Turbo for 4.2 litre IHD-FTE

[BobMurphy]

I think there's more wrong than just the waste gate valve.

When I removed the actuator bolts I expected to be able to pull it outwards (moving the piston) but it was solid. It seems the actuator is stuck, and the gate valve may be as well - I won't know until I disconnect the rod.

I'm trying to free all the nuts / bolts before the new turbo arrives, lying on my back under the truck with a face full of rust . Naturally, being an Auto, the box cooling pipes share the same bracket as the turbo support and the pipes are in the way of the bolt - brilliant.

I'm hoping I can get to all four manifold to turbo bolts from underneath otherwise I'll have to remove the exhaust manifold and all those seized M10 nuts.

Its going to be a long week.

Bob.

 

[chapel gate]

I think there's more wrong than just the waste gate valve.

When I removed the actuator bolts I expected to be able to pull it outwards (moving the piston) but it was solid. It seems the actuator is stuck, and the gate valve may be as well - I won't know until I disconnect the rod.

I'm trying to free all the nuts / bolts before the new turbo arrives, lying on my back under the truck with a face full of rust . Naturally, being an Auto, the box cooling pipes share the same bracket as the turbo support and the pipes are in the way of the bolt - brilliant.

I'm hoping I can get to all four manifold to turbo bolts from underneath otherwise I'll have to remove the exhaust manifold and all those seized M10 nuts.

Its going to be a long week.

Bob.

ive never had a problem taking a manifold off on a 80 bob. the seized nuts may stay seized but the studs come out.

 

[BobMurphy]

Well, hopefully either the nuts will come free or the studs will come out, but knowing my luck I'll break something.

Today I set about removing the inner nut from the EGR feed tube (or whatever its called).

It didn't look too bad after a week of soaking in Plus Gas so I put a 14mm 6-point impact deep socket on it . . . and rounded off the corners.

Next a 13mm 6-point impact deep socket was hammered on with a 2.5Lb hammer and torque applied. Something seemed to turn. This looked hopeful so I applied my Milwaukee Impact gun to it . . . and turned it into a shiny steel cone. Hmmm.

Nothing would grip the nut (I tried two different types of left-hand conical removal tools) so I tried a sharpened cold chisel at a low oblique angle. That messed it up a bit but still no movement. I tried a 12mm 6-point, impact . . . . you get the drift. Still no use.

Then - a brainwave (a rare occurrence these days).

An old B&D drill in a horizontal stand, a flexi-drive and a 6mm carbide burr. That should give the chisels something to bite on.

Of course, these things jump around a lot and when both hands are trying to keep it still the view is completely blocked (even with an industrial-grade LED Head Torch to shed light into dark corners). However I eventually made the wall of the nut thin enough to crack and then got it to turn a bit. More grinding and hitting, then more grinding and hitting and after another hour or so the remains of the nut were off - SUCCESS .

I marked the stud a bit, but with anti-seize paste and a nice new M10 x 1.25mm nut wound up and down a couple of times it doesn't look too bad.

The flange took a bit of a hit as well and I might build it up with the MIG welder and grind it flush again.

And now . . . I can see the manifold nuts - oh joy .

Will the nuts come off . . . . . Will the studs come out . . . . . . Will he break something as usual . . . . . Wait for the next thrilling instalment.



Bob.

 

[AndyCook]

Looks like a nightmare job, I admire your patience
Had my Hilux from new, bought in 2013 and the winter roads salt making it’s presence known. Snapping bolts already on it when helping free rear axle brake lines to change leaf springs. So spent a month needle gunning rust on chassis and axle and big dinitrol spraying now sessions.

 

[Beau]

At least you have space to work on this. I've removed a 2.0 VW tdi turbo and that was a pain. I can't imagine doing that job and stripping a bolt. It would turn into a engine out job at that point.

 

[BobMurphy]

Not much space inside, despite having a double garage (too many projects). This is being done outside in the yard. Plenty of space but Scottish summers are wet (well, it is this year).

Today . . .

Mmmmmmmmmmm Shiny .

Not a bad £132.35 worth .

I put 14 psi into the pressure hose and it all worked as it should. Next problem is to get the old one off.

I have ordered a set of exhaust manifold nuts and those two long bolts that (with springs) hold the header pipe to the turbo outlet from Simon at Steven Eagell Toyota. I'll have to split each of the 12 old nuts with a Dremel and try to get them off without damaging the studs. I'll wait for the nuts to arrive before starting that little job.

I'll need the car before then so, as an interim measure, I have ordered a new Waste Gate Actuator (e-Bay, £15.00 ) and I'll fit that to the existing turbo. Today I removed the old Actuator . . .

The Waste Gate valve is free but the actuator is seized. After playing around with it and putting compressed air in I got it to work slowly but its not moving very far.

It will be interesting to see if there is any improvement with the new cheapie actuator.

I am also cleaning the carbon out of the inlet ducting from EGR to manifold (but I won't be taking the inlet manifold off this time - that's for later).

The Exhaust Manifold HAS to come off - There is a steel water pipe that feeds the cabin heater running along the block directly below the turbo inlet. There isn't room to get a ring spanner on the turbo nuts, The nuts can't come off and I couldn't drop the turbo off the studs - brilliant design (very compact).

Jobs for tomorrow - clean everything up, remove as many old seized nuts / bolts as possible and replace with stainless (with anti-seize) and prepare for the new Actuator's arrival on Wed / Thur.

I'm actually supposed to be welding in the new inner sills (but to what ).

