The only way is up!!!!!!!!

[greengrass]

Having used Little Sluug off road a couple of times, I've realised I need more clearance to stop my towbar acting as a plough and my other half asking" What was that horrible scraping noise??"

I'm thinking of changing the springs and shocks for some 2" lift ones for a start.
I've seen some Rancho ones on roughtrax ,Ironman ones on west coast and o.m.e too obviously.
Just wondered what everyone else has fitted??

Do you need to carry out any further work once these are fittted for everyday usage??
Prop modifications camber adjustment etc??
Or is it just bolt on and go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[froggy Steve]

I was thinking of some of these when funds allow:

http://www.pedders.co.uk/toyota-landcruiser-90-series-kdj95-kzj95-rzj95-vzj95-lift-kit_p23299445.htm

But I dont know anyone that has tried them yet

Steve

 

[greengrass]

Just had a quick look at that Yhey are only about 20 mins drive from me lol

 

[sae70]

I have to say that I'm loving my new KYB 80 series front springs on the rear of mine and could not be happier

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...eries-front-springs-fitted-to-Fierys-rear-end

They were only £65 for the pair and if combined with a pair of 80 series rear shocks (prices vary but about £100 the pair for Monroes) that would be the back end done

Then up front if your still running standard suspension in particular standard struts/shocks then a pair of 25mm Top Strut spacers would be cool. Shayne just got 55mm lift fitting a pair of 25mm Top Strut spacers to the front of his. All of this would be about £100 from off of the bay with a pair of diff drop spacers, but I know someone on here that has a pair of front Top Strut spacers kicking around his garage that would be slightly cheaper I'm sure and I've a set of six Hi-Tensile bolts with the heads machined down to 4mm thick that would go well with them. They wouldn't be massively pricey I'm sure

You could be all done for around £265 including dropping the front diff

I do need to update my 80 series spring lift thread as I've made some significant findings with regards to Top Strut spacers and extended travel struts/shocks!!! The up shot is that the thickest Top Strut spacer you can reasonably fit with struts/shocks with extended travel is 6mm, but I'm sure with standard length struts/shocks a 25mm Top Strut spacer would be fine. With extended struts/shocks and a Top Strut spacer any thicker than 6mm you get massive top ball joint bind!! In particular on the O/S with an aftermarket lift kit IM, OME etc due to the slightly longer spring that they all seem to supply?! You could possibly get away with a 10mm Top Strut spacer on an already lifted truck if it wasn't for the slightly longer O/S spring!

If you did decide to keep the front end standard and use Top Strut spacers to gain the lift you could still fit a pair of new KYB standard springs (around £60 the pair) or maybe even a pair of up-rated Milner ones. It's the length of the struts/shocks that need to remain standard if using thicker Top Strut spacers.

Re-cap

Rear suspension
New 80 series KYB front springs £65.00 the pair.
New 80 series Monroe rear shocks £100.00 the pair.

Front suspension
25mm Top Strut spacer and Diff drop spacers £100.00 for both sides.
Leaving the rest as is.

Total £265.00

New 90 series KYB front springs £60 the pair.
New 90 series standard length Monroe front shocks £75.00 the pair.

Total for all new suspension plus lift £400.00

It's just an alternative idea for lifting a Colorado that I've been kicking around for three or four weeks now

 

[sae70]

Forgot to mention, the only other couple of items to keep an eye on when doing this is that many seem to think that it's necessary to extend the length of the rear bump stops by 10mm when using 80 series rear shocks on the Colorado and you would need to make certain that the front bump stops were still limiting the upward travel of the suspension and not the shocks topping out following fitting the Strut Top spacers. You should also look at extending the length of the rear brake bias valve bracket, but there is some built in adjustment in this that seems to be enough for most.

 

[greengrass]

I did read your posts re Fiery's rear end the other week, its almost a twin of my Sluug apart from the mods.
I was thinking about putting longer shocks and springs to give me a bit more travel and articulation rather than just space it out.
If I went for the springs/shocks option (no spacers) would I still get the problems with ball joints, bump stops and need to space the front diff as you've described??
The kit from pedders is £500 inc vat seems not bad value if you've not got to mess about with other bits

 

[sae70]

You get the extra droop with Strut Top spacers as you've moved the strut down by 'X', so the droop would be as good as with extended length shocks. It's the compression that may be slightly effected, but to be fair with springs from out of a lift kit they are going to be a job to fully compress compared to a more compliant standard spring and I would surmise that you'd not notice a significant difference in droop and compression between Strut Top spacers and Extended travel shocks. The front shocks that are supplied with the Ironman lift kit allow the suspension to droop within about 15mm of the top ball joint binding and I would think that the OME kits the same! This is why a combination of Top Strut spacer and Extended travel shock are not a good combination! Absolutely fine for everyday use and gives a descent lift when combined, but when at full droop the thing that stops the suspension going down any further is the Top Ball Joint. I know because I've had a very good play just of late and the other thing is that it would be almost physically impossible to get a 25mm top strut spacer in place with a lift kit fitted without a massive amount of sweat and effort, especially on the drivers side due to the longer spring!!

