rear axle housing/diff question

[Beau]

Long story short, I've been keeping my eye out for a rear axle here in the states as many 4runners share the same axle. However, many of them run a LSD diff, and very few have the diff lock version.

I've just come accross a rear axle in pretty good condition and priced well but it is the LSD diff version. Now, my question is, is it possible to swap over my current diff into this LSD diff case, as well as the front drive flange piece, in order to maintain having my diff lock.

Appreciate any thoughts and input. Here's a link to the axle. http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/5974399996.html

By the way, my housing isn't in bad shape but 20 years in the UK has taken it's toll. At that new condition ^ I'll be pretty happy knowing I'm set for an additional easy 20 years.

 

[MarkW]

Dang that's it good knick and cheap!

I don't think the diff locked diff will fit with the locker the casing has a squarish cut out for the locked version

 

[Beau]

hmm just did some more research and although possible, it seems 4 new holes have to be drilled and threaded for the casing bolts, and a piece welded on to shape the square edging to match the diff lock area like you mentioned. Plus the hull of the actual casing needs to be a touch deeper. May be too much work considering I don't really need one. Will keep my eye out for the right one!

 

[MarkW]

Milners have brand new casings in stock £600 for the diff lock and abs version, guess postage could be a headache for you. (the pics on the site show the difference nicely)

 

[Beau]

If I was really stuck and needed one, and was in the UK, I wouldn't see it as a bad investment. But my axle seems to be holding up alright so far. Just need to keep on top of it on a yearly bases. Being 5 miles from the coast means I'm in the salt bands and exposed metals get eaten up fast!

The rear diff/axle housing casing tend to go for around $400 due to the difflock, but if I get one in good condition I may be able to get at least 75% of that back with mine, so I don't see it as a issue. Probably more straight forward as well rather than messing around with swapping things.

 

[Shayne]

Might sandblasted , Zinga and topcoat give you a few more years .

 

[Beau]

Sure will, if not more. But have you seen the condition of that one in my link? It's like new. ..

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Beau. for $100 and a solid case I'd have that in in a flash. In reality having a working diff lock vs an LSD on the rear axle only would make sod all difference except you know when the power is on on the LSD will lock up every time.
For 99.9% of normal driving a diff lock isn't necessary and in my limited experience of having 6 Cruisers with the LSD fitted is that they are just as capable in the 0.1% of situations when you need one.

 

[Beau]

Beau. for $100 and a solid case I'd have that in in a flash. In reality having a working diff lock vs an LSD on the rear axle only would make sod all difference except you know when the power is on on the LSD will lock up every time.
For 99.9% of normal driving a diff lock isn't necessary and in my limited experience of having 6 Cruisers with the LSD fitted is that they are just as capable in the 0.1% of situations when you need one.

hmm Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm also on the road 99% of the time, but am planning on touring america so with that aspect wanted to retain the diff lock. But your point is very valid.

However, I've heard after a lot of miles the LSD clutches wear and it doesn't work as well as a brand new LSD would. Any comments about this?

Anyway with that thought, does anyone know how I can find out my Diff ratio? I have a 1997 colorado, UK spec, Auto with Diff lock from factory...

 

[Shayne]

Ratio can be found on the front axle tube , big white sticker .

I think the Prado 90 has lsd instead and something i read somewhere in the past suggests to me it is usually not expected to be in working order when you buy a used truck . Maybe it fails through lack of use like our locker often does ?

 

[diggerdave]

The only 100% reliable way of finding out your ratio is to physically check. There is a post on PradoPoint about deciphering your axle code, but I've read it can sometimes be unreliable. As Shayne says you can tell from the sticker on the front axle as long as you know what the code means (there are several different codes, but I've never found a list of what they all mean)

Double-checking physically is much easier than it sounds. There are loads of guides all over the net but this is how I did it:

1. raise a front wheel, nearside is easiest, and support it securely and in a way that it's free to turn, centre diff unlocked, gearbox neutral;
2. put a mark on the raised tyre (helpful to have something on the ground like a pebble next to it as a reference point);
3. put a mark on the diff pinion flange. Make a temporary reference point next to it to take the guesswork out (I used a long nail crocodile-clipped to the steering pipework);
4. Turn the raised wheel twice while at the same time watching the mark on your flange and counting;
5. If after 2 turns* of the tyre, the flange has rotated 4.1 times, your diff is 4.1:1;
6. If you want to be really anal, measure the diameter of the diff flange with a tape (350mm IIRC), divide by 10, and that's the length of .1 rotation... There really is a lot of difference between .1 and .3

* It has to be two turns because of how diffs work. One wheel on the axle is stationary, so the other has to go twice as far to get one rotation of the crownwheel.

 

[Shayne]

R16 = 4.100
R17 = 4.300

 

[Beau]

Pretty sure I recall seeing a R16 label on the front diff, but I'll have to re-check. If that's the case, that axle/diff will go straight in.

 

[MarkW]

Its also on the Vin Plate, look for the A0 code

4.100 diff no LSD possibly manual lock A01B
4.300 Diff no LSD possibly manual lock A02B
4.300 Diff with LSD A02A
4.100 Diff with LSD A01A