Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

SKF speedi sleeve ....

Lexie

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
294
Country Flag
great_britain
Any you guys tryed and tested these...?

Am preparing myself for what i may need as the front seals i put in about 6 month ago from Mr T arent holdin it at all.

Wer did you purchase from?
Do you need an exact measurement of shaft?
 
Yes.
https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/
Yes (between two limits set out in their brochure)

But. It's not necessarily the shafts, nor the seals. Some wear in the shaft is perfectly acceptable. If you take a worn shaft and put a seal on it (on the bench) you'd be very surprised at how tight it is. If they are worn to the point that they won't seal then you need more than the speedi-sleeve. I did a post on them somewhere. Errmm....
 
Yes.
https://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/
Yes (between two limits set out in their brochure)

But. It's not necessarily the shafts, nor the seals. Some wear in the shaft is perfectly acceptable. If you take a worn shaft and put a seal on it (on the bench) you'd be very surprised at how tight it is. If they are worn to the point that they won't seal then you need more than the speedi-sleeve. I did a post on them somewhere. Errmm....

Fully understand, i hope its a poorly fitted seal just preparing for every eventuality. 207k miles so not crazy in LC terms
 
You can change the seating position on the seal if needs be. If the wear on the shaft is quite far back then you can just not knock the seal in quite as far. You've several mm to play with.
 
The size you need is in my write up.
 
The size you need is the size that you measure I'd suggest. They may all start off the same size in the factory but how can you say they all wear to the same size? I'm interested not arguing.
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Thanks for the replys lads. Am hopeing its a badly fitted seal or slight movement of the new seal will sort it. Il report back
 
Im happy to be proven wrong, but i cant imagine the entire width of the contact surface of the sleeve being worn down on the shaft. I used a locktite bearing compound to fill in any troughs in the surface of the shafts, as the sleeves are malleable.
what is the next size sleeve down out of interest? What size was yours chris?
 
Thanks for the replys lads. Am hopeing its a badly fitted seal or slight movement of the new seal will sort it. Il report back
For what they cost and how easy they are to fit, i would just fit the sleeves tbh. After a complete rebuild mine still leaked, fitting the sleeves sorted it. Theres nothing worse than doing the rebuild including all the cleaning involved only for the dreaded slop to start oozing past the wiper seals..
 
I filled mine with liquid metal then stuck it in the lathe and sanded it back to level. Can't recall the size but regardless, I'd measure mine then order rather than take someone else's measurement - no offence
 
Just as a general comment here, I’ve used speedi sleeves on and off for the past 30 years and they are an excellent product (well, they are made by SKF) that do an excellent job. With the correct size, you’ll probably think it’s too tight to begin with but they’ll fit if your measurements are right. If a bit tight, warming them up (on a radiator or other low heat) soon makes them a bit bigger. Gently and accurately does it. They have a driving flange which can either be left on if the application allows or peeled off after snipping through to a score line.

Chris’s instruction about filling in the groove is a good one. I’ve never done it to motor shafts personally but wouldn’t think twice with the half shafts, you just don’t want to do a revisit on your revisit.
 
I think the only part to wear and reduce in size from the original dimension would be where the seal sits. Maybe not all shafts from the factory come in an exact predictable size so its best to measure the shaft and then order he correct sleeve. The wear groove in the shaft acts like a flat belt pulley in reverse so when the shaft is turning the seal climbs up to the highest point and wobbles fore and aft as there are 2 high spots. This creates a gap when the seal straddles the groove and oil come out. That's my theory anyway lol.
 
I'd agree Frank. The problem can be though that following a succession of seal changes, CVs etc etc that the shaft / seal might not have always sat in exactly the same place for all of its life leading to differing wear patterns. We know that there is end float in the whole set up and given that oil is held against the seal on the inside by a retaining ring, I think that diff oil gets sort of 'milked' through the seal when it moves back and forth. If the whole area is smooth then this doesn't happen but as you say, where there are grooves worn in the shaft, the oil gets through. But not, I'd suggest because the seal doesn't touch. I have put a seal back onto a worn shaft and it still touches even in the groove. Hence the idea that it gets pulled, sucked, milked or whatever via the wear groove into the swivel. Slight wear might not seem an issue but if as we suspect, that difference in diameter leads to even a small amount of oil bleeding through then using a sleeve is the right answer every time.

