Sounds like another frustrating day 
Did you try an ECU swap? At least that doesn't involve taking the oil pan off again!
Did you try an ECU swap? At least that doesn't involve taking the oil pan off again!
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OK, so why won't my 80 move forward in Drive?
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
OK, full time score. Had enough.
Neutral start cured. P, R, 2 and L lights all light up in the correct place. D light is duff. Where did Toyota by their instrument lights from in the 90's? They are all shocking.
Pan refitted, fluid added, same result, just creeps forward very slightly. Didn't try the ECT swap as it looked a little BBQd under there. Probably a waste of time.
Can't see anything else in the FSM that would help other then it's the actual transmission and it FUBAR. Looks like a swap huh?
Chris
(slightly dejected, but knew this might be the case all along)
Rear wiper still working
Yea!
Neutral start cured. P, R, 2 and L lights all light up in the correct place. D light is duff. Where did Toyota by their instrument lights from in the 90's? They are all shocking.
Pan refitted, fluid added, same result, just creeps forward very slightly. Didn't try the ECT swap as it looked a little BBQd under there. Probably a waste of time.
Can't see anything else in the FSM that would help other then it's the actual transmission and it FUBAR. Looks like a swap huh?
Chris
(slightly dejected, but knew this might be the case all along)
Rear wiper still working
Yea!
I think you've confirmed the solenoids and wiring should work if power is applied to them, but haven't yet established the ECU is powering them (e.g. internal component failure, dry joint etc) 
2 options IMO both involving tapping into the solenoid wires close to the ECU, either by removing a small amount of insulation or a scotch lock. 1st option, with the engine running and the box in D, check there is 12v going to S1. If there isn't 12v, add your own 2nd option, if there is 12v going to S1, try connecting S2 to 12v and see if there's any drive (that would be forcing 2nd gear instead of 1st).
2 options IMO both involving tapping into the solenoid wires close to the ECU, either by removing a small amount of insulation or a scotch lock. 1st option, with the engine running and the box in D, check there is 12v going to S1. If there isn't 12v, add your own 2nd option, if there is 12v going to S1, try connecting S2 to 12v and see if there's any drive (that would be forcing 2nd gear instead of 1st).
Thought about creating a dummy signal Jon, just ran out of time and energy today. That and the gallons of ATF everywhere.
I think that's deff worth a try. I shall see if I can get some time in the week, although I'm out every day from Monday.
If that doesn't work then it's time to start disconnecting the old box from GW. Well, at least I don't have any connections to undo! Few bolts and it'll be free!
I presume that the driven side of the TC is dry? In other words I can drop the whole thing with fluid in? OK easy to drain, but I'm running out of old oil drums!
Sorry Rob, posts crossed. True, but you really need to see the car and stick your head in to smell it. Lying on my back in the footwell full of black sludge to get the ECT unit is not something I'd relish. I'll give it a look though of course.
Chris
I think that's deff worth a try. I shall see if I can get some time in the week, although I'm out every day from Monday.
If that doesn't work then it's time to start disconnecting the old box from GW. Well, at least I don't have any connections to undo! Few bolts and it'll be free!
I presume that the driven side of the TC is dry? In other words I can drop the whole thing with fluid in? OK easy to drain, but I'm running out of old oil drums!
Sorry Rob, posts crossed. True, but you really need to see the car and stick your head in to smell it. Lying on my back in the footwell full of black sludge to get the ECT unit is not something I'd relish. I'll give it a look though of course.
Chris
Graham
Well-Known Member
.Jon Wildsmith said:I think you've confirmed the solenoids and wiring should work if power is applied to them, but haven't yet established the ECU is powering them (e.g. internal component failure, dry joint etc)
I have used a sewing needle in times gone by.
Short length of wire throuh the eye.
Use pliers to push the pointy end through the insulation.
Just an idea.
G.
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Dave Docwra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2010
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Chris, please be very careful of touching the burnt wiring as it can cause acid burns to your skin for years to come..
I still think them boxes can be totally disconnected electricaly & will still drive in R & 1st & 2nd gear..
I love my ediot button
I still think them boxes can be totally disconnected electricaly & will still drive in R & 1st & 2nd gear..
I love my ediot button
Someone better tell Dave what I do for a living. 
Don't worry Dave. Safety is my middle name but thanks for the warning. Luckily there isn't actually much wiring left. Really trying to stay out of the engine bay. There is nothing in there that left, other than the injectors.
Spent a couple of hours stripping the old bus tonight. Just a bare shell on a rolling chassis now. I shall just cut the body bolts and it will be ready for tipping it off into the flower bed.
This will let me get at the transmission from above. If I can get an engine hoist, I can lift it clear or at least lower it to the drive nice and easy. I shall stick the whole thing in. I know that it ran well before the fire and it doesn't seem to have been touched. All I need is a new TPS cable and I shall be ready for a rumble.
Rock and roll.
Chris
Don't worry Dave. Safety is my middle name but thanks for the warning. Luckily there isn't actually much wiring left. Really trying to stay out of the engine bay. There is nothing in there that left, other than the injectors.
Spent a couple of hours stripping the old bus tonight. Just a bare shell on a rolling chassis now. I shall just cut the body bolts and it will be ready for tipping it off into the flower bed.
This will let me get at the transmission from above. If I can get an engine hoist, I can lift it clear or at least lower it to the drive nice and easy. I shall stick the whole thing in. I know that it ran well before the fire and it doesn't seem to have been touched. All I need is a new TPS cable and I shall be ready for a rumble.
Rock and roll.
Chris
Chas
Well-Known Member
I've got one of these;Graham said:
Dunno what you'd call it, it's made by Draper, but I can't find it listed on their site.
Has a sharp pointy thing that pierces the insulation with a window in the body that lights when there is continuity and has a screw on cover to protect the point, and your fingers
Dave Docwra
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,591
Someone better tell Dave what I do for a living.
Are you with the Foresty Commission?
OK, I see we've given up trying to fix my gearbox then!
Just about ready to try and get the bodyshell off the chassis now. Everything is pretty much cut or disconnected. Not sure how heavy a plain shell is though.
Chris
Just about ready to try and get the bodyshell off the chassis now. Everything is pretty much cut or disconnected. Not sure how heavy a plain shell is though.
Chris