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Looks like an adjustable actuator on your new turbo ? did you set it so wastegate opens at 14 psi ?

 

[BobMurphy]

Errr, I'm not following that.

The adjuster on the rod is surely just to ensure that the flap valve shuts / opens properly; I don't see how it can affect the pressure at which it opens. There is no resistance at the valve end - springs or anything.

Unless I'm missing something here.

I didn't adjust anything. I just gave it 14psi because the manual says it opens between 9 and 11 psi (and not to overdo the pressure !).

Cleaning up the bits (and getting a long overdue haircut) today (its raining).

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Nothing fancy about the actuator its just a compressed spring , pressure unwinds the spring allowing the wastegate to open dumping pressure .

Shorten the arm and it takes more pressure to unwind the spring = more boost . In general terms Toyota might have it set to open at 7psi while 14 psi is within factory spec .

My first turbo upgrade (because Toyota's own actuator is non adjustable) was to unbolt the actuator and put thin washers between it and the housing shortening the arm a few mm hence increasing boost ,

 

[Beau]

You might stick the new actuator on and not have to worry about replacing the turbo. Plus you might be getting rid of a good OEM turbo for a cheap ebay one that may not last.

 

[BobMurphy]

Yes, I had considered that.

I had suspected that the turbo was faulty but it appears to be OK, despite the carbon on the exhaust impeller. I'll try it with the cheapie Actuator before swapping the turbos.

Part of me wants to try it out ( ) and I'm now so far into freeing-up all the nuts I'll probably complete the job after the trial run. The old Turbo won't be thrown out - just cleaned-up and boxed "just in case".

And I wonder why I have no storage space . . . . .

Bob.

 

[BobMurphy]

The cheapie Waste Gate Actuator arrived today, its close but not a perfect fit, but what do you expect for £15.00 .

The push rod is 9mm too long, The mounting holes 5mm too close together, there is a bracket with two threaded holes that I don't need and the hose spigot is facing the wrong way.

No great problems here.

1. I used an end-mill in the drill press to slot a mounting hole.

2. Found a longer length of 6mm ID pressure hose.

3. Went to one of the "Parts I'll need one day" boxes and selected some 6mm x 1mm rose joints - just the job.

Chop the end off, clean-up the end, thread it about 20mm and fit.

Hopefully I got the measurements right (I do have some adjustment as there is 14mm of thread in the joint).

Tomorrow (if it stops raining) will tell.

These jobs are never quick are they !

Bob.

 

[BobMurphy]

I forgot to say . . . .

I tested the pressure at which the Actuator opened. It was a bit reluctant to move at all at first but after 'exercising it' all was well.

It starts to twitch at around 9 psi and opens at 11 psi, which sounds right.

From what Shane is saying, shortening the rod will pre-load the spring, delay the opening and increase the turbo pressure, the question is - at what pressure does the ECU decide to shut down into 'limp mode' ??

I'll leave it as is for the present - but there will always be that little voice whispering in my ear .

If it runs OK that will do, I have bigger issues to sort with the truck (its on 'lockdown old MOT' road tax at the moment, I can't leave it like that as I have a duty to keep it roadworthy).

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

No worries at 11psi i doubt , gotta wonder why you didn't just fit the actuator from your new turbo instead of ordering another .

 

[Beau]

That soot on the turbo is probably from running rich from little to no boost however long this problem has been around.

That truck will wake up after you fix the waste gate. Not sure how you drove with it that bad to be honest.

 

[Shayne]

Your turbo will be soot dirty as well Beau because the crank vents into the intake pre turbo .

 

[BobMurphy]

No worries at 11psi i doubt , gotta wonder why you didn't just fit the actuator from your new turbo instead of ordering another .

I need the car for Sunday (Horse towing job) and the new turbo was likely to be delivered the following week. As it happened it arrived earlier than estimated.

I thought £15 was a small price to pay to avoid the doghouse .

(I have actually been offered the use of a neighbour's Mitsubishi 'Trojan' pickup - but I'm keeping that to myself at the moment, its a 'fall-back' option if the current fix goes tits-up ).

Bob.

 

[BobMurphy]

The modded cheapie Actuator is in. The pictures make it look easy but fitting the nut to the rose joint took an hour or two before I glued the nut into an open-ended spanner with 'Blue Hylomar' and managed to jam it under the end of the thread. I could just get two fingers to it and managed to get the nut started on the thread.

Had the turbo been on the bench it would have been a doddle.

More cleaning and re-assembly tomorrow, then hopefully a test run. That will be interesting.

The Rose Joint doesn't appear to be mounted straight, I'll have another look at it tomorrow (poking a small camera up there gives me a far better view than I have from lying under the truck).

The Waste Gate now opens at 11 psi (I had to extend the joint three turns - 3 mm - to get it to line up).

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Reminds me when i first messed with my actuator i bodged up a poor example of a ring spanner out of a tea spoon so i could tighten the nut and leave the spanner on it

I'm actually excited for you Bob if you have bee driving it without a turbo as it seems for a long time its gonna feel like a new vehicle if you have cured the problem

 

[BobMurphy]

Well, its back together (with the EGR blanked off what a load of carbon in the inlet piping - diesels are supposed to breath air ). I have driven it around the yard and up and down the drive - all seems well. Tomorrow I'll take it for a spin . . . . Hopefully it will get up the hill in Kirkliston better than it used to.

Then there's horse towing on Sunday to give it a real test.

I must replace the high-level lights on the horse trailer, after 24 years the bulb holders are well and truly rusted. I have a nice pair of LED lamps to go on .

Bob.