My issue is that no matter what I seem to do, my front diff oil turns to soup in only a few hundred miles. I've had the diff out, rebuilt it, cleaned the axle tubes thoroughly, replaced the inner oil seals, have no evidence of oil in the hubs and yet each time I come to inspect the oil, it awful. I've tried different oils, jacked the vehicle one side then the other to drain it, put oil through as a wash out and yet it's the same every time. I changed it before Russia, did 4000 miles, got back and it's the same. Breather is clear and raised and there's no leaks. It does this regardless of road miles or river crossings. If it was grease getting into the oil, it would only do this for a limited time until there was no grease against the inside of the seal. This has been going on for the last 5 years!

I don't get it.
 
No Grant, it's not. Just up to the edge of the hole. And it doesn't seem to lose any at all and there's never any pressure build up either. The rear diff oil still looks like new whenever I check it. Transfer box fine too. It's just that damn front diff that turns it strange. There's no particular swarf build up on the magnetic plug either and it's as quiet as you like.
 
I'd agree Frank. The problem can be though that following a succession of seal changes, CVs etc etc that the shaft / seal might not have always sat in exactly the same place for all of its life leading to differing wear patterns. We know that there is end float in the whole set up and given that oil is held against the seal on the inside by a retaining ring, I think that diff oil gets sort of 'milked' through the seal when it moves back and forth. If the whole area is smooth then this doesn't happen but as you say, where there are grooves worn in the shaft, the oil gets through. But not, I'd suggest because the seal doesn't touch. I have put a seal back onto a worn shaft and it still touches even in the groove. Hence the idea that it gets pulled, sucked, milked or whatever via the wear groove into the swivel. Slight wear might not seem an issue but if as we suspect, that difference in diameter leads to even a small amount of oil bleeding through then using a sleeve is the right answer every time.

My issue is that no matter what I seem to do, my front diff oil turns to soup in only a few hundred miles. I've had the diff out, rebuilt it, cleaned the axle tubes thoroughly, replaced the inner oil seals, have no evidence of oil in the hubs and yet each time I come to inspect the oil, it awful. I've tried different oils, jacked the vehicle one side then the other to drain it, put oil through as a wash out and yet it's the same every time. I changed it before Russia, did 4000 miles, got back and it's the same. Breather is clear and raised and there's no leaks. It does this regardless of road miles or river crossings. If it was grease getting into the oil, it would only do this for a limited time until there was no grease against the inside of the seal. This has been going on for the last 5 years!


I don't get it.

This seems to be the exact same thing as is happening to mine. I too swabbed the inside of the axle tube as much as I could.

Is this the cruiser you put the speedi sleeves on Chris?

I have four theories.
1, that I’ve put the seal in on an angle.
2, that I’ve put the seal in the wrong way round.
3, That I damaged the seal putting the shaft back in. If only there was some way to turn the truck on it’s side to put the half shafts in. :think:
4, that I’ve put far too much grease in the spheres.

I don’t get it either but there’s definitely grease getting into the oil as it’s a greenish grey as opposed to Hypoid colour.

upload_2018-10-18_18-31-1.jpeg
 
Oooh cripes, no mine's not that bad Rich are you sure that's not out of the engine sump?

Really can't remember if this one is sleeved though. I've had 5 of them so it gets a bit vague after a while. But how much grease can it pull through? I generally don't pack the moly grease up against the seal.
 
Out the diff for sure Chris. If they’d worked out how to get smell to travel over the net then it would be obvious but it does look like engine oil I’ll grant you. It’s more green than black though. A bit like the cruiser green. :)
 
Mine's more baby poo brown than black
 
Mine's more baby poo brown than black
What’s the colour of the grease in your spheres Chris? I’m guessing it’s not brown as, if I’m reading this right, you don’t think it’s mixing with the oil.
 
Back
Top