I've been running my truck lifted with no Diff Drop Spacers fitted up until now, but I have to say that they do make a massive difference to the CV angles when they are fitted. Does this make a difference to the longevity of the CV's? Who knows?! Mine have been fine up until now

Before spacers;


After spacers;


The spacers;


What you have to do to the belly pan to get it to fit back on after fitting diff drop spacers! You also need to fit 14mm spacers behind each of the two front belly pan center bolts, seven 10mm washers on each in my case;


I don't know very much about the Pedders lift kit, but if it were me doing this again I would be fitting the 80 series springs and shocks in the rear and the OME springs and shocks up the front and may consider the diff drop kit, but wouldn't spend to long worrying if I had not fitted it Hope this Helps

 

[wobbly]

It may well also be worth considering swapping the arb drop links, Ive just done mine (well, doing...). I found the standard ones were working at an angle, one had snapped (rubber cover was split so crap got in I guess). Terrano rear going on front, and putting front landcruiser ones on to the back.

Ive got an ironman lift and shocks, no problems with it at all.

Cheers

Pete

 

[sae70]

What measurements have you guys got and with what loads, bumpers, winches, fuel, tools etc. Oh and what suspension?

measure along a vertical center line through the wheel from the under side of the plastic molding to the top of the wheel rim.

Wobbly, I can see you have an Ironman lift. Your front measurement is of particular interest and greengrass if yours is still bog standard then your measurements would be very interesting

edit - I removed my rear ARB when I fitted the Ironman suspension lift and have never felt I need it back even with the 80 springs, but at the same time I removed the front!!! That soon went back on OMG! I've left the drop links as they are for now (standard), but I remove the front ARB for PP's and Lincomb and the like. Its never caused me any troubles when I've been out laning for a weekend.

 

[sae70]

I just had to nip back and post my thoughts quickly with regards the extended length ARB links

I'm not convinced that they offer any benefit and would be very happy be proven incorrect, but the longer ARB links don't increase front droop as the top ball joint binds long before the ARB link limits the droop. So in my mind no advantage gained there and because the ARB link is now longer will it not just limit compression?! If not limit it, make the vehicle over sprung and unbalanced before full compression is gained and remove the control and compliance that you want from the coils, say for instance if the ARB was completely removed!

I'm still not sold on the longer ARB links thing and probably never will be until it's clear what the advantage is of them

 

[Chris]

Steven, I think that the longer drop links simply server to return you roll bar to a more neutral position to start with. Now when both wheels go up and down together, there is no torsion in the bar, is there. So it doesn't matter where it is. In that respect, it makes no difference. When I did mine, I looked at the angles it went through and determined that when articulated (with lift fitted) the drop link was lifting the wheel. I actually undid the nut to see how much. Now of course it will do that, that's what the ARB does. But, I found that with the longer links and the roll bar starting off in a more natural position, it gave me more drop. On their own, you are wasting your time. You need to sort the suspension first. It's of limited effect, but I'm pretty sure it made a difference. The whole thing looked more comfortable.

C

 

[greengrass]

Lots of good ideas from everyone, If or rather when I do the lift I want to do it right for mine and the trucks benefit.

Thats why I wondered what other mods might be required to make it all work correctly and not cause any long term damage to the driveshafts,propshafts and other suspension/transmission components.

So let me try and re-cap on what I've learn't so far.
Fitting longer shocks and springs may require fitting a spacer to the front diff, adjustment of the brake limiter valve and longer arb drop links( Is that front and rear or just front Pete/Chris??)
No modification to ther props required.

Will I need to adjust the camber on the front end???

Please let me know if I've got that right so far guys.

I'll get those measurements for you Steven, my truck is totally stock as far as I know. My truck has the d-4-d lump in it not sure if that would make any difference to the ride height over your model as I'm lead to believe its a much lighter lump.

I'd rather do it all in one hit than fit the shocks and springs and then keep modifying it until its right.

 

[wobbly]

I intend to change all 4 drop links, mainly because I have a set of brand new LC fronts spare....

I dont know if the longer drop links will have a massive, or minor, or any, effect, but I can say for definite that running on roads/motorways without any was not great, far more vibration felt through the steering.

Its also an incredibly simple job, if it wasnt for the squirrel it would've taken me about 15 mins, rather than 3 hours (see seperate thread!) and a head injury.....

the Terrano droplinks are not as heavy looking as the LC ones, but they are about 2cm longer, and they went in easily, versus the LC droplink that was seized at quite a steep angle and had snapped.

Pete

 

[Darrellspeed]

ARB drop links

guys can i ask which longer arb links you used? and where to source them please, just lifted mine and think the new angles look hideous, so would much prefer to get back to a more neutral angle.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chris Green90]

+1 for what Steven said (sae70) I have pretty much the same setup. But if I was starting from new now knowing what I know all I would do is 80 series front springs on back and rear shocks. and Top spacers on the front. (assuming everything else is in good condition). The biggest thing for me is that it makes replacement parts (if broken or damaged) so much easier and cheeper to get hold of.

 

[wobbly]

Darrell

You should use Nissan Terrano rear drop links on the front of your LC, and then put your LC front drop links on to the back.

Doesnt matter which year Terrano, drop links the same, will set you back about £15.oo

Cheers

Pete

 

[Darrellspeed]

Darrell

You should use Nissan Terrano rear drop links on the front of your LC, and then put your LC front drop links on to the back.

Doesnt matter which year Terrano, drop links the same, will set you back about £15.oo

Cheers

Pete

Ideal thanks Pete. Front ones weren't much cop. Would terrano ones fit on the rear? As seemed to restrict the drop when fitting 80 series springs. Or are they too long?

 

[Chris Green90]

Take the rear one off completely would be my advice

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Doodle]

Too long, they hit the radius arms.

I wouldn't remove the ARB on a 95 though if you value any sort of on-road handling.

 

[Chris Green90]

IIRC Little Slug is a 90