LJ70 Build Thread!

[Jon Wildsmith]

was going to slip a bigger tube over the existing bars, and then weld around the ends.

In which case I don't think it matters if it's a loose fit, the two tubes combined should be very strong even with relatively thin wall tube, no need for super thick stuff IMO.

 

[Gav Peter]

I think that Jon's idea of rosette welding the sleeve would be a good one & IMHO, the 3.5mm wall combined with the larger outside diameter should be plenty strong enough too

 

[Chris]

It does Mike. Point was that Ben wanted something larger than 25mm so I understand - so Red Band was out, as it was only available in 25mm ID regardless of the seam

I use if for rock sliders due to the wall thickness.


Chris

 

[jeepmadmike]

Need to find a machine shop which does riffling (machining long bores) I've only ever known one but there must be others

It would just be easier to get some new bars made...

 

[Ben]

thanks for all your help guys.

regarding slipping a piece of solid bar inside the tube, that would be ok, but i wouldnt be able to weld it in place, as the track rod end goes quite away inside the tube, so i wouldnt be able to get into weld.

i could leave it loose though, if it was quite a tight fit? will see if i can find anyhing tomorrow.

regarding having new bars made, i know for Glyn Lewis to start making the 80 series sumo bars he had to invest in 2 taps, to cut the threads in the ends of the bars. 1 is a right hand thread and 1 a left hand thread.

so if i was to have some made, i think id call him, as i know hes got the cutters and machines to make them.

but......................ive spent 2 grand on my truck in the last month, so really need to try and save some dosh and make more stuff myself.

so anyway.............back to the sleeving.

1 piece of galvanised tube.

the steering bar wasnt a bad fit inside.

i measured from the end of the slit in each end of the steering tube, and then knocked off 20mm to give me 10mm clearance each end.
tube cut to length.

marked the steering bar, where i intended to weld, so that i knew where to grind the tube in order to have nice clean metal to weld to.

all ready to weld, or so i thought.....................

then i thought damm................must put something inside the tube to prevent weld splatter from going on the threads.

a soaking wet rag poked down inside the tube would do nicely.

once id tacked one end with it horizontal in the vice, i could stand it upright in the other vice, and begin welding all the way around.

other end.

gave it a quick clean up with a flap wheel disc in the grinder.

so roughly assembled to make sure everything will work.

i just hope its strong enough.

need to give the welded ends a quick spray with some galv spray paint then thats the 1 bar done.

need a piece of tube for the rear bar next.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I'm sure that bigger tube will be strong enough Ben but it would be even stronger with some rosette welds joining the two tubes along their length as well

 

[Ben]

how many do you think it would need? and should i alternate there positions on the bar, or just have them in a line?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

based on nothing scientific I would make it up as I went along, not too many but enough to be worth bothering If it were mine I'd try groups of 3 at 150mm intervals, so I'd do one, turn the bar 120 degrees and do another say 20mm from the first, turn the bar 120 degrees and do another 20mm further along, then leave a 150mm gap and start again but as I say that's got no scientific basis just what my mind imagines is a good compromise

 

[Ben]

ok thanks John.

do you think it will make a lot of difference strength wise?

 

[Andrew Prince]

The welds will introduce stresses and may even distort the combined tube a little - how true does it need to be? Obviously your last one suggests that it doesn't have to be perfect

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

The welds should more or less cancel each other out in that pattern. The lattice effect they create should make the combined structure very strong based on my laymans (mis)understanding of these things but as you know I'm not an engineer.

 

[jeepmadmike]

I hope the ozzy MOT (if they have one) isn't like the uk, welding on steering parts is not allowed other than during the manufacture....

Looks good and as already said some extra welds along its length would be good (much like bonding two bits of timber together= much stronger than no bond)

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Ben is manufacturing a new part isn't he

 

[wobbly]

Manufacturing a new car, I think.

 

[Trevor]

Looks like an interesting mod as I bent my steering bars last year, the only bit that I'm puzzled about is if the new bar takes a whack, will it transfer the force to the exposed threaded end of the inner steering bar and either bend at that point or shear at the weld?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Looks like an interesting mod as I bent my steering bars last year, the only bit that I'm puzzled about is if the new bar takes a whack, will it transfer the force to the exposed threaded end of the inner steering bar and either bend at that point or shear at the weld?

If there's enough force that's most likely where it would bend now but there's always a weakest link.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The weakest link will probably be the ball joints.

But all of this is academic. I fitted a plate, welded to the winch box, to protect the steering mechanism. It has been bashed against rocks, tree stumps and general this and that. It is bent---slightly---and needs a dash of paint now and again but it does exactly what it says on the tin.

If Ben was to fit a similar plate, his problem would be over.

Roger

 

[Ben]

The weakest link will probably be the ball joints.

But all of this is academic. I fitted a plate, welded to the winch box, to protect the steering mechanism. It has been bashed against rocks, tree stumps and general this and that. It is bent---slightly---and needs a dash of paint now and again but it does exactly what it says on the tin.

If Ben was to fit a similar plate, his problem would be over.

Roger

i keep bending my steering bar by turning the steering wheel, not by driving into things!!!!!

if one of my tyres is inadvertently against a rock, tree stump, rut, etc. and i try and turn the steering wheel, not realising my tyre is against something, rather than me feeling through the steering wheel that the tyre is against something, the steering wheel keeps turning and i dont feel a thing.

next thing i know i try turning right/left and instead keep going straight because my steering bar is now like a banana!

hopefully the strengthened bars will solve this problem!

i will be adding a guard like yours Roger, as that will stop it getting bent through me driving into things, but at the moment that isnt the reason for me bending steering bars!

 

[Ben]

I hope the ozzy MOT (if they have one) isn't like the uk, welding on steering parts is not allowed other than during the manufacture....

Looks good and as already said some extra welds along its length would be good (much like bonding two bits of timber together= much stronger than no bond)

im always being concious of the mods i do and how they will effect me getting the truck on the road in OZ.

the bodylift spacers that are currently fitted wont be legal in OZ so they will need changing before i go.

i was thinking of doing the castor adjustment mod that Chris has done, but i can see that causing me problems when i get to OZ. i cant see them liking me having drilled new holes in my axle and welded washers on.

thinking of just buying some castor correction bushes.

http://www.ironman4x4.com/pdfs/suspensi ... r_bush.pdf

i would have made my own castor correction plates, but i havnt got enough lift for that.

http://www.ironman4x4.com/pdfs/suspensi ... ate001.pdf

 

[Ben]

finally got the front bar finished tonight, using Johns rosette welding suggestion.

so first i drilled the bar.

then i fired the MIG up with the AMP's turned up quite high!

once the welds were cool, i ground them down using the bench grinder.

then gave the bar a good goat of galv spray.

1 finished bar.

had a parcel waiting for me in the office when i got back from site today. the girls in the office couldnt resist gratifying it!

my new solenoid which is an albright type one.

just waiting on my wireless remotes, and then i can sort my winch out. the remotes wont be here for a while though as there coming from Hong Kong. more ebay bargains!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180767617537? ... 3197wt_979