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Thinking about a test drive in a 100 series

Ben Stratford

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Ok so I want to test drive a 100 series and carry out a pre purchase inspection.

Could someone advise how to engage low range and engage the 3x diff locks please. What sequence should be adopted? Is it the same as an 80? My 60 doesn’t have diff locks and I haven’t had an 80 for 10 yrs now so I’m a bit hazy on the process.

The target vehicle is a 4.2 turbo diesel 1HD- FTE manual gearbox version.

Are there any mechanical weak spots to check that are specific to the 100 series?

I’ve had 40 / 60 / 80 / 90 series before so of course I will check for rust!

thanks in advance

Ben
 
Only two diff locks with the 100 having IFS. Rear locker is inoperable on the vast majority unless rebuilt. Is it a GX model you're going to see?
 
I tried a VX manual 100 years ago. It was akin to driving a van in traffic compared with the VX auto I'd gone down in. If its a GX with the far more durable cloth seats and steel suspension it could be a good move.
As Jake said, finding one with a working rear locker would be a challenge, nearly as much as a decent condition GX model.
Look really really hard at the rust aspect as the vast majority are getting seen into.
 
You can engage center diff lock in either hi or low range with dash button below the aerial up and down button, amber warning light should illuminate, select neutral, move H / L lever to L, center diff should engage and amber warning light shoud illminate, engage rear diff lock, ABS warning should illuminate and the red rear diff lock warning light will flash until the diff lock engages. You cant engage rear diff lock in high range. hope that helps.
 
Thanks guys, yes it’s a GX with std suspension and nice cloth seats. Didn’t consider the ifs not having a diff lock - thanks for that.
Yes it’s rust that is the main concern so I’m not getting my hopes up at all.
Will report findings!
Cheers ben
 
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Lovely interior Andy, Engine bay not bad but underneath and bodywork was very rusty.
I don’t want a second money pit!
Perhaps I should wait for a 2007 model to show up with 10 yrs less rust then get it treated immediately.
Even more undecided now so will wait and see
 
Don't dismisse japanese imports.

This is the one i now own- have a look at the underside

Its now been professionally rust proofed and sealed with Dinitrol.
 
I do like the v8 models. One I am considering is group M emissions so £730 TDK per year which is 3x the 60.
What realistically should I factor in for MPG around town on super unleaded?
 
So 12ish do you recon Jon?
Just thinking about Range- I would guess it has about 100litre tank. Will have to look it up.
 
That was pretty typical for commuting in a standard one, and even 11 in winter, but that was quite stop start. A gentle right foot will no doubt improve that a little bit. I think I saw 16/17 on a motorway run taking it very easy, otherwise 15 was more likely. They drive great, but always much less mpg than the same journey in the diesel version. LPG was a bit of a faff and can cause long term problems. A sub tank would improve the range. I think the OEM one is 60 litres on a 100.
 
Could someone with a 100 please do me a favour and measure the distance from back of centre console to the tailgate please? Forgot to do that and want to see if it’s big enough to fit in what I need.
Thanks very much
 
That was pretty typical for commuting in a standard one, and even 11 in winter, but that was quite stop start. A gentle right foot will no doubt improve that a little bit. I think I saw 16/17 on a motorway run taking it very easy, otherwise 15 was more likely. They drive great, but always much less mpg than the same journey in the diesel version. LPG was a bit of a faff and can cause long term problems. A sub tank would improve the range. I think the OEM one is 60 litres on a 100.
Great info Jon (and Andy before). I don’t like the LPG conversions so would steer clear but could add a sub tank if range was an issue.
 
Could someone with a 100 please do me a favour and measure the distance from back of centre console to the tailgate please? Forgot to do that and want to see if it’s big enough to fit in what I need.
Thanks very much
It’s 2 metres from the rear of the centre console to the lower tailgate Ben, if you have the front seats adjusted right back as I do you would lose about 40 mm off that if measured at the same height as the console, the higher you go up the backrest the more you’ll lose!
So now you need to tell us what you want to fit in
 
Great thanks Geoff. It’s whether I can get the tent inside or not which is 2150mm.
So similar to the 60 it will have to have one end sitting on top of the centre console. Was hoping it might be a bit longer but it’s manageable.
Thanks very much for checking
 
Would appreciate views about auto transmission, 4 vs 5 speed, which is best for touring? Is one more reliable than the other?or any other info would be gratefully received
 
There are pros and cons to both versions. I think the 5 speed drives better, but is a bit trickier to do an oil change on, and is allegedly weaker than the 4 speed, but that only seems to matter if you upgrade the power output a lot. The 4 speed drives fine, just not quite as smooth and responsive. I've had both and I don't think I'd pick a 100 based on which gearbox it has. Condition would be more important.
 
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