Prado 95 transfer case issue

[MODVRS]

You could try lifting all the wheels off the ground and have another go, this would at least eliminate transmission wind-up as the cause.

 

[BobMurphy]

I have tried back and forward a dozen times, could anything been broken? I was thinking of removing the transfer case and taking it apart on the table, do you think it would be overkill?

Not overkill, but it depends on whether you intend to keep the car for a long time or not, rebuilding a transfer box can be expensive.

Does the Transfer lever move easily for its whole travel? on the Auto the transfer lever tower sits on an extension piece that links the gearbox and the transfer box, the two selector shafts stick out of the front of the box and I have seen them heavily corroded. If they are moving freely then stripping the TB is probably the best solution to the problem.

If the TB lever is stuck then the selector shafts can be cleaned-up once the box is removed but the box doesn't have to be stripped. The TB weighs 50 kilos so be careful when removing it.

Have you taken a TB apart before?? You will need some heavy-duty tools as the companion flange stake nuts are torqued to 87 ft/lbs, which doesn't sound a lot but can be extremely tight after years of use. I have made a special locking bar to hold the flanges while levering the nuts with a power bar and a scaffold pole!

The rear cover has to be heated to remove it.

Watch out for some small ball bearings that lock gears/spacers to shafts and can easily drop out unnoticed.

Before taking the rear cover off remove the two plugs, springs and detent balls along with the interlock plunger from the rear of the selector shafts. There is a 'procedure' for putting these back on re-assembly.


Corroded Selector shafts on an 'Auto' Transfer Box:-

Removing the Stake Nuts:-

Selector Shafts in position - the sprung one is for the diff lock:-

A few pictures that I hope will help. I have many more if you are stuck!

Good luck.

Bob.

 

[Simon Olesen]

You could try lifting all the wheels off the ground and have another go, this would at least eliminate transmission wind-up as the cause.

I have tried lifting all 4 wheel same result

 

[Simon Olesen]

Not overkill, but it depends on whether you intend to keep the car for a long time or not, rebuilding a transfer box can be expensive.

Does the Transfer lever move easily for its whole travel? on the Auto the transfer lever tower sits on an extension piece that links the gearbox and the transfer box, the two selector shafts stick out of the front of the box and I have seen them heavily corroded. If they are moving freely then stripping the TB is probably the best solution to the problem.

If the TB lever is stuck then the selector shafts can be cleaned-up once the box is removed but the box doesn't have to be stripped. The TB weighs 50 kilos so be careful when removing it.

Have you taken a TB apart before?? You will need some heavy-duty tools as the companion flange stake nuts are torqued to 87 ft/lbs, which doesn't sound a lot but can be extremely tight after years of use. I have made a special locking bar to hold the flanges while levering the nuts with a power bar and a scaffold pole!

The rear cover has to be heated to remove it.

Watch out for some small ball bearings that lock gears/spacers to shafts and can easily drop out unnoticed.

Before taking the rear cover off remove the two plugs, springs and detent balls along with the interlock plunger from the rear of the selector shafts. There is a 'procedure' for putting these back on re-assembly.


Corroded Selector shafts on an 'Auto' Transfer Box:-

View attachment 335182


Removing the Stake Nuts:-

View attachment 335183



Selector Shafts in position - the sprung one is for the diff lock:-

View attachment 335184



A few pictures that I hope will help. I have many more if you are stuck!

Good luck.

Bob.

Thanks the shifter move easyli I'm planning on keeping it love the old lady. If you shud gess is it broken or just stuck in rust and stuff, it runs great no odd noise or nothing. And I think I kan manage the job have been fixing a lot of manual gearboxes

 

[Simon Olesen]

Not overkill, but it depends on whether you intend to keep the car for a long time or not, rebuilding a transfer box can be expensive.

Does the Transfer lever move easily for its whole travel? on the Auto the transfer lever tower sits on an extension piece that links the gearbox and the transfer box, the two selector shafts stick out of the front of the box and I have seen them heavily corroded. If they are moving freely then stripping the TB is probably the best solution to the problem.

If the TB lever is stuck then the selector shafts can be cleaned-up once the box is removed but the box doesn't have to be stripped. The TB weighs 50 kilos so be careful when removing it.

Have you taken a TB apart before?? You will need some heavy-duty tools as the companion flange stake nuts are torqued to 87 ft/lbs, which doesn't sound a lot but can be extremely tight after years of use. I have made a special locking bar to hold the flanges while levering the nuts with a power bar and a scaffold pole!

The rear cover has to be heated to remove it.

Watch out for some small ball bearings that lock gears/spacers to shafts and can easily drop out unnoticed.

Before taking the rear cover off remove the two plugs, springs and detent balls along with the interlock plunger from the rear of the selector shafts. There is a 'procedure' for putting these back on re-assembly.


