Wheel stud replacement

[Gary Stockton]

I have a wheel stud on the right rear that is fubar. Can't even get a thread restorer on it to try and fix it. Must have happened when I had the BFGs put on, and when I was moving tyres around today to get the same tread depth on each axle I discovered it.

So - how difficult is it to replace, and do I need any special tools, eg a press?

Should all 6 be relaxed at the same time?

Should I also replace the wheel nuts if I replace the studs (one is fubar anyway - the one that was on the fubar std)

Thanks guys

 

[Steve Wright]

I Gary

Look hear: http://www.milneroffroad.com/toyota...0/kdj120-axle-frontrear-0/kdj120-wheel-stud-0

To Remove them you could use a socket and a "G" clamp and push it out and do reverse to put the new one in, I don't think there is any
need to replace them all but replace the Nut !

 

[Gary Stockton]

Thanks Steve - just been checking the FSM and it's a bit of a palaver. I'll have a go though!

 

[Gary Stockton]

Hmm - does anyone know where I can source the stud removal tool - there are a few - I'm after the one Steve referred to - looks like a 'G' clamp with a claw foot or hole in it for the stud to pass through. I can only seem to find them in the states for silly money. Tempted to see how much the Toyota SST costs

 

[Graham]

It is not easy.

I had to take mine to Toyota.
The whole back drum assy. needs to come off.
The broken stud can fall out in the drum when the drum gets warm, and then get mashed up with the hand brake shoes.

Toyota just changed the one for me, so looks like all 6 don't need to be changed.

It looks like they just whack it out backwards with a round flat punch.

Gra.

 

[Gary Stockton]

Yes coming to the BFH thought as well!! Might not be the most elegant solution but it'll probably work. As long as I don't break anything ...

 

[Steve Wright]

Gary

What I would do is heat up the back plate around the stud, then get a large pin punch, and when it is hot give it a good belt !
and when putting the new one in put the new stud in the freezer for 24 hrs and again warm the back plate again, and the stud should
basicly drop in, but put a bit of loc-tight on it where the splines are.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

No need for heat. It can cause warping. I suggest a large copper hammer. Hit the stud hard and directly in line with it. They often pop out with one blow. To put the new one in, place in position and pull through with new wheel nut. This is to start it off. When you have pulled enough through, replace wheel and nuts and tighten to spec. Leave for 20 minutes and re-check the replaced stud/nut. Re-check each day until torque steady.

Roger

 

[OG.]

Replaced loads of studs back in my mini days. Well aimed hammer blows will do it. Of course we wanted the old studs to be kept (fitted longer studs) so we wound a nut on before whacking the stud .

 

[Graham]

No need for heat. It can cause warping. I suggest a large copper hammer. Hit the stud hard and directly in line with it. They often pop out with one blow.

Roger

.
Exactly what they do in Toyota workshop.

Gra.