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New member, starting refurbishment of 1980 BJ44

Progress indeed.

Well the second picture of this latest batch got me all fired up as on the LH side of the photo it looks like the front body(tub) mount has been raised up. Luckily a photo later on enabled me to get my heartbeat back to normal!!!!

Yes the workshop do need to remove that false cross member that's been added to the front member and new body mounts should eliminate the problem

Regards,

Rodger
 
Already told him and being cut off and steel ground and primed.
Myanmar is famous for improvising and do funny things, so not surprised that things pop up.
 
Hi,
It will be interesting to see how the new wings turn out.
The guys are pushing along quickly with the rebuild and I'm emjoying your photos.

Regards,
Rodger
 
Will post until finished and appreciate any comment along the way.
Today the steel bar on front frame will be removed.
Does the bracket/hinge on top of the bar go onto the main frame or is this one not part of the original car ?
Tomorrow frame will be turned for clean up and painting and starting to clean up engine and gearbox.

New fenders are being made since they had too much rust. But, being made on no cure, no pay basid and I have a set at hand that s in fair condition that can be used if it fails.

Quite a few older cars littered around in Rangoon, like this one.... looks like an early 70 Ford
 

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Hi,

The bracket shown in photo 3 mounts to the original front cross member and supports the bottom of the front valance. Your bracket has had a new top piece added that has square corners whereas the originals have rounded corners. The positioning needs to be exact for the front body alignment but I suspect that when the extra bar is removed the original placing will be visible.

Regards,

Rodger
 
Things moving forward. New bumpers made in same steel thickness and shape.
Looks like the steering unit has a broken bracket, that have made some damages to the attachment point on the frame.
Doors and other parts being stripped for paint and work in engine (runs perfect, so just need to replace some hoses and other.
A bit generous with the paint maybe, now 2 layers of epoxy and next is all in black color.

Got an offer for a complete new set of Ironman Shocks, new springs/lifting kit. Price about 3000 USD for all as per attached.
 

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Hi,

As you say, perhaps a little generous with the epoxy but no matter except where the pads and shoes for the brakes are going to be in contact. Also on the caliper pistons as the paint will get broken up and therefore suseptable to water ingress which would undermine their work. Also, I think, it would make your brakes a bit odd until the paint is worn through.

I am still amazed at the condition of the bodywork - just so rust free!

I think you have found why the steering was so erratic with the broken mounting bracket and the damage to the chassis but both are repairable or in the case of the steering box, replaceable.

The suspension should be good, what lift are you going for?

Are you going for the satin black again?

Regards,

Rodger
 
I will have the excessive paint matters taken care of and thanks for advising.
For a lift, I think the guy from Iron man said 4 inches with the package suggested.
In the rainy season, many of the roads get flooded and pretty deep. We have bought a little remote beach and to get there we need to drive down a nice firm sandy creek, where water levels go to about 80cm, so having a good lift is possibly not a bad idea.

I am open to ideas on what cor on the body. It was white when I bought it. See picture.
 

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As for the excessive paint, they will fix this up and remove. Great to have eyes watching and guiding :)

Here in Burma, where the country have been isolated for decades, they have managed to keep old things working and cam do so for a hundred years I believe.
They are also clever at making something brand new, look like 100 years old in record time.
Getting this car back of the road in good working order, actually don't have to buy any parts. Whatever needed, they will make.
Not, that I intend to, but if parts not at hand, there is always a solution here. Getting engine or gearbox problem in the middle of nowhere at 2 am is not a problem.
A local mechanic will appear magically from out nowhere and have things back working in a matter of hours.

A few years ago a big S shapes rubber tube for the cooling/radiator system on my BJ44 blew at 11 pm near a small local village. Steam everywhere and all water gone in seconds. After a few minutes, 5-6 guys showed up and used their mobile phones as flashlights, while the local workshop hero, dismantled parts to get to the hose and then using bicycle hose and other to do repair. One hour later, I was back on the road with fresh water and even anti-corrosion/coolant in the system.
No one wanted payment, but happy to take a few cans of beer.
 

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With your country having been so isolated for so long, it has made the people very self-reliant which is excellent. The guys turning up in the middle of the night and fixing the hose is a superb example. Unfortunately weatern society has lost many of those attributes but friends and friends through forums do help each other, which is always good.

Colour is such a personal thing but it may be worth you looking at www.cruiserfaq.com as in section 13 they have the factory colours and codes for different years and something may catch your eye. Although there are some beautiful colours around these days I prefer the classic opaque colours on a 40.

The beach sounds pretty cool and the 4 inch lift will help thise trips.

Regards,

Rodger
 
Still studying the colors and still kind of like the cool black satin.....
Progress despite the COVID lock-down we have. People work from home also here, but the guys doing the work live on the same street and doing car restoration from home is not so easy....

Now doing priming of doors, bonnet and other parts.
 

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Update 150620
 

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Another couple of Landcruisers in need of some TLC. Owner asking 850 USD for the one on the Facebook picture.
The other one with the funny tank at the back a couple of hundred USD.
 

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IMO the one with the tank on the back started life as an early factory soft top, going from the shape of the rear of the door opening. Quite rare I would think but undoubtedly a lot of work needed but the price is right.

Good progress on your truck and good to see the lads getting into bits that often get neglected - inside the bonnet corners.

Good work.

Regards,

Rodger
 
More progress
 

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They don't intend to use any putty, but say that high sold epoxy paint and primer surfacer can fix the damples.
 
Yes that's good. The less bondo/filler/putty that is used the better.

Quality high build epoxy primer is good stuff.

Regards,

Rodger
 
Ordered the full Ironman package today for better ride comfort.

Question:
The B engine runs like clockwork, but not much power there. Should I consider to put something more powerful inside ?
Or put back in the 2B engine that I have found with previous owner. This one can handle a turbo, which the B engine cannot I think.
 
IIRC you said the B runs well and reliably whereas your 2B was a bit up and down. There is only 8bhp and 10ft lbs more in the 2B. I cannot comment on the merits of either with a turbo because I have never had one as my 40 has a 2H.
But I would suggest reading the relevant section of www:ih8mud.com It can be a bit overpowering at first glance but if you scroll down the 40 section there is a load of threads relating to the diesels and I would expect there to be answers in there.
Don't forget to come back here though!

Regards,

Rodger
 
Hehe,,,, will stay here and post pictures until car back on the road.
On second thoughts, I have never been stuck. No matter how bad driving conditions, lack of roads and deep mud, she has been getting me to where I want to go.
Since Myanmar is a big country, 2.5x UK and with very few roads. But, many ox cart and elephant tracks, where I can drive, saving hundreds of miles by going across instead of around.
 
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