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Stealth LC jump starting...

Sam

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
506
Garage
2 questions really...

1. How many batteries do you need before a quick cold snap doesn't kill your motor????? :naughty: :naughty: :naughty:

2. How exactly do you jump a landcruiser without anyone seeing??... especially neighbours with "those" other 4x4's????????????? Need some ninja techniques here - or failing that some invisible jumper cables that don't require the bonnet to be lifted.

Man, this is not a good morning for the ego! Think I might just go buy some new batteries and slip them in - making it look like I'm simply checking the oil :)
 
Nooo - you don't to be seen doing that either - LCs don't need oil checks between services - its not as though they leak or anything! :lol:

Now, if you were fitting an accessory and had to disconnect the batteries, that would be different, and plausible!

Seriously though - if those are the originals you're doing pretty well. Check with Mr T for new ones - their prices are usually very competitive.

Cheers
 
Spray a little water on your neighbours driveways in the middle of the night. They next morning they will be too busy struggling with ice to notice you "checking the oil".
 
fridayman said:
Spray a little water on your neighbours driveways in the middle of the night. They next morning they will be too busy struggling with ice to notice you "checking the oil".

I like it. :shhh:

Anderson plugs, thats the way to go. mount one in the front grill(connected to your battery).
Second car has one as well...then a set of leads with plugs on......park up close enough, plug in and jump start..all stealthily like.

Must learn how to post pics up, then I could show my plug. :think:
 
:) anderson plug - Like mine

to left of "tow" sticker
very handy
Used it to jump start other cars , no need to lift bonnet, i first turn on battery isolator then plug in anderson lead
2011-12-17%2B12.21.29.jpg
 
Success!

With the LC parked a way down the road (and with a big van parking close in front of me in the night), we ran out of options.

So with SWMBO prepared in her little ninja outfit we made a plan. Stealthy, secret and full of cunning.

First we needed a distraction...

We parked the Focus in the road as close to the LC as we could. With it's amazing sparkly hazard lights flashing it took attention away from the LC (much like a rattle to a baby) - and the resulting queue of traffic created a scene for everyone to concentrate on.... clever diversion! :thumbup:

We then quickly rigged up the leads (passenger side... the right battery???) and SWMBO pulled out the secret weapon. By donning the face of a helpless female that had accidentally parked/broken down in a crazy "middle of the road" type fashion, we managed to convince all and sundry that the LC was in fact jumping the Focus. :dance:

There was the occasional pedestrian and nosey neighbour peeking out to see what was going on - but we dealt with that professionally (by pointing up in the air and exclaiming "Look - a badger with a gun - can you see? can you see?").

All in all a great mission... and not a soul noticed what we were really doing... :whistle:

We are of course available for consultation should you ever require a way out of such a trixy situation.

Like the water distraction - didn't think of that in time... and nice anderson plugs. Sneaky :thumbup:
 
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NEVER EVER use the passenger side battery for jump starting, drivers side only.
 
joinerman said:
NEVER EVER use the passenger side battery for jump starting, drivers side only.

eh? How come? They're in a full parallel config on the 120 - with a fat cable linking the positives and both negatives earthed to the chassis. What am I missing?

Cheers
 
Well it was a 50/50 shot... but drivers side you say? Yippee got it right :shifty: :whistle:

But just out of curiosity... what did I break.. erm.. I mean what "could" I have broken "if" I'd got it wrong?
 
Why ? not sure but all the 80 series cruisers have a warning label attached to the passenger side battery cover with instructions to only use drivers side.
Didn't notice yours was a 120
 
Yep thought that would be it. Don't think it matters on the 120? Or does it? Owners manual doesn't specify which battery (I think).

Cheers
 
joinerman said:
Why ? not sure but all the 80 series cruisers have a warning label attached to the passenger side battery cover with instructions to only use drivers side.
Didn't notice yours was a 120


It must be something to do with the 24volt starting circuit on the 80's, so no problem on the 120 as they sart on 12v.


Joe
 
Mr T wants £160 for 2 batteries.

One @ £69+ and the other @ £49+

I'm told they are different batteries (and they certainly are to look at - one black, one white and terminals on opposite sides).

Also told they connect to start with 24 volts?

Question is... is it worth checking them and trying to charge them, or is it best just to swap them out?
 
Mr T has his wires crossed. My batts are the same besides pole reversal. And a 120 is NOT a 24volt start :lol:
 
Your Mr-T is wrong there. The price, IIRC, is the same for mine. The batteries are handed as you noticed, the positive terminals are inboard and the negatives out.
They certainly do not switch over to make a 24V start.

Try giving Simon or parts king a call on Monday for prices: http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=12491

Depending on where you are, I could bring back from Simon and meet you somewhere? I work around the corner from him. Both also courier.
 
Thanks for the tips chaps. I didn't buy into the 24v start... I've been listening here :thumbup:

Thanks for the offer Crispin - really appreciate that. I thought about it though and decided not only do I need it running reliably by Monday - but I don't really want to be heading down to the pyrenees in the summer on batteries that have failed.

So, quick phone about to find a Mr T with them in stock. Mad panic rush to get there before parts closed... and got some!

£152 was the final figure. Apparently I got a 5% discount because... well not sure... but I didn't argue!

The ones that were in were different sizes and makes etc. - which i'm sure doesn't matter - but I feel better with new ones. No more bonnet up looking silly :pray:

New ones look exactly the same to me - apart from reversed poles - so I don't know what the 60+ for one and 40+ for the other was all about :think:

Anyway... got them. Now just got to get them in without blowing anything up (including me). Tips anyone? I mean about disconnecting order etc. Does it matter?
 
Sam said:
...The ones that were in were different sizes and makes etc. - which i'm sure doesn't matter - but I feel better with new ones. ...

...Anyway... got them. Now just got to get them in without blowing anything up (including me). Tips anyone? I mean about disconnecting order etc. Does it matter?

It is important that the batteries are equal. Different batteries have different charge curves, i.e. the charge level vs voltage is different. They will last longer and work better the more equal they are.

Re disconnecting / exchanging / reconnecting: Doesn't really matter. If you have both disconnected and make the car "voltage-free", you might loose some settings, like radio channels and seat and mirror positions. You can exchange one at the time as the new and old will be connected together only for a few minutes anyhow -- if you like.
 
Thanks uHu. Job done. No sparks. No one died... but my word... it's cold day for spanners!

Two shiny new same-looking good batteries :thumbup:

Clock and radio has reset, obviously - but it's not asking for radio code so all good. And it starts!

Right, what's this I hear about snow? Bring it on!!! :dance:

Edit :: Just in case anyone wants to know...

1. Found a spanner that wasn't long enough to bridge the poles if I dropped it with cold hands.
2. Locked all doors and put ignition key inside the house - just to make sure.
2. Disconnected both negatives and made them safe.
3. Disconnected connecting positives.
4. Old ones out.
5. New ones in.
6. Reconnected connecting positives.
7. Reconnected negatives.
8. Checked everything was tight and tidy.
9. Closed bonnet (waited 5 minutes with doors locked in case ECU needed to cycle?).
10. Opened bonnet to retrieve spanner.
11. Closed bonnet - started - all good.

(Please note that in the event that step 8 is completed properly, step 10 can be safely skipped)
 
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