LJ70 Build Thread!

[Chris]

Hmm, thought they'd curve down a bit more than stick out like big ears.

C

 

[Chas]

Hmm, thought they'd curve down a bit more than stick out like big ears.

C

Yeah, that's why I didn't like 'em

 

[Gav Peter]

The stuff I have looks quite different to Chaz's; I'll take it home & try to get some comparison pics of it [strike:7kgfb1dk]bodged[/strike:7kgfb1dk] [strike:7kgfb1dk]lashed[/strike:7kgfb1dk] [strike:7kgfb1dk]held[/strike:7kgfb1dk] nope, defo bodged up on the arch for you CJ.

If you did want to alter the angle that it points out at, I suppose you could 'adjust' the angle of the inner arch with an 'adjuster'...

In terms of the size, yup, I reckon the 35mm stuff should work; I might look at some of that in the final iteration as at least it looks like you're making an effort...

 

[Ben]

Gav, do you think that this would fit on the rear arch and be missed by the rear door when it opens? Thereby you wouldn't have to have a join in there where the door fits?

Sorry for the thread hijack Ben, but we are on page 2085 by now.

Just wondering if the 35 mm version would be enough for a normal truck Gav. They look quite large. I need some images of them fitted or offered up at least. The factory pics in the advert look nothing like this at all.

Chris

its ok Chris.

i hadnt forgotten that your after something similar for your 80, and while ive been searching and scouring the net, ive also been seeing whats available for the 80. if i find anything you will be the first to know.

im sure there were people selling the rolls of rubber strip at last years indoor 4x4 show.

what ever i fit to mine, i dont really want to have to drill my new arches. so id like to use stikaflex.

 

[Ben]

I have something similar on the rear of my truck (because the rubbish OEM fibreglass units broke the first time I took it off road) but Im not happy with it at all, it looks rubbish. I am working on some polyurethane rubber versions of the OEM ones but itll probably be late spring at the earliest until Ive got a prototype to test.

im very interested in these. let me know if/when you get a set made please.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

im very interested in these. let me know if/when you get a set made please.

Will do, hopefully I wont get any more financial surprises (like exploding diffs ) and Ill be able to devote some time and money to getting some made early next year. If anyone knows a decent supplier of GRP (fibreglass for mould making) materials that would be helpful as all the ones Ive used in the past have either closed down or are "Oop Norf". The ones Ive googled around Bristol all seem to want to sell me mile long rolls of matting and 200 litre oil drums of resin!?

 

[Justin_Elliott]

If anyone knows a decent supplier of GRP (fibreglass for mould making) materials that would be helpful as all the ones Ive used in the past have either closed down or are "Oop Norf". The ones Ive googled around Bristol all seem to want to sell me mile long rolls of matting and 200 litre oil drums of resin!?

PM me what you're after... I maybe able to help or know some one who can.

 

[Ben]

Gav, do you think that this would fit on the rear arch and be missed by the rear door when it opens? Thereby you wouldn't have to have a join in there where the door fits?

Sorry for the thread hijack Ben, but we are on page 2085 by now.

Just wondering if the 35 mm version would be enough for a normal truck Gav. They look quite large. I need some images of them fitted or offered up at least. The factory pics in the advert look nothing like this at all.

Chris

its ok Chris.

i hadnt forgotten that your after something similar for your 80, and while ive been searching and scouring the net, ive also been seeing whats available for the 80. if i find anything you will be the first to know.

im sure there were people selling the rolls of rubber strip at last years indoor 4x4 show.

what ever i fit to mine, i dont really want to have to drill my new arches. so id like to use stikaflex.

any good Chris?

http://extremelandcruiser.com/store/ind ... 5c183b4409

not cheap though.

 

[Ben]

seeing Chris's intercooler thread, reminded me that i never connected mine up to the new engine.

it isnt going to be quite as easy to connect up to the engine as it was on the 2.4 engine, but once i do connect it up its looking like the pipe work will be a lot straighter, with a lot less bends.

this is what im looking at.

going to need to make a flange, and then weld a 90 degree bend on to it with the bend pointing towards the front of the truck.

it will replace the alloy pipe in the pic below.

the other side is a lot easier and i will just use on of my silicon 90 degree bends.

im hoping this will make more of an improvement than it seemed to on the 2.4.

found this useful thread where some one fitted an intercooler to a 4-runner which has got the same 1KZT engine as mine.

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/showthread.php?t=46029

im not entirely happy with the exhaust, and im also wondering if i should have had it made in 3" tube instead of 2.5".

really need to try not to spend too much on my truck next year, as need to save as much as possible for OZ.

but tomorrow im going to go buy a new rad, water pump, cambelt kit, and front main seal from milners.

want to go to the scrap yard at some point aswell and find a suitable electric fan so i can get rid of the viscous one.

 

[Crushers]

2.5" is plenty for your small engine displacement.

you could try to build an intercooler similar to this idea:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php? ... 1322380586
true, it is on a 1HZ but the idea is there for you to consider ...

<some other pics are about halfway down this page:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/ ... ld-15.html

 

[Ben]

thanks Wayne. ive already got a big front mounted intercooler, just need to pipe it up.

 

[Crushers]

oops, my bad ...

