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Oil

Springate’s

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great_britain
Had an interesting discussion about engine oil a little while back with some very experienced LC enthusiasts. The consensus was to ignore the recommended 5w30 for the 150 series 1KD (98,000 miles) and use 10w40 instead for better protection and longevity.
Thoughts?
 
and use 10w40 instead for better protection and longevity.

Agreed, especially with engines with a few miles on them. Anything with the latest 0W20 oil sound very "boney".

I use 10W40 in all I own.

If you watch YouTube channel " LR Time", although a LR based theme the guy on there calls it "5 dumbass 30" and blames all the V6 engines woes on the oil being too thin for purpose.
 
Think I investigated this very question one sleepless night quite some time ago and concluded Toyota's choice is a catchall for global extremities of weather .

UK doesn't have extreme weather .
 
Agreed, especially with engines with a few miles on them. Anything with the latest 0W20 oil sound very "boney".

I use 10W40 in all I own.

If you watch YouTube channel " LR Time", although a LR based theme the guy on there calls it "5 dumbass 30" and blames all the V6 engines woes on the oil being too thin for purpose.
Any particular brand, Andy?
Fully or semi-synthetic?
 
I generally run 5W40 full synth in the 1KD and thats what went in the other day following cambelt and water pump change, it also goes in the Forester.

When i first got the motor the engine oil would darken more rapidly than i liked following oil change despite it good SH, so i bought some 10w40 Diesel specific semi synth in the (probably mistaken) belief that oil specifically for Diesels ought to have superior detergent content, got through a 20 litre pack in a few short changes following which the oil stays cleanish now for nearly 1000 miles, same as my Hilux 3.0 litre did when that was new.

Its not easy to find Diesel specific 5W40 except for VW spec probably meant for their PD engines, which i'm unsure about.

I usually get Fuchs, but have used all sorts of makes over the years when there's a 20 litre bargain, interestingly the engine seemed noisy/rattly when i used Shell Helix so won't use that again, and years ago my 70 series sounded like the big ends were about to drop out when i used Comma.

I don't use 5W30 either, gnats piss.
 
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Was David Cox put me onto it originally said he's used nothing else in all his trucks for years . Given he was using it in Pierre Whites turbo charged 1HZ at the time about says it all .
 
Just did oil and filter, using Castrol Magnatec 5W40, will see how we get on. Decided to preserve the lower value for start-up protection, but for summer values in Europe I didn’t think the 30 was high enough….
 
Changed mine at the weekend to Valvolene Synpower 10W40. Its noticeably quieter on start-up. Will monitor over the next few months; I’m changing it every 5K miles.
 
Not Landcruiser in any way but JCB had issues with turbo failure on their 444T engine with VVT Turbos .... this is normally a bomb proof engine and we didn't see failures .... recommended oil was a high spec 15W40 oil...... after investigations JCB changed the spec to a "cold climate 5W40" oil for the UK . It seems on start up the original oil was too viscous and the turbos were suffering oil starvation at start in the winter . Since changing the oil spec the failures have all but gone away..... with no part number change to turbos I presume they are unchanged . We see no issues with the engine caused by thin oil in the hot summer weather .

I agree the 5W seems very thin but oils are much more than viscosity today and the 5W40 has a very high film strength .....
In all honesty I can't see why a different grade oil should make an engine quieter on start up.... especially a modern close tolerance engine .

If that was the case the engine should be noisier after an oil change because you have just replaced thicker contaminated by soot oil with clean thinner oil ? .... not doubting any reports from people who have changed viscosity oils ......just can't understand why it makes the engine quieter .
 
Years ago, a workmate of mine mixed 80w gearbox oil with the engine oil in his knackered Triumph Dolomite to stop the low oil pressure light coming on and it worked long enough for him to sell it. It also quietened the engine down somewhat.:laughing-rolling:
My understanding of oil specs is that viscosity and film strength are not directly related. Viscosity affects flow rate whereas film strength, which prevents bearing and component wear is more down to the oil formulation and additives. If most engine wear occurs during cold starts then correct viscosity/flow rate are just as important as film strength.
On a tired old engine a thicker oil may well reduce engine noise but a thinner oil will protect the engine just as well.
 
Not Landcruiser in any way but JCB had issues with turbo failure on their 444T engine with VVT Turbos .... this is normally a bomb proof engine and we didn't see failures .... recommended oil was a high spec 15W40 oil...... after investigations JCB changed the spec to a "cold climate 5W40" oil for the UK . It seems on start up the original oil was too viscous and the turbos were suffering oil starvation at start in the winter . Since changing the oil spec the failures have all but gone away..... with no part number change to turbos I presume they are unchanged . We see no issues with the engine caused by thin oil in the hot summer weather .

I agree the 5W seems very thin but oils are much more than viscosity today and the 5W40 has a very high film strength .....
In all honesty I can't see why a different grade oil should make an engine quieter on start up.... especially a modern close tolerance engine .

If that was the case the engine should be noisier after an oil change because you have just replaced thicker contaminated by soot oil with clean thinner oil ? .... not doubting any reports from people who have changed viscosity oils ......just can't understand why it makes the engine quieter .

What you say makes absolute sense.
However twice in my various LC's i've found two different oils to result in the engines sounding like a bag of nails, not necessarily cold start but general running.

First time was decades ago in my 3 litre 70 series, i put 15w40 (going from memory here) Comma Diesel oil in at oil change time and after a few weeks the engine soon sounded like the mains or big ends were shot, worried me advised by a very skilled LC mechanic to change the oil immediately which worked, er, immediately and that engine sounded sweet for years after.

Spotted some Helix synthetic at a bargain price (the well known people in Cornwall so definately no fake stuff) weeks later the current 120 engine sounded like the proverbial skeleton in a biscuit tin on, again changed that for whatever i bought at the time and all has been well since and continues to be so.

Don't ask me what was going on in either of these cases, i go a lot by what the old shell likes tell me regarding engines and other mechanical things for better or worse.
 
I too think of going 10W40 or 5W40 (used by Jamie ‘project 200’) after talking to Andy and seeing recommendations on here. Toyota initially gave 5W30 oil to me. For first few oil changes I only got oil from Toyota. Now I am ordering 20lt packs of any brand that matched previous Toyota spec.
Couldn’t move to 10W or 5W40 as every time I will be left with some from the previous can and just order the same 5W30 again. I am not confident on breaking this chain and mixing leftover 5W30 with 5W or 10W40.
 
Presumably you have the added complication of DPFs Raj?
Don't you need low saps oil with the appropriate C number, i've not looked at those myself as have so far avoided DPF but can you even get 10w40 in low saps spec?
 
Presumably you have the added complication of DPFs Raj?
Don't you need low saps oil with the appropriate C number, i've not looked at those myself as have so far avoided DPF but can you even get 10w40 in low saps spec?
Yes I have DPF and need low SAPS ACEA C2 spec. In this spec 5W30 is the only widely available option
 
I'm half tempted to use 0W40 to match my car, but the price puts me off, it would simplify things though.
 
Yes I have DPF and need low SAPS ACEA C2 spec. In this spec 5W30 is the only widely available option
Worth enquiring at Agricultural suppliers or plant suppliers.....
JCB do a 5w40 engine oil that's OK for their DPF's and EGR systems..... it's called "cold climate 5W40 "
10W40 is common in many tractors that have DPF's.....
 
YYY
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