Pretty much a standard setup right now. Thanks. I will get a look.
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My 2004 100 Series
- Thread starter adrianr
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Thank you. i'll do that tomorrow.
Did not want to wait until morning. just been out with the multimeter and some longer wire. both earths are good.
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Yes, that sounds normal. Did you look at the schematics? The earth connection goes through a few plugs, which have to be located and tested. But, to start off, you need to measure earth connection from the actual connection point on the relays to a known good earth, and the same from the rdl detect.sw. If that is good, you have to think it over again and find another angle of attack. If bad, you have to search for those plugs, BO2, BF3, BI2, and check them. The signal from the rear detection switch also goes through BI2 and BO2.
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Thank you. i did look a them but am not sure how to read them. what you say makes sense and I can see that now on the diagram. the diagrams look lie the diagrams I make when I am building up a database in Filemaker, so hopefully I can find my way around them eventually.
Where are the relays located, please? How are they labelled? I will hunt them down to start with. I am very grateful for your time and guidance.
Happy days. The rear diff lock is working as it should.
There is an element (a big element) of user error here. When I got the truck one of the first things I did was to allow low range without the difflock. Coming from my previous manual 80 I unplugged a connector on the centre diff. This did give pretty harsh gear changes in low.
Yesterday I was thinking back to that event and wondered if that is causing a problem with the rear difflock?
So I removed the orange latex glove fingers I had cable tied over the plug ends and reconnected the plug.
About an hour back I found a gravel car park and in low ratio the rear locker sprang to life when requested. Then it was a reasonably straightforward if fiddly job to do the pin 7 mod on the relay behind and left of the glovebox and now everything is working the way I want it.
Many thanks for your suggestions.
There is an element (a big element) of user error here. When I got the truck one of the first things I did was to allow low range without the difflock. Coming from my previous manual 80 I unplugged a connector on the centre diff. This did give pretty harsh gear changes in low.
Yesterday I was thinking back to that event and wondered if that is causing a problem with the rear difflock?
So I removed the orange latex glove fingers I had cable tied over the plug ends and reconnected the plug.
About an hour back I found a gravel car park and in low ratio the rear locker sprang to life when requested. Then it was a reasonably straightforward if fiddly job to do the pin 7 mod on the relay behind and left of the glovebox and now everything is working the way I want it.
Many thanks for your suggestions.
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I noticed the front left brake pads were missing the rattle spring - I found a few pieces of it all chewed up on the clip, so a quick job today. They are not cheap at 7.48 plus VAT.
I also noticed the boot on the front left ball joint is perished. I have a couple of new ones on the shelf so I'll get those fitted this week.
Also decided to trim the rear plough (tow bar) I am planning to do some easier lanes next weekend and the rear plough has already dug into the ground so I removed about 40 mm off the bottom. Was a long job with a grinder.
I also noticed the boot on the front left ball joint is perished. I have a couple of new ones on the shelf so I'll get those fitted this week.
Also decided to trim the rear plough (tow bar) I am planning to do some easier lanes next weekend and the rear plough has already dug into the ground so I removed about 40 mm off the bottom. Was a long job with a grinder.
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Pics of your rear plough?
Dreaming of doing up my 100 with front and rear steel bars. First pick it apart completely to get rid of rust, and then put it together with only good parts, new pipes, etc. -- If I only had a place to do it.
Dreaming of doing up my 100 with front and rear steel bars. First pick it apart completely to get rid of rust, and then put it together with only good parts, new pipes, etc. -- If I only had a place to do it.
That sounds like a fine dream.
I would also like steel bumpers on my 100, I think I would be best then to delete the AHC and stick on a set of Dobinsons or similar that might handle the weight better. Still just thoughts for now as currently the AHC works well. When I did all the checks on the AHC as I changed the fluids and got the front ride height corrected and the same both sides, it came up fine. I also fitted new springs for good measure at the rear. I have been looking at the bumpers on Alibaba, they seem good value.
The "plough" after I cut some off. I have a nato hitch I took of my 80 that I can attach if I want to. For now I have cable-tied the power plug up behind the rear bumper.
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