Turbo for 4.2 litre IHD-FTE

[Dan_the_drifter]

Only skim read through but if you have noticed a lot of carbon in the intake cross over pipe you definitely want to pull the intake manifold, take a look at my thread and you will see how much was in mine at around 225k. Good luck, hope it works well tomorrow, here's the link:

100 series 4.2TD GX manual from the southwest UK

Hi, I put a post up in the Introduce Yourself section: https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/hi-from-the-southwest-new-to-me-100-series-amazon-owner.150851/ Nice to get so many friendly responses, been on many other forums and this seems like a good place to hang out :thumbup: I...

www.landcruiserclub.net

Edit: Also from my own turbo experience, I am a mechanic by trade, if the gate was stuck shut (as you show) it should have pulled like mad unless it was in a limp home mode. Normally though each time you turn it off and on it would reset so it should have pulled well, hit boost cut at whatever pressure then put the light on and lost all power. Strange that you didn't have full beans each time you came to it from a fresh start. The flapper being shut means your getting as much boost as it will make and not dumping any, if for any reason the actuator doesn't resolve your problem get a boost gauge on there and check what its reaching. You could have an open EGR or bad boost leak.

Cheers

 

[Shayne]

I'm with Dan something doesn't add up and the only simple explanation i can think of is the rubber pipe from turbo housing to actuator split or came off .

When your happy all is good i recommend a bottle of this Wynns Formula Gold Diesel Treatment 500ml | Halfords UK - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club] in the fuel tank then drive it like you stole it (aiming for max revs rather than speed) . Some call it snake oil but i've seen it work in an old work truck that needed max revs just to get it moving .

 

[BobMurphy]

Well, I took it for a spin this morning and it feels better - still no ball of fire though.

I wasn't towing so will have to wait for the real test tomorrow.

Dan, My inlet pipes weren't as bad as yours (dry carbon that I washed out with hot water and industrial cleaner). I have now blanked off the EGR at the base of the feed pipe which can only help. It seems you have the water-cooled EGR, I don't so maybe the carbon is going through the motor rather than condensing.

My EGR valve was working (I put a vacuum pump on it) but its now redundant, though still connected to the vacuum system.

I also have a lower mileage than you - around 147,000 miles (but the rust is becoming terminal).

I did a top-end overhaul on a daughter's RAV4 a couple of years ago - the carbon in the inlet ports was so bad I couldn't see the valve stems, I don't know how it breathed at all. Its going very well now (with 208,000 on it).

The other daughter's RAV4 is in my yard awaiting the same treatment - with 180,000 on it.

I'll probably have to decoke the '100' at some point - if I can get the body rot through the MOT.

Then there's the '90' - on SORN, still waiting for new floor panels .

I don't understand the suspected turbo issue. There were no warning lights, just very high fuel consumption and no go. The Waste Gate Actuator was definitely not moving when I put compressed air into it (over 14 psi). Just too many electronic gee-gaws intervening somewhere I suspect.

Life was much simpler when you just had a throttle cable going to a carb, a set of points, a distributor and a coil < sigh >.

Bob.

 

[BobMurphy]

Well, I towed the empty horse trailer about 50 miles today - Motorway, A roads, B roads, hills and flat . . .

Result - its a lot better than it was but it still feels down on power (but it always did). There are times when its going uphill and it just feels gutless, no urge there at all, resorting to the PWR button keeps the revs up and improves things, as does dropping out of O/D on Motorways.

This is all at 2,000 rpm of course, once the revs get to 2,600 or so things improve.

Am I expecting too much of this slow-revving truck engine - its never going to spin the wheels on getaway ??

All in all I'm quite pleased but want to investigate other possible issues. I can see the head coming off for a decoke, valve grind, injector refurb and so on.

Must get the body welded and see if it will pass an MOT before laying out more loads of dosh on it.

Bob.

 

[Shayne]

Something very odd going on with that Bob , i don't know your engine turbo should be winding up and making fuel run richer at maybe 2200rpm and upwards .

Give all the sensors a scrub maybe , no christmas lights suggest the ecu doesn't even know whats going on .

 

[Beau]

It's well worth seeing what the EGT's and boost levels are at under load. It would give you a good indication of the engines performance. I think on your engine, you should be able to use one of those cheap bluetooth OBD readers? That would give you boost but not sure if those engines have EGT readings. I'd also check the actual lines? That boost line that plugs into the waste gate may have been bad which was causing the gate not to open, but was bleeding the pressure off itself and so the ECU never saw the high boost levels.

Check the lines going to the MAP sensor. Those engines also have a MAF sensor. Worth giving that a clean too.

 

[annewalker]

Try this
MILLERS DIESEL POWER ECOMAX 500ML GMO-6204KB