Turbo for 4.2 litre IHD-FTE

[BobMurphy]

My 2001 '100' is just about dead, it can hardly pull itself up hills - I suspect the Turbo . . . .

Looking on e-Bay I see brand-new complete turbos from Poland for around £140 (beats the £5,000 that ToyoDIY seems to be quoting!).

Has anyone tried one of these - at that price it might be worth a punt ??

Thoughts/experiences would be appreciated.

Bob.

 

[Mwr4x4]

Hybrid MWR4X4 vnt working with no electronic

 

[Shayne]

Maxpeedingrods-Performance Auto Parts Turbocharger or compatible for Toyota Land Cruiser 4.2L 1HD-FTE CT26 17201-17040 Online

Buying compatible for Toyota Land Cruiser 4.2L 1HD-FTE 1HDFTE CT26 Turbo Charger 17201-17040 and other performance spare parts with cheap price on maxpeedingrods.co.uk. Warranty for any manufacturing defect and free shipping.

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The shockingly low price had me worried but they offer a vast range of parts and i trawled the web for a week failing to find a single bad review , i have no complaints about the turbo i bought for my 90 which has been thrashed .

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Bought this one last year and adapted to fit the 80 1-HDT motors. Pretty good no issues with reliability after some issues based on quality control. Would advise checking the wastegate opening with the right pressure 9psi and opening correctly at the right RPM. Mine was not set up and after fitting was terrible. After taking it off again had to chop off where the wastegate bolts on some 5mm as for some reason the wastegate wasn't opening at all on the first fitting. Also, the rear exit wastegate ports are smaller. No real issue just so you know. I did think to bore it out but for now, left it as is.

Update today - checked the turbine for play and good as new. Was connected to a boost controller boosting to 1.3 max mainly due to the actuator being limited so took it off being tested having it on and off to max and made no difference.

 

[Mwr4x4]

Hybrid MWR4X4 vnt working with no electronic

I mounted it 3 years ago and no problem at all...its a garret 2573 second generation with mfs and cutbacks in exhaust.
It's working at 1.4 bars and adapted with non problems to my 2001 .
It originally worked by vacuum and I decided to maintain it..so I did it work with no electro valves..just with a simple adjustable mechanical valve.
Now with more flow at less rpm...a big intercooler..a ntdd powerchipwith a special software and a fcd...its working perfectly..acceleration between 0...to 100km h our in 9.5 seconds with 35 inches tires....14 litres each 100 km in consumption...transmission is also reinforced .

 

[Grimbo]

My 2001 '100' is just about dead, it can hardly pull itself up hills - I suspect the Turbo . . . .

Looking on e-Bay I see brand-new complete turbos from Poland for around £140 (beats the £5,000 that ToyoDIY seems to be quoting!).

Has anyone tried one of these - at that price it might be worth a punt ??

Thoughts/experiences would be appreciated.

Bob.

Turbos generally work or fail spectacularly with clouds of smoke.....
I would check fuel filters , actual boost achieved, intercooler hoses for splits and do a good bit more diagnosis before condemning the turbo.....
Loads of places can repair a turbo in the UK ......just get yours reconditioned ? many give a 2 year warranty on recon turbos .....

 

[Beau]

Yeah, I'd firstly check boost levels to see where you're at. It could well be something else. If it has a MAP sensor, check that and the lines that run to it. If it's not telling the ECU it's boosting, it will not add fuel. Are you getting any CEL thrown?

 

[BobMurphy]

The '100' has always been a gutless slug and I have suspected a turbo issue. Today I started taking things apart.

I was a bit surprised to find that the impeller spins freely - I had suspected that it was seized.

I then looked at the Waste Gate . . . . The book says it can be tested by putting around 12 PSI air into the pressure hose; I put around 14 PSI in and nothing happened.
I removed the actuator mounting bolts and the whole assembly is rigid - nothing moves.

This is a very rusty truck and judging by what's left of the bolts around the exhaust system I guess the Waste Gate lever is stuck - but is it open or closed ??

If its open there will be little turbo pressure, poor performance and bad fuel consumption - that ticks all the boxes.

BUT: what happens if its stuck shut - presumably the electronics will shut the motor down to prevent damage. I find it won't climb hills (large throttle, high exhaust pressure so overboost ??) but builds up speed on the level (low throttle, low exhaust pressure so lower boost ??). That seems to match what its started doing recently.

Does anyone know the effect of a stuck Waste Gate - open or shut ??

My Toyota Intelligent Tester is dead - it never recovered from me stripping it down to solder-in a new battery. The 'budget' tester works on the RAV4s but won't connect to the '100'. I therefore can't easily check for faults at present, however the last time I tried to check the turbo boost pressure (just revving the motor in the yard) it wasn't anywhere near the right value. I put that down to it not being under load, maybe that was wishful thinking!

I'm going to check the EGR valve as I had one stick open on the Ford Focus and it killed the performance so that may be a culprit as well . If I can get the nuts undone without breaking anything I may blank it off anyway.

Then its a matter of checking all electrical connections, state of the little vacuum pipes and so on.

I must get a working Diagnostic Tester though.

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Stuck closed it would pressurize until something went bang in a big way , stuck open and you dont have a turbo at all .

 

[BobMurphy]

I guess its stuck open then (it feels like there's no turbo there) .

I have just ordered a very cheap Chinese turbo from Poland . . . . Getting the original one off is going to be a challenge (got to start somewhere).

I can fix the mechanicals, and even the electrical gubbins - but the crumbling bodywork will be the death of it .

Bob.

