I changed the rotors on my 60 series axles a while back but at this point the parts are all interchangeable between several models including your Troopy.
Before you tear down the old set can I suggest that you get new wheel studs and, if you don't have one, find someone with a press (my buddy has a 20 ton press so we used that). I am assuming you have a gasket set and don't need to rebuild the knuckle but that you have new inner and outer wheel bearings and oil seal but if you using the bits that are already in the wheel bearing housing - then fine.
To get the old rotors off: Remove the caliper and hang it so flexi is not stressed. (two bolts - re torque at 71 ft-lbs).
With the manual lock in 'free' release the 6 bolts (torque on re-assembly is 7 ft-lbs) and remove.
The end of the shaft is exposed - remove the circlip.
Remove the 6 bolts (23 ft-lbs torque on re-assembly), washers and cone washers* and remove the casing to expose the outer bearing lock nuts. Straighten the folded tab and remove the outer nut (54mm tube spanner) - remove the tab - remove the inner nut.
You can pull the rotor set off the stub axle now - careful as the outer bearing will pop out.
You now have to separate the old rotor from the wheel bearing housing - remove the 2 holding screws (if they are present) then use the press to separate the two parts. Re-assemble with new rotors and, it is much easier, with new studs.
Re-assembly is the reverse order but make sure the oil seal slips onto the stub axle shoulder and that positions the inner bearing. Fit the newly greased outer bearing and tighten the outer wheel bearing nut - rotate the hub 4-5 times one way then the same back now tighten the inner nut then back it off an eight or fractionally more. Turn the rotor back forth till it feels right - slid on the locking tab and tighten the outer nut - lock the tab which is against a flat.
* Cone washers: Just assuming you've not dealt with old cone washers before and there are various schools of thought....
I've filed two small punches -one slightly thicker than the other - so that they have a slot end like a tiny screw driver (but stronger). Where the split is in the cone washer insert the punch straight on and hit the punch with a hammer - it should pop enough and then angle the punch to the left (undo) and tap and it should start to come off. Other ways are to hit the end of the stud with a soft hammer but I've never had success that way.
If it goes well you are looking at around 3 hours a side - depending on pressing and the (bloody) cone washers. First time I did it (knuckle rebuild) it took a day or more to get the cone washers out as someone had siliconed them in!
Hope that helps.
Regards,
Rodger