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removing the back sliding small windows

We use the sliding windows a fair bit, for access and ventilation. The load guard stops easy access to the passenger area if someone breaks in through them and when racked out for camping the top shelf bars anyone getting in through the window anyway.
 
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Ok so I will keep the sliding windows and look to replace the rubbers as I am getting water in the rear quarter panels when it rains. Perhaps just a strip and clean will solve the issue.
 
warrenpfo said:
Ok so I will keep the sliding windows and look to replace the rubbers as I am getting water in the rear quarter panels when it rains. Perhaps just a strip and clean will solve the issue.
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The leak is most likely to be the trim strip along the top of the wing just below the windows. The 3 rubber gaskets fail, simple fix just pop it off, clean and reseal with a bit of silicone sealant instead.
 
Thanks Jon I will take a look. Is it trim off after window out or can I do it with the window in place??
 
warrenpfo said:
Thanks Jon I will take a look. Is it trim off after window out or can I do it with the window in place??
Click to expand...
Window in place, just prise it upwards, really easy, if it looks tricky you're looking at the wrong thing
 
What a coincidence that this thread has resurfaced, I have just had the windows done.:thumbup:

I bought a pair of windows from a chap calling himself 80breaker on eBay. The windows came and I was really disappointed to see that they had been etched with a registration number. This would not normally have been a problem but the etching had been done with a Dremel and an old school style stencil kit. The letters were 20mm high and the reg was 120mm long, in the middle of the glass. This was never mentioned to me when I bought them, so to say I was miffed was an understatement!:icon-evil:

I then decided to go to Toyota and see how much the glass was from them and if they could still get it. The answer was £120 per window and I could have them by middle of the following week as it was an optional fitment on the UK models. I was feeling flush and so I ordered them. The rubbers were another story though, yes they could still get them but at £70 each plus VAT I decided to use the ones I got with the etched windows.

2 weeks later I was booked into Autoglaze of Kilmarnock to have the rear windows limo tinted. While it was in they removed my sliding windows and fitted the new single piece ones at no extra charge. The only thing I had overlooked was the exterior vents on the back of the windows are different to the sliding ones. I went back to Toyota and ordered the correct ones and had to have a sit down as they cost £72+VAT each!!:icon-surprised:.

I'm glad I got the job done though because when Autoglaze took out the rear windows they found a bit of corrosion that was hidden by the rubbers. I'm booked into a body shop in Kilmarnock to get this sorted and also get them to sort out the bubbling around the windscreen and I'm getting a new screen and seal at the same time.

I will post up pictures when the jobs complete:thumbup:
 
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What have you done with your old sliding window rubbers and glass as I may be interested??
 
I still have them here. I'm in the process of packing up for a house move so unfortunately I have buried them in my lock up behind a load of boxes. Once I have moved house I might be tempted to part with them:icon-wink:
 
Sorry for jumping onto this thread +2yrs late but I just experienced all of what is being talked about in this thread.

Jon is quite correct in that the leaks that I have found in the rear were not caused by the sliding split window (no physical ingress to the interior by the window) but by the trim piece below it; there's 4 plastic clips with little rubber hole gaskets that are supposed to keep water out but over time they dry out and water leaks in and onto the pedestal jack and will soak the cargo deck matt, that's your tell. Be careful when pulling the trim piece, it's thin aluminum and the clips are plastic, so it will deform easily and the clips will either stay in, detach, or break, and mine had a lot of mung under it. Silicon or RTV around the holes and under them in the quarter panel works; I used marine grade 3M trim sealant, but that's just me in Seattle where it rains a lot.

For the sliders in the rear, I was replacing the outer gasket and inner slide gasket and they are an amazing bear in how they seal with overlapping rubber to keep the water out. I used bicycle tyre irons to help and cord to re-fit them in. I spoke to my dealer and the whole glass panels are still available with gaskets for pretty reasonable, and as Ecoman pointed out, you will have to replace the rear cargo vent covers (8mm stud with 2 clips) and they're pricey for what you get; I sealed the areas around the body clips and the cargo vent as you cannot access these from inside the vehicle just to make sure they stayed water-tight. I'm still debating on the whole glass option as I don't use the sliders anymore and I'm always worried about someone prying open/breaking the slider.

Thank you all for all of your tips and insights!
 
for protection (on our year long PanAm trip) I put in wooden dowels on the inside so the windows couldn't be forced open. Had seen this as an issue with other overlanders (easy to push/pop the window open)
 
2A5806C6-B46A-4073-8D5E-D6EC332600DC.jpeg


I thought I’d pull mine out for a clean , not to bothered about how it went because I had my mind set on a single sheet of glass non opening window at a later date .
All is reusable but in a sorry enough state I would like to replace with new and taking about it to the mrs she pointed out the very obvious I had missed in my solid window idea , “you never use aircon you always have windows open instead”

But no luck as yet in finding a full new and complete sliding window set .
 
They don’t look too bad Shayne. The rubbers clean up well with warm water and a Brillo pad in the bath, just wait till Helen’s out else you’ll get the wax loosened in your ears. The black marks in the bath do come off. Honest.
 
They are in the bath soaking now and it was Helen's idea :shock:

Corrosion on the aluminium frame is the worst of it but it hasn't lost shape so a wire brush and some spray on zinc should sort it . It's shocking how brittle the glue/sealer/silicone whatever it is has gone .

I haven't forgotten about your gullwings by the way i just can't at present think of a valid use for them while i aim to keep the 7 seats .
 
If you’ve got brittle sealer around and it’s grey, it could be Arbomast and it’s useless due to it cracking. It does more harm than good. Toyota use a non setting mastic but I’ve yet to come across any round sliding windows but the fixed ones often have it between glass and rubber.
Go steady with the Ally. A scotchbrite is often the weapon of choice as it’s less aggressive than a wire brush and Acid Etch primer is the stuff though it’s more important to keep the drain channels clear and note the tape style covers/flaps to the holes at the base.

I figured you weren’t going the gullwing route Shayne as you want the seats, so it’s no bother.
 
Mine looking kinda similiar. Just a lot of TLC cleaning it up. Went back together ok. Didn't need any sealant. Overall main black rubber seal was in good shape
 
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