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LJ70 Build Thread!
- Thread starter Ben
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Crushers said:
no, im sorry but i cant think of a single instance when i would want to be 150ft from my vehicle, and want to be operating my winch?
ive had my cheap Chinese winch for the last 4 years, and had no problems, until now when the solenoids have packed up after repeatedly getting drowned, and in that time ive given it some serious abuse!
ive only ever used it for self recovery, where ive been sat in the drivers seat driving forward whilst pressing the winch in button.
or ive been recovering others, where ive been sat in the vehicle with my foot firmly on the brake whilst pressing the winch in button.
the only other thing ive used it for is for bending back/straightening bent vehicle parts, and winching fallen trees/branches out of the way.
in all these instances ive never been more than a few feet from the vehicle and have normally been sat in the vehicle.
so i ask when/where would i need 150ft of range with a winch remote?
Crushers
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wheeling might be a bit different in europe but here we usually have the 150 ft of cable or rope on the winch and sometimes another 50 ft of extension in the vehicle
and
there are instances where we have used all this and more to get our butts out of the mess our right foot got us into. skag fields in the summer, deep snow in the winter, long hills after a rain to mention a few instances.
a 50 ft tug is accomplished with a kenetic rope or a tug'm and a second vehicle.
as for the chinese winches, i have nothing against the chinese products in general. you can get good or bad so it can be a crap shoot. they even make parts for my favorite winch the Warn 8274. i have a tiny 2000 lb chinese winch mounted on my float for loading dead Cruisers and have winched 6000 lbs with it numerous times and it doesn't even heat up ... but it is s l o w doing it.
if that controller was 150 ft or 200 ft i would be all over it in a heart beat. with the factory controller you have about 20 ft of remote line so it is either a buddy system or short runs out. (most of the 8274s i know of, the free wheeling system is ... well ... inoperative after a few winchings)
and
there are instances where we have used all this and more to get our butts out of the mess our right foot got us into. skag fields in the summer, deep snow in the winter, long hills after a rain to mention a few instances.
a 50 ft tug is accomplished with a kenetic rope or a tug'm and a second vehicle.
as for the chinese winches, i have nothing against the chinese products in general. you can get good or bad so it can be a crap shoot. they even make parts for my favorite winch the Warn 8274. i have a tiny 2000 lb chinese winch mounted on my float for loading dead Cruisers and have winched 6000 lbs with it numerous times and it doesn't even heat up ... but it is s l o w doing it.
if that controller was 150 ft or 200 ft i would be all over it in a heart beat. with the factory controller you have about 20 ft of remote line so it is either a buddy system or short runs out. (most of the 8274s i know of, the free wheeling system is ... well ... inoperative after a few winchings)
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i still dont understand. 
do you mean to say that when your winching, because im guessing youve lost traction/are stuck. your not sat in the vehicle trying to drive, aswell as winching?
surely some one is sat in the vehicle, even if only to steer it?
do you mean to say that when your winching, because im guessing youve lost traction/are stuck. your not sat in the vehicle trying to drive, aswell as winching?
surely some one is sat in the vehicle, even if only to steer it?
Crushers
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if you are wheeling alone, and i do this often, then you need to get the cable from the winch to the anchor point.
now if you are fortunate enough to have the free spool working then it isn't a big deal, turn, pull, attach, walk back, winch in and hope the hook doesn't decide to slip off the cable otherwise it is repeat.
if you are buried up to the headlights in skag then you don't really want to do it a second time.
plus, if you free wheel then you have a chance for the cable to come loose from the drum and get tangled where as if you are winching out you have control of the amount of cable and the tension of the remainder on the drum, you get to the anchor point you can put set the hook and winch in till you have tension.
once you are back at your vehicle you can gently rotate the tires while winching to help the winch in its task.
the way i read your post it seemed you are never more than 50 ft away from your anchor point ... maybe i misread the post.
now if you are fortunate enough to have the free spool working then it isn't a big deal, turn, pull, attach, walk back, winch in and hope the hook doesn't decide to slip off the cable otherwise it is repeat.
if you are buried up to the headlights in skag then you don't really want to do it a second time.
plus, if you free wheel then you have a chance for the cable to come loose from the drum and get tangled where as if you are winching out you have control of the amount of cable and the tension of the remainder on the drum, you get to the anchor point you can put set the hook and winch in till you have tension.
once you are back at your vehicle you can gently rotate the tires while winching to help the winch in its task.
the way i read your post it seemed you are never more than 50 ft away from your anchor point ... maybe i misread the post.