 

[Beau]

So if it's stuck shut, it won't bleed off pressure which would lead to an over boosting situation. I don't know what the limit is on your engine, but lets say it's 14 psi. Once the ECU see's that it will cut fueling and limit power. This normally throws a code. Power will be pretty bad, but you'll still be able to drive it fairly well.

If it's open, then all boost will get bled, maybe you'll get a little under load, but either way it'll drive like it hasn't got a turbo on it.

You could try freeing your waste gate and seeing if it works. Surprised it seized. Did you go a long time having it parked up?

 

[BobMurphy]

You could try freeing your waste gate and seeing if it works. Surprised it seized. Did you go a long time having it parked up?

It was sitting in the yard, unused, for a couple of months - but it has always felt totally gutless. I just haven't tried pulling the turbo off before - too busy just trying to keep it (and other vehicles) on the road. Now the time has come !

I really need to get a diagnostic analyser on it as I'm working blind. Why did they put the socket in such a stupid place (on the brake pedal hanger) ?? it makes using the reader (with a short cable) almost impossible when driving as its just too dangerous. Maybe that's why its there .

Thanks for the thoughts on over-pressurising. The truck seems to get up to speed on the level but dies on hills - which makes sense.

The book says - "remove the turbo and exhaust manifold together" - has anyone managed to get the turbo off without disturbing the manifold ??

Bob.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Bob having to take the turbo off my 80 many times prior its easier to take it off with the manifold altogether. Basically the rear two top bolts on the housing to the manifold are not accessible to take off. I suspect the 100 is similar.

Also having a few years back turbo issues. Mine was not boosting passed 0.5 being the max. Cut a long story short the actuator was faulty. Having put another one on and boosting better than blow the turbo with white smoke. This was frustrating having to take on and off the turbo then to find out it went this way and then having to do all the work again.

Basically sometimes is better to bolt on a new turbocharger one rather than trying to diagnose the issues and having to go back and forth.

Doing the work myself always and having access to a lift at the garage none the less is no easy quick task to do so would recommend do it once do it right.

 

[Shayne]

Different engine but i can say from swapping the turbo on my 90 that time seemingly wasted unbolting far to much is time saved when you can actually see what your doing ......... unless your a child sized gymnast .

 

[TonyP]

I will never take the turbo off my 120 again. Although not difficult, it's a chore with everything that needs to come off.

 

[Beau]

If it's easier for you, you could buy a cheap gauge that reads up to 15 psi and T into any manifold connection and plumb it into the cab temporarily. You most likely have a MAP sensor you could use. Then take it for a drive ad you'll be able to tell what it's doing.

I'm not sure about these engines, but any chance you can try and free the waste gate whilst it's on there? Not sure what I'd use, but ATF is my go to when freeing stuck stuff. I suppose persevering and getting it off is ideal as you can give the entire thing a look.

 

[BobMurphy]

Different engine but i can say from swapping the turbo on my 90 that time seemingly wasted unbolting far to much is time saved when you can actually see what your doing ......... unless your a child sized gymnast .

Certainly not child-sized (or a Gymnast) .

I'm inclined to agree, its much easier when its all on the bench. The problem is its a 19-year-old truck and every bolt/nut is rusted, this is going to take a long time.

Next time will be easier .

Bob.

 

[StarCruiser]

I’m with Beau on this one Bob. If there is the remotest chance of getting to the waste gate arm and getting some diesel, atf or penetrating fluid in around where the rod goes into the turbo housing and letting it soak for a bit, it may free up. Then if you can, get something on it, like an open ended spanner or water pump pliers, to gently try and wiggle it back and forth until free. If possible, remove the actuator first without destroying bolts. Often it’s held to the arm with a cotter pin and C clip. Anything on old exhaust components usually ends up rusty and impossible to remove, so you’ll probably want to do as little as possible in the way of stripping down or it’s a case of sod it and do it all come what may. Good luck with it. It may not be as bad as you think. Loads of copper ease on threads and pins going back together of course.

 

[BobMurphy]

Well, after a day of fighting with the remains of rusted bolts I finally removed the Header Pipe and then the end of the turbo . . .

It appears to be stuck in the shut position as, when I unbolt the actuator end, nothing moves - its like a solid piece.

Putting some (14 psi) compressed air into the pressure tube produces no movement.

The turbo turns freely, so I may have got away with a replacement Waste Gate Actuator (cheap on e-Bay) but the truck is required for horse towing soon ( ) so I ordered the cheapie turbo ASAP in the hope that it will get here from Poland in time.

I'm now trying to get the EGR pipe off the exhaust manifold . . . . The nuts are just cones of rust and access it very limited. I have managed to get the outer one off (it didn't survive). Tomorrow will be spent head scratching and seeking improbable solutions for the inner one.

I want to make sure that the EGR Valve isn't sticking - I had that on a Ford Focus and it killed it almost dead.

This is one of those jobs where 'it' can't be removed without taking something else off first . . . and that won't come off until something else has been removed . . and that is rusted solid and takes all day to free up . . .

Its just as well I'm retired.

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Shut beggar's belief ?

I would expect the ecu to put you in limp mode and the dash to light up in alarm

The gate is just a mechanical door so smack it with a hammer turbo's aren't delicate just finely balanced and thats all in the turbine wheel which will remain fixed in place even if you drop the whole turbo from an upstairs window .

Looks to me like the outside lever to the actuator is what seized rather than the waste gate itself and if so acid rust remover will likely free it up so everything can work as it should again .

You know its never to late for a visit to Krown it won't cure rust but its incredibly good at slowing the process . I have started using it on my boat and replacement parts such as hydraulic pipes etc which typically turn rusty in a matter of weeks still look new months later .