Hi there,
I have a problem with my read diff activation.
I recently purchased a replacement genuine "T"rear diff lock actuator from Milner off road. Last time I used them was abou 8 years ago and they didn't carry much for the 100 series.
I fitted the actuator as per manual instructions and it still doesn't work. I've been looking at the FSM and a manual I purchased from Milner.
With the engine running and driving back and forward the RR diff red symbol illuminated on start up and stayed on. It felt like the truck didn't want to turn so I think the diff was definitly engaged ( I had. To engage the diff to fit the actuator as per manual installation process)
I've checked the actuator ball bearing switch continuity O.K and this goes from flashing to SOLID and back to off When removed and manually depressed by a friend whilst I turn the switch on/off.
I have checked the RR Dif dash switch continuity this appears fine.
Before I replaced the rear Diff actuator when the switch was turned the abs symbol would illuminate and the red Rear Dif light would flash but not go solid. The diff was seriously rotten so I know it couldn't have worked.
The middle diff seems to switch on/off fine. when the engine is switched off you can hear a 1 or 2second fast wirr noise as it engages/disengages.
The diff/abs lights also appears to work in Low box as described in the FSM and other manual.
I have tried to follow the FSM diagnosis section.
The selector fork inside the diff appears to manually disengage easily when back axel if jacked up.
RR dish dash Switch o.k
Couldn't locate the "Rear diff ECU" the FSM diagram is seriously basic. I did however find a "computer 4WD system" block with a 10 pin connector located under the dash on the offside wall. Can anyone guide me to the Rear Diff ECU? Do I check the input or output of the ECU?
The FSM also covers using the main heater relay, car battery and lots of bespoke wires with connectors between the three components to test the actuator. Is this test done directly onto the rear actuator side of the multi pin connector (five wires). Can I do this test with the actuator removed? As I've put the old one back on for now to allow me to drive safely as I felt the diff fork moved to freely and could engage around a extreme corner and send me off the road! The old one is well seized so I can't see it allowing the fork to enguage! Fingers crossed!!!
It also mentions jacking up the entire vichicle during the above ECU diagnosis. Is this critical to the diagnostics?
Do / should I check continuity between ECU output and the multi point connector just before the actuator. The FSM doesn't seem to have a wireing diagram for the diff system and the Milner manual seems to have completely different coloured wires my actuator has: thick Green, thick Green red stripe, yellow, green and black all going to a 6pin connector with pin 1 missing. Both new and old connectors look identical.
Does the ECU controll all diffs? As I'm nearly certain my mid-diff works as it should.
Does anyone have a used but Fully funtional Rear Diff ECU I could buy/try?
Regards,
ed.
I have a problem with my read diff activation.
I recently purchased a replacement genuine "T"rear diff lock actuator from Milner off road. Last time I used them was abou 8 years ago and they didn't carry much for the 100 series.
I fitted the actuator as per manual instructions and it still doesn't work. I've been looking at the FSM and a manual I purchased from Milner.
With the engine running and driving back and forward the RR diff red symbol illuminated on start up and stayed on. It felt like the truck didn't want to turn so I think the diff was definitly engaged ( I had. To engage the diff to fit the actuator as per manual installation process)
I've checked the actuator ball bearing switch continuity O.K and this goes from flashing to SOLID and back to off When removed and manually depressed by a friend whilst I turn the switch on/off.
I have checked the RR Dif dash switch continuity this appears fine.
Before I replaced the rear Diff actuator when the switch was turned the abs symbol would illuminate and the red Rear Dif light would flash but not go solid. The diff was seriously rotten so I know it couldn't have worked.
The middle diff seems to switch on/off fine. when the engine is switched off you can hear a 1 or 2second fast wirr noise as it engages/disengages.
The diff/abs lights also appears to work in Low box as described in the FSM and other manual.
I have tried to follow the FSM diagnosis section.
The selector fork inside the diff appears to manually disengage easily when back axel if jacked up.
RR dish dash Switch o.k
Couldn't locate the "Rear diff ECU" the FSM diagram is seriously basic. I did however find a "computer 4WD system" block with a 10 pin connector located under the dash on the offside wall. Can anyone guide me to the Rear Diff ECU? Do I check the input or output of the ECU?
The FSM also covers using the main heater relay, car battery and lots of bespoke wires with connectors between the three components to test the actuator. Is this test done directly onto the rear actuator side of the multi pin connector (five wires). Can I do this test with the actuator removed? As I've put the old one back on for now to allow me to drive safely as I felt the diff fork moved to freely and could engage around a extreme corner and send me off the road! The old one is well seized so I can't see it allowing the fork to enguage! Fingers crossed!!!
It also mentions jacking up the entire vichicle during the above ECU diagnosis. Is this critical to the diagnostics?
Do / should I check continuity between ECU output and the multi point connector just before the actuator. The FSM doesn't seem to have a wireing diagram for the diff system and the Milner manual seems to have completely different coloured wires my actuator has: thick Green, thick Green red stripe, yellow, green and black all going to a 6pin connector with pin 1 missing. Both new and old connectors look identical.
Does the ECU controll all diffs? As I'm nearly certain my mid-diff works as it should.
Does anyone have a used but Fully funtional Rear Diff ECU I could buy/try?
Regards,
ed.