Andrew Prince
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I think you guys are talking at cross purposes and confusing winch cable range and remote range
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Crushers said:if you are wheeling alone, and i do this often, then you need to get the cable from the winch to the anchor point.
now if you are fortunate enough to have the free spool working then it isn't a big deal, turn, pull, attach, walk back, winch in and hope the hook doesn't decide to slip off the cable otherwise it is repeat.
if you are buried up to the headlights in skag then you don't really want to do it a second time.
plus, if you free wheel then you have a chance for the cable to come loose from the drum and get tangled where as if you are winching out you have control of the amount of cable and the tension of the remainder on the drum, you get to the anchor point you can put set the hook and winch in till you have tension.
once you are back at your vehicle you can gently rotate the tires while winching to help the winch in its task.
the way i read your post it seemed you are never more than 50 ft away from your anchor point ... maybe i misread the post.
yes my free spool works perfectly! switch to free spool, pull the cable out, snap the hook onto the tree strop, which is around a suitable tree. switch back to in spool, get back in and then winch and drive!
how does your hook slip off your cable?
the only thing i can think is that maybe your hook doesnt have a spring loaded snap clip on it?
this is the sort of hook i and most use in the UK. never had one slip off
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100ft-10mm-Sy ... 4160e0bbfc
Andrew Prince said:I think you guys are talking at cross purposes and confusing winch cable range and remote range
yes that is a possibility, as im still confused.
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was out yesterday for the day with another 4x4 club in north Wales, so couldnt do any work on my truck yesterday. so today i decided to get up and do the water pump, cambelt, radiator, electric fan, and start piping the intercooler up.
so pic before i start.
firstly i went and dug the barrel i use when draining coolant out of the shed. this is useful because it means when i come to either put the coolant back in the rad, or pour it into a bottle to be disposed of theres a little tap on the bottom which makes things nice and easy.
so i connected a hose to the tap on the bottom of the rad and put this into the top of the barrel.
and turned the tap and began drainign the rad. undoing the rad cap speeds things up a lot here.
fired the notebook up with the toyota pdf manuals ive got, in particular the 1KZT engine manual, and had a quick look at what would be involved.
got bored and just decided to crack on.
next job was to remove all the brackets id made to attach the 4-runner rad to the truck.
followed by the slightly knackered rad.
this gave a clearer view of the engine and have me more room to work.
next job was to remove the viscous fan. this is held on with 4 12mm nuts, just behind the fan.
if you put a spanner on and just try turning, then the whole fan and pulley turn. the best technique i found was to put the spanner on and gently tap the end with your hand and the nut should spin loose.
fan off.
the pulley that the fan was attached to, and the 2 belts should now slip off.
next i undid the 4 10mm headed bolts that hold the plastic cambelt cover on, and pulled the cover off.
this revealed the cambelt.
and the tensioner.
at this point i realised that id made a slight error.
when i changed the cambelt on the old 2.4 engine, a few days later the water pump started leaking, then after this was fixed a few days later the front main seal started leaking oil everywhere.
so i bought a new cambelt, water pump and front main seal for this new engine. but...............................
now ive stripped it down ive realised that in order to change the cambelt, the water pump and front main seal dont get touched at all, unlike when changing the belt on the 2.4.
this engine looks a lot better designed. it just seems so simple. once the rad is out its then just 8 bolts/nuts to get to the cambelt, and then the cambelt only has 2 pulleys to align, and the tension for the belt is controlled by the tensioner. so in theory a cambelt change on one of these engine shouldnt take more than a couple of hours at most.
anyway back to the job at hand. i was in 2 minds as to whether to change the water pump or not, seen as its been working fine and me changing the cambelt wont interfere with it at all.
but i thought what the hell ive bought the new part lets just fit it.
so the water pump was covered in crap.
so got some brushes ready to clean all the crap off, so nothing falls inside when i remove the pump.
started undoing the bolts, and found some of them are different lengths.
chose to lay them all out, so that i know which goes where.
good idea to have a bowl underneath ready to catch the coolant out of the engine.
so pulled the pump away from the engine.
the pump and gasket both looked in really good condition, so i will keep them as spares.
while that was draining i put a big spanner on the main crankshaft nut and turned the engine over until the mark's on the pulley lined up with the marks on the engine.
some one has obviously changed the belt before, because theyve put white marks on the engine and pulleys and these all line up.
just come in for a cup of tea while the coolant drains. going back out shortly, but thought id update this while i was in.