Corroded Selector shafts on an 'Auto' Transfer Box:-

View attachment 335182


Removing the Stake Nuts:-

View attachment 335183



Selector Shafts in position - the sprung one is for the diff lock:-

View attachment 335184



A few pictures that I hope will help. I have many more if you are stuck!

Good luck.

Bob.

Hi Bob I tok the TB off today and took it apart its broken the diff lock with all the planetary gears in are cracked (no wonder it wouldn't come loose by it self) can you help me?

 

[Simon Olesen]

Not overkill, but it depends on whether you intend to keep the car for a long time or not, rebuilding a transfer box can be expensive.

Does the Transfer lever move easily for its whole travel? on the Auto the transfer lever tower sits on an extension piece that links the gearbox and the transfer box, the two selector shafts stick out of the front of the box and I have seen them heavily corroded. If they are moving freely then stripping the TB is probably the best solution to the problem.

If the TB lever is stuck then the selector shafts can be cleaned-up once the box is removed but the box doesn't have to be stripped. The TB weighs 50 kilos so be careful when removing it.

Have you taken a TB apart before?? You will need some heavy-duty tools as the companion flange stake nuts are torqued to 87 ft/lbs, which doesn't sound a lot but can be extremely tight after years of use. I have made a special locking bar to hold the flanges while levering the nuts with a power bar and a scaffold pole!

The rear cover has to be heated to remove it.

Watch out for some small ball bearings that lock gears/spacers to shafts and can easily drop out unnoticed.

Before taking the rear cover off remove the two plugs, springs and detent balls along with the interlock plunger from the rear of the selector shafts. There is a 'procedure' for putting these back on re-assembly.


Corroded Selector shafts on an 'Auto' Transfer Box:-

View attachment 335182


Removing the Stake Nuts:-

View attachment 335183



Selector Shafts in position - the sprung one is for the diff lock:-

View attachment 335184



A few pictures that I hope will help. I have many more if you are stuck!

Good luck.

Bob.

Hi again sorry for the many questions do you know if it's the same TB on a 2000 model with a 1kd engine as the 1999 model with 1kz-te?
Simon

 

[BobMurphy]

Simon,

I believe the Transfer Boxes are the same (remembering that those from an 'Auto' are different to those from a 'Manual') - but I have never had one from each side by side to compare.

You have your box apart and the Centre Diff Lock Planet Carrier is broken (not uncommon), why not just fix the box you have ??

The last new Planet Carrier I bought came from Amayama in 2015 and cost £148 - so not enormously expensive.

There will, of course, be other components that you may wish to replace, bearings, gaskets, the Hi-Vo chain and so on but if your TB is basically good it shouldn't cost a fortune. The really expensive ones I've done were full of water and rusted-out inside !

My worry about buying a TB from a 'Scrapper' is that you don't know the history and you may end-up buying trouble.

A couple of pictures to inspire you (!).

Good luck with it.

Bob.

 

[Simon Olesen]

Simon,

I believe the Transfer Boxes are the same (remembering that those from an 'Auto' are different to those from a 'Manual') - but I have never had one from each side by side to compare.

You have your box apart and the Centre Diff Lock Planet Carrier is broken (not uncommon), why not just fix the box you have ??

The last new Planet Carrier I bought came from Amayama in 2015 and cost £148 - so not enormously expensive.

There will, of course, be other components that you may wish to replace, bearings, gaskets, the Hi-Vo chain and so on but if your TB is basically good it shouldn't cost a fortune. The really expensive ones I've done were full of water and rusted-out inside !

My worry about buying a TB from a 'Scrapper' is that you don't know the history and you may end-up buying trouble.

A couple of pictures to inspire you (!).



View attachment 335242



View attachment 335243



Good luck with it.

Bob.

She is pretty messed up. It's my daily driver so can't really

Simon,

I believe the Transfer Boxes are the same (remembering that those from an 'Auto' are different to those from a 'Manual') - but I have never had one from each side by side to compare.

You have your box apart and the Centre Diff Lock Planet Carrier is broken (not uncommon), why not just fix the box you have ??

The last new Planet Carrier I bought came from Amayama in 2015 and cost £148 - so not enormously expensive.

There will, of course, be other components that you may wish to replace, bearings, gaskets, the Hi-Vo chain and so on but if your TB is basically good it shouldn't cost a fortune. The really expensive ones I've done were full of water and rusted-out inside !

My worry about buying a TB from a 'Scrapper' is that you don't know the history and you may end-up buying trouble.

A couple of pictures to inspire you (!).



View attachment 335242



View attachment 335243



Good luck with it.

Bob.

Hi it's pretty messed up. And it's my daily driver so I can't really do without it the Planet Carrier and house, washer all is pretty toast. And parts are really expensive in Denmark maby some day I will rebuild it I found one with "low" kilometers on it and one year warranty for 7500 dkr