 

[Ben]

quite a successful day today, but spent quite a bit.

firstly i went and saw Karl, and after spending a while searching through what can only be described as an Aladdin's cave of cruiser parts, we found the good condition KZJ70 radiator that he was sure he had.

great find, as ive not found one for sale anywhere, and ive spent hours scouring the net. will be a lot better than the 4-runner one that is currently bodged in place and leaking.

also picked up some new steering bars.

the bars will need sleeving before i fit them, to hopefully stop me from bending them quite so easily.

also picked up some wheel nuts to replace the ones i lost when my wheel fell off, + a few spare ones.

big thanks to Karl for helping me out, again.

next it was off to milners. i decided when i picked up the engine donor 4-runner that i would get the engine all fitted and running and then look at changing the cambelt.

i changed the cambelt on my old 2.4 engine, and a week later the water pump started leaking, changed that and then a week later the front camshaft seal started leaking. so that was twice the new cambelt had to come back off.
so learning from that experience, i now wont change a cambelt without also changing the other bits.

so new cambelt.

genuine tensioner assembly, and non genuine tensioner.

genuine water pump.

camshaft seal.

genuine thermostat.

great service from milners as always.

got talking to a chap outside who was there in his modified 60series. he mentioned that he had bought bits of Karl, but that they had never actually met. he was quite surprised when i told him about the landcruiser club, as he didnt realise there was such a thing in the UK, and that hed been looking at all the OZ cruiser sites instead. so he might be across to say hello shortly. or if your reading this Ian, welcome to the forum.

drove to Johnies next so that he could show me some of his many projects. im loving the alloy bodied 40 series! that is goign to be an amazing truck when its built. the quality and thickness of the alloy tub is very nice.

just got home and had a measure of the new steering bars that need sleeving.

the bar in front of the axle needs sleeving with tube with an inside diameter of 25mm.

and the one behind the axle needs to have an inside diameter of 27mm.

annoying and strange that toyota never made them out of the same size tube.

so need to get some tube to sleeve them with before i fit them. hopefully i can find some with a 5mm wall thickness.

also picked up the latest [strike:1f5fq4lw]total off road[/strike:1f5fq4lw] total 4x4 magazine, which is surprisingly thick and seems to be an ok read.

 

[Gav Peter]

Nice show of bling dude

Will see if 'we' have some tube to assist if you like...

 

[Ben]

that would be great if you can please mate.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

How much did the cam belt, pump, thermostat and seal cost you? Id be really interested if you did a little write up when you fit it as Ive got mine to do soon and Ive never done a cam belt before.

 

[Ben]

How much did the cam belt, pump, thermostat and seal cost you? Id be really interested if you did a little write up when you fit it as Ive got mine to do soon and Ive never done a cam belt before.

Engine cam belt and tensioner kit £60
Engine Water pump £67
Engine thermostat £10
Engine Crankshaft Seal £3.25

total= £140.25 +VAT.

yes no problem mate. like i need any excuse to take hundreds of pics and waffle on about what im doing to my truck.

when i changed the one on my 2.4 id never changed one before and was a bit nervous, so i got my mate whos a mechanic to drop by and do the actual belt swap, after id stripped the rad out and everything else off.

he then came back when the it needed to come back off again to do the water pump. then when the seal went and it needed to come back off AGAIN. he couldnt come as was working away on business, but he said you may aswell do it your self its not that hard, and youve seen me do it, and anyways youve done a few engine swaps now, which im sure is a lot more complicated than changing a belt.

so that was the first one i changed, but there really not that hard, but i will do a bit of a write up for you and others who may need to change in the future.

If Roger is reading this, maybe you would be so kind as to post up torque settings for the bolts that hold the water pump on, and also any other bolts that i will need to remove, belt tensioners maybe? thanks.

off to the scrap yard this morning to try and find a suitable electric fan. then im almost ready to begin fitting the new bits.

just want to get one of these in-line thermostat switch's to control the fan:-

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-Fan.asp

heres the wiring instructions for it.

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/Instructions/X-Fan.pdf

but ive found the same alloy housings on ebay a lot cheaper:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160562099474? ... 2415wt_754

so that one is only £7.50 delivered to my door, as opposed to £24 from X-ENG. only problem is the ebay one doesnt have the same size threaded hole as the X-ENG one, so that thermo switch wont fit.

so might just have to buy the expensive one from X-ENG.

id be interested in any details of the one Roger fitted to his, as i know you tapped a thread in the thermostat housing on the engine IIRC.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

This is my setup I fitted when I installed the new rad a couple of years ago with a 16" electric fan:

I used a similar thermo switch to Roger (the one he used, pictured above, has been discontinued), it is 3/8" thread and switches at 95*C from a Diahatsu (cant remember which model).

I fitted the fan in pull formation on the back of the rad attached to the original the shroud. I’ve done a lot of research into fans and radiators (don’t ask why, I’ll go all geeky!) and the efficiency of fans spaced back off the core and shrouded is almost double that of one mounted directly to the core. Also as an interesting point; fans fitted in “pull” on the rear of a rad tend to be 20-30% more effective than the same fan fitted in “push” on the front, this seems to be down to the fan blocking its own and the radiators airflow slightly and also the air seems to be less turbulent in when in “pull” formation. The main reason for fitting the fan on the back of the rad is I plan to fit an intercooler in front of the rad at a later date.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

The bottom hose / radiator return feed is a better place for the thermo switch, the fan will tend to run more than it needs to if you use the top hose / radiator feed.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

The fan rarely comes on as it is, if I put the thermal switch on the bottom hose it would never come on as the bottom of the rad never gets warm!