Repairing scratches.

[scooby]

I know this will seem an elementary question but I don't do bodywork. While the good lady was in the supermarket the other day some retard scraped/pushed/propelled one of the large trolleys into the n/s wheel arch on our Landcruiser. It seems a bit OTT to take it to a body shop for a touch-up and I wondered if anyone would be kind enough to tell me how to repair the damage. I know that there are cheap repair kits available where you just put your Reg. No. into the advert and you get the colour that you need (alledgedly). Surely there are RAL codes which are used somewhere ?

I wondered what people's experience was of these kits, which ones to avoid, and the best way to sort out what is an annoying problem. Apologies for the image quality, it was in the car port and the sun was shining.

 

[Towpack]

I'm no expert either but what I'd do with that is flat the damaged area up to the wheel arch crease, then mask and rattle can spray it. The crease will help to blend in the repair but I see it's metallic which can be a mare to match.
I use a motor factors near me in Bolsover in Derbyshire who do colour mixing/matching and they do a perfect match for mine. Prior to that I tried the colour matching machine in Halfords but it came out a tad too dark and they couldn't tweak it as is was fully automated and just mixed the colour to a fixed set of parameters of the colour code.

 

[scooby]

Many thanks for that @Towpack. Much appreciated. Just to clarify if I may, flatting the damaged area is sanding it with wet/dry ? I know nothing about what grades I should use. You are correct it is metallic and I hadn't even thought about that. Are metallic paints available ? I do have a workshop compressor and could spray it using a spray gun but that seems a bit OTT for such a small area. Does such a job need to be undercoated and/or primed first ?

 

[adrianr]

I know this will seem an elementary question but I don't do bodywork. While the good lady was in the supermarket the other day some retard scraped/pushed/propelled one of the large trolleys into the n/s wheel arch on our Landcruiser. It seems a bit OTT to take it to a body shop for a touch-up and I wondered if anyone would be kind enough to tell me how to repair the damage. I know that there are cheap repair kits available where you just put your Reg. No. into the advert and you get the colour that you need (alledgedly). Surely there are RAL codes which are used somewhere ?

I wondered what people's experience was of these kits, which ones to avoid, and the best way to sort out what is an annoying problem. Apologies for the image quality, it was in the car port and the sun was shining.

View attachment 335379

Depending on how deep the scratches are - if it is just the clear coat then previously I have managed to remove a lot of scratches using some 2000 or 3000 grade wet and dry with soapy water and very light pressure. Take your time and finish off with some polish.

 

[Towpack]

Many thanks for that @Towpack. Much appreciated. Just to clarify if I may, flatting the damaged area is sanding it with wet/dry ? I know nothing about what grades I should use. You are correct it is metallic and I hadn't even thought about that. Are metallic paints available ? I do have a workshop compressor and could spray it using a spray gun but that seems a bit OTT for such a small area. Does such a job need to be undercoated and/or primed first ?

Some of the deeper scratches look like they're down to the primer, possibly even the metal so will need something like 200 grit to start and get the area smooth and flat and finish with 400 ready for paint. As adrianr has said, clearcoat scratches can sometimes be buffed out with very fine grade paper and/or cutting compound but the damage on yours looks beyond that TBH. Mine is a non metallic colour and needs primer, colour coat and laquer. Yours will be the same.

 

[alby79]

You'd sort that out in no time with a touch-up kit and not much money.

Aerosol Touch Up Paint Kit With Primer & Lacquer - Jawel Paints - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

 

[Towpack]

Upol is the brand I got from the local motor factor. I used them for a motor cycle colour I had no code for. They were able to scan and match a mudguard I took as a sample and it was bang on.

 

[scooby]

Depending on how deep the scratches are - if it is just the clear coat then previously I have managed to remove a lot of scratches using some 2000 or 3000 grade wet and dry with soapy water and very light pressure. Take your time and finish off with some polish.

Thank you for that @adrianr, much appreciated. I am certain that the scratches are down to the primer or undercoat or both because of the difference in colour.

 

[scooby]

Some of the deeper scratches look like they're down to the primer, possibly even the metal so will need something like 200 grit to start and get the area smooth and flat and finish with 400 ready for paint. As adrianr has said, clearcoat scratches can sometimes be buffed out with very fine grade paper and/or cutting compound but the damage on yours looks beyond that TBH. Mine is a non metallic colour and needs primer, colour coat and laquer. Yours will be the same.

Thank you for your help again @Towpack, much appreciated. Yes, certainly down to the primer, not sure it it's down to bare metal. Must have a closer look. Pardon my ignorance (again !) but can you buy metallic paint of any colour ? I had always assumed that it was put on in a special process or something special had been added to the normal colour.

 

[scooby]

You'd sort that out in no time with a touch-up kit and not much money.

Aerosol Touch Up Paint Kit With Primer & Lacquer - Jawel Paints - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]

Thank you @alby79, that sounds too easy. My life doesn't work like that normally ! But if you are sure is there any particular touch-up kit you would recommend ?

 

[scooby]

Upol is the brand I got from the local motor factor. I used them for a motor cycle colour I had no code for. They were able to scan and match a mudguard I took as a sample and it was bang on.

Thank you yet again @Towpack, I am appreciating all this help I am getting. Actually now I remember it I have been to a local industrial paint shop for tractor paint that I didn't have the RAL code for and they matched it well but I was able to take something in with me so they were able to match it.

 

[Towpack]

There are numerous processes and recipes for metallic paint finishes. I've no idea how it was applied in the Toyota factory but with rattle cans you're pretty much stuck with primer, base coat and laquer. The paint code doesn't account for weathering on a vehicle decades old which will affect some colours more than others so may not be a perfect match. Thats where paint scanning scores if it's available.

 

[scooby]

There are numerous processes and recipes for metallic paint finishes. I've no idea how it was applied in the Toyota factory but with rattle cans you're pretty much stuck with primer, base coat and laquer. The paint code doesn't account for weathering on a vehicle decades old which will affect some colours more than others so may not be a perfect match. Thats where paint scanning scores if it's available.

Thank you @Towpack - very helpful yet again. I had thought about the weathering concept, the Cruser is an 06 reg. But it is always kept inside and because of where it is on the front of the wheelarch I think the paintwork is still good. You will all have realised by now that I know nothing about paintwork but am I correct in thinking that with damage such as this it will have to be sanded down, then a primer and undercoat (in what order ?) and then top coat after having masked all surrounding paintwork ?