screws was pretty stuck. I shall report back.
Was a lot easier to get at and remove on my RAV4 that I did before the Landcruiser.
Was a lot easier to get at and remove on my RAV4 that I did before the Landcruiser.
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Finally got some new rubber. just need one more tyre for the spare now. Found a guy who had bought 4 x Falken Wildpeak AT3WA 275/65 R18 (that I was after) for his Discovery and decided after fitting and before driving they did not look meaty enough and he removed them from the rims. So i grabbed these 4 with zero miles today for £540. He was in Blackpool so I included a trip up to see my daughters in the Lakes. I will get another tyre ordered this week and then get them borrow my pals tyre machine and mount them later this week.
Managed to load them into my Rav4. There would have had more room if I had remembered to remove grandsons car seat before setting off! That Rav4 has been such a good wee car.
Managed to load them into my Rav4. There would have had more room if I had remembered to remove grandsons car seat before setting off! That Rav4 has been such a good wee car.
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Having only done 300 miles in the truck since January thought it best to start using the old girl some more. Today fitted new engine and gearbox mounts (genuine via Partsouq). Not cheap and not an easy job, even on the ramp with my mate who has worked on trucks and cars for 30-plus years. The old mounts were in pretty good shape. so I'll pop them on eBay. I noticed there is less engine vibration in the truck now. I have the front diff bush one to change another day.
Another rear diff lock from amayama arrives tomorrow (I damaged the other new one I bought). I will fit the new one and then hopefully it will work. my mate's son is really great with electronics and stuff so he is going to see if he can sort the brushes I managed to detach on the other new one at least then I will have a good working spare.
Another rear diff lock from amayama arrives tomorrow (I damaged the other new one I bought). I will fit the new one and then hopefully it will work. my mate's son is really great with electronics and stuff so he is going to see if he can sort the brushes I managed to detach on the other new one at least then I will have a good working spare.
Oh, also removed the side steps. The truck looks better without them.
I am thinking in the future about removing the AHC which currently still works fine, has good pressures etc, and doing a 2 inch lift. is the pedders kit on roughtrax any good? Also fitting a new set of front and rear bumpers.
I am thinking in the future about removing the AHC which currently still works fine, has good pressures etc, and doing a 2 inch lift. is the pedders kit on roughtrax any good? Also fitting a new set of front and rear bumpers.
Hope you all fared well in the storms yesterday. Was glad to have the 100 to wade through the floods around here. plenty of roads impassable for most cars. I was surprised to be followed through the deepest water on the way back home by a man in an older silver Seat Toledo. I was watching him the mirror thinking you are cutting it fine. The water was up to the bottom of the Seat's headlights. If I had not held my speed down I wonder if he would have gone faster and the water would have been in the intake. If the Seat he was in is like the mk4 golfs diesels the intake is at the very top of the grille next to the nearside headlight. he was very close to it at one point.
Back to the rear diff lock
I would appreciate some suggestions of things to check. The new locker works - I adjusted the position of the rod to fit it using a 12v battery and some leads off the terminals.
The centre locker works fine. I have pulled the plug allowing me to use low ratio without the locker automatically engaging.
When starting the truck the test of the warning bulb's red rear lock lamp is dim compared to the others.
if I engage the centre lock the orange bulb is strong.
When I turn the rear locker switch the image flashes and the bulb appears dim and the lock does not engage. I cannot hear a click for a relay powering up either. Where is the relay / control unit located - is it in the passenger side behind the glove box?
Electrics are not my strong suit.
Where and what would you suggest I start checking to get the diff lock back into service please?
Thank you!
I would appreciate some suggestions of things to check. The new locker works - I adjusted the position of the rod to fit it using a 12v battery and some leads off the terminals.
The centre locker works fine. I have pulled the plug allowing me to use low ratio without the locker automatically engaging.
When starting the truck the test of the warning bulb's red rear lock lamp is dim compared to the others.
if I engage the centre lock the orange bulb is strong.
When I turn the rear locker switch the image flashes and the bulb appears dim and the lock does not engage. I cannot hear a click for a relay powering up either. Where is the relay / control unit located - is it in the passenger side behind the glove box?
Electrics are not my strong suit.
Where and what would you suggest I start checking to get the diff lock back into service please?
Thank you!
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Check earth point at left rear quarter panel, and under front of RH front seat. That's where the relays in the control unit, and the RDL detect.switch take their earth from.
Both the CDL and RDL lights get +12v from the same fuse, 7.5A MET.
The RDL motor gets it's earth from "Set bolt of cowl side J/B RH", which i think is the same location as the control unit/relays for the DL, behind the RHS kick panel.
But the relay coils (and the rdl indicator light) get their earth from the location mentioned above (1st line), so that's where I would start looking.
See attached diagram which is for 8.2003 to 7.2004 production of the RHD HDJ100. See 2nd page (411), bottom right corner when holding page in landscape mode.
Both the CDL and RDL lights get +12v from the same fuse, 7.5A MET.
The RDL motor gets it's earth from "Set bolt of cowl side J/B RH", which i think is the same location as the control unit/relays for the DL, behind the RHS kick panel.
But the relay coils (and the rdl indicator light) get their earth from the location mentioned above (1st line), so that's where I would start looking.
See attached diagram which is for 8.2003 to 7.2004 production of the RHD HDJ100. See 2nd page (411), bottom right corner when holding page in landscape mode.
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