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Which brake bleeder kit ?

Probably an ok bit of kit, but I find that using a large hypodermic syringe (local vet or farm supply should have them) and a length of clear plastic tube works well to draw the new fluid through each nipple in turn, longest run first. You have to keep an eye on the reservoir level and keep it topped up with fresh fluid.
 
If it has the correct adapter for your motor Shayne that's a nice but of kit for the price.

Other alternatives are vacuum bleeders that you either connect to an air line or manually pump through.
Pulls the fluid through rather then pushing it.
 
Thanks Flint but i expect they would call out the army thinking aliens had invaded if a cow walked into this town :lol:

Thanks for the link Mark but i think my tyre valve is a fair bit more than average distance from the bonnet even in its highest position so i'd rather not chance that type .

And thanks to you especially Gary as i was looking with my eyes closed , my caps are rubber push on about 50mm in diameter so the one i linked won't work .

So is this my best bet then ?

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...sealey-vs402-vacuum-tester-brake-bleeding-kit
 
Pretty sure they are available on eBay Shayne for a fraction of the price.

Chris swears by this type (vacuum) of kit I seem to recall.
 
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Thanks Rich Sealey seem to do pretty good quality stuff and i'm sure i would happily pay double the price after waiting a couple of days for someone to give me a hand and things never go to plan when i can't hear someone i can't see :icon-rolleyes:
 
Yeah they work well mate. I use one similar on mine, the brake bleeder at work doesn't have an adapter that fits.
Had to do a Nissan 350z the other day with it as similar reservoir.
 
Sealey vacuum bleeder has been the Mutt's nuts. One man job, incredibly effective and seems to pull the air out but not lots of fluid. Very fast indeed.
 
Shane, Countrywide in Wenvoe will sell syringes. A 50ml syringe will be under a quid (it may not be under a quid from Countrywide; everything in there is overpriced), but closer than Arthur John in Cowbridge who will have them for pennies.

I'd never thought of the syringe, but then me and Mrs. Cowell would miss our brake bleeding bonding sessions. Nipple loosening and tightening, and shouting "down" and "up".
 
[QUOTE="Rob Cowell, post: 1417529, member: 7023]
I'd never thought of the syringe, but then me and Mrs. Cowell would miss our brake bleeding bonding sessions. Nipple loosening and tightening, and shouting "down" and "up".[/QUOTE]
Made Lynn chuckle. We've had a few of those recently on truck and smart.
 
Helen works 8 hours a night 5 nights a week every week so even though she does enjoy mumbling around the corner so i have to drop everything to go and see what shes on about which usually produces a tenfold volume increase against which i have no defense , besides that i still have to wait for her to wake up .

I like the syringe idea myself but its a tool you only buy once if it's any good and it will last for years .

The sealey would be ordered but my connection keeps dropping so i will do it by phone in the morning .
 
Now i need a brake line flaring tool and good reviews seem few and far between for the budget ones so any recommendations ?
 
I’ve got a Sykes Flaremaster 2 which is quite handy if you want to do the flaring in situ. Still a bit of a faff when lying on your back, does good flares, but a bench mounted one with a rotating turret and sturdy clamp is easier to use.
 
Thanks Flint that seems to be the kind of price i'm looking at for something decent which makes me wonder if i should put it back together with the old hoses so i can drive it to a garage and let them fit the new stainless hoses .
 
Is the rigid pipework and nut ok ? If so, and you got the old hoses off fairly easily (ha) it should just be a straight swap.
 
Swapped one no bother at all but even after heating and cooling the next pipe nut the flare spanner i just bought is rounding it . No way i'm getting that off and reusing it . A touchy feely play with the rest makes me think the problem will repeat itself .
 
Hmm, sometimes they shift if you just give them a tightening nudge first, but only sometimes ! If they do do the job, best to use Kunifer pipe if possible as, worst case scenario, pure copper can work harden over time and get brittle.
 
Come to think on it a rusty brake pipe was replaced during an mot some time back so like as not that's the one i fitted the hose to . Gutting really i was feeling too posh to talk to the neighbours a couple of hours ago :lol:
New Brakes 001.JPG
 
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