so pic before i start.
firstly i went and dug the barrel i use when draining coolant out of the shed. this is useful because it means when i come to either put the coolant back in the rad, or pour it into a bottle to be disposed of theres a little tap on the bottom which makes things nice and easy.
so i connected a hose to the tap on the bottom of the rad and put this into the top of the barrel.
and turned the tap and began drainign the rad. undoing the rad cap speeds things up a lot here.
fired the notebook up with the toyota pdf manuals ive got, in particular the 1KZT engine manual, and had a quick look at what would be involved.
got bored and just decided to crack on.
next job was to remove all the brackets id made to attach the 4-runner rad to the truck.
followed by the slightly knackered rad.
this gave a clearer view of the engine and have me more room to work.
next job was to remove the viscous fan. this is held on with 4 12mm nuts, just behind the fan.
if you put a spanner on and just try turning, then the whole fan and pulley turn. the best technique i found was to put the spanner on and gently tap the end with your hand and the nut should spin loose.
fan off.
the pulley that the fan was attached to, and the 2 belts should now slip off.
next i undid the 4 10mm headed bolts that hold the plastic cambelt cover on, and pulled the cover off.
this revealed the cambelt.
and the tensioner.
at this point i realised that id made a slight error.
when i changed the cambelt on the old 2.4 engine, a few days later the water pump started leaking, then after this was fixed a few days later the front main seal started leaking oil everywhere.
so i bought a new cambelt, water pump and front main seal for this new engine. but...............................
now ive stripped it down ive realised that in order to change the cambelt, the water pump and front main seal dont get touched at all, unlike when changing the belt on the 2.4.
this engine looks a lot better designed. it just seems so simple. once the rad is out its then just 8 bolts/nuts to get to the cambelt, and then the cambelt only has 2 pulleys to align, and the tension for the belt is controlled by the tensioner. so in theory a cambelt change on one of these engine shouldnt take more than a couple of hours at most.
anyway back to the job at hand. i was in 2 minds as to whether to change the water pump or not, seen as its been working fine and me changing the cambelt wont interfere with it at all.
but i thought what the hell ive bought the new part lets just fit it.
so the water pump was covered in crap.
so got some brushes ready to clean all the crap off, so nothing falls inside when i remove the pump.
started undoing the bolts, and found some of them are different lengths.
chose to lay them all out, so that i know which goes where.
good idea to have a bowl underneath ready to catch the coolant out of the engine.
so pulled the pump away from the engine.
the pump and gasket both looked in really good condition, so i will keep them as spares.
while that was draining i put a big spanner on the main crankshaft nut and turned the engine over until the mark's on the pulley lined up with the marks on the engine.
some one has obviously changed the belt before, because theyve put white marks on the engine and pulleys and these all line up.
just come in for a cup of tea while the coolant drains. going back out shortly, but thought id update this while i was in.
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how many pulleys and tensioners! 
so back to the cambelt and water pump.
i went back out and put some blue tissue inside where the pump goes to keep any dirt out while i used some fine emery paper to clean up the mating face on the engine where the pump mounts.
next i did what i should have done before i removed the water pump, compared the new pump to the old one.
5hit! milner must have given me the pump for a 90series as its totally different.
i can only think that the 1KZT pump must be different to the later 1KZT-E pump.
so weighted up the options and decided to re-fit the old pump, but i knew that the pump/gasket would probably leak as i didnt have a new gasket.
so i cleaned up the old gasket and mating face on the pump.
got some RTV sealant out.
i then applied the tinniest bead of silicon i could, first to the gasket.
once the gasket was pushed firmly in place i applied the tiniest bead i could to the pump.
ive used thread lock on every single bolt on the engine while re-assembling.
so pump back on.
and torqued the bolts to toyota's spec.
so back to the cambelt.
i removed the tensioner pulley first using a 10mm allen key.
so theres a bolt, then pulley then washer.
compared the old one with the new one and they are identical, even though the new one wasnt in genuine toyota parts packaging.
next i needed to remove the tensioner.
this bit.
unbolted it and then compared it to the new one which is a genuine part. the old one is slightly longer, but the bolt holes and everything else is the same.
whipped the old belt off next.
and compared it with the new one.
carefully trying not to move either of the pulleys, which are lined up with all the correct marks on the engine block and pulleys.
position the belt around the bottom pulley first (as this one has a lip around its edge, its not possible to do the top pulley then the bottom.)
with it wrapped around the bottom pulley, