Rear heater bypass

[Knucklehead]

Guys, hoping can get some advice.

Long story short, I managed to track down an ever increasing loss of coolant.

Turned out when the garage fitted my g'box back after a new clutch couple of years ago they managed to bend the end of the breather up against the metal rear heater hose behind the manifold and its wore a hole in the pipe. Seems every time I am rarely forced to use garages I end up with more problems than I started with!

Looking the engine bay, I can see the coolant pipe that is leaking running down the firewall behind the exhaust manifold and the second pipe seems to be on the other side of the block near a 'U' type bend running down the firewall?

Would really appreciate if anybody could advise on quick engine bypass that's not permanent as plan to cut out the damaged metal pipe section when get time as the rest of the pipework seems sound. Would be great if have any pics/parts used.

Cheers,
Dave.

 

[white90]

Take the pipes off that run to the rear heater then loop a piece of heater hose to the connections.

 

[Chris]

Yep, Whitey nailed it in one. 10" bit of toob should do it.

 

[StarCruiser]

You can in fact just blank them off as the rear heater is plumbed in parallel with the main one. Mines been like that for 2 years at least. Easiest thing to blank them is some 15mm copper plumbing pipe with a blank soldered on or use push fit plastic. Fits a treat in place of the metal pipes that disappear down the firewall.

 

[white90]

Yep, Whitey nailed it in one. 10" bit of toob should do it.

Whitey? In this day and age that could be misconstrued as racist lol

 

[Knucklehead]

Thanks for replies.

Just so I am 100% sure and don't cook my motor, if I understand diagram below, the bit marked in red(B720BC) is where the damage is. This pipe is connected to the T piece(B7209). On the other side there is another T piece(B724BB) which seems to run off through the firewall and also connects to the second coolant pipe. Case of just joining some hose between the two T pieces or alternatively block off the metal end pieces(marked blue)?

 

[StarCruiser]

You won't cook it. Whatever happens to the heater, the engine still cools through the rad. If you look at the drawing, you'll see the valve shuts off both dash and rear heater blocks.

 

[kevsta]

here's mine done in red for easy following you can see the 2 redundant downpipes below.

 

[Chris]

Nice job!

 

[chapel gate]

I think the rear heater gets a bit of a hard time. People disconnecting the poor thing without a second thought..

I use mine all the time in winter. I dont like the front heater blowing in my face or on my feet. Passengers in the back like it too.

 

[Towpack]

+1.

 

[frank rabbets]

I took my gearbox out to find corroded heater pipes so replaced them as below. This gives the benefit of turning off the heater in the summer or if a leak occurs.

 

[MSJW]

here's mine done in red for easy following you can see the 2 redundant downpipes below.

View attachment 137480

For clarity can someone please confirm if it’s just the two hoses in the middle of Kevs post that need connecting together (assuming these are a just out and return hoses)? Does anyone happen to know the diameter hose required to do so?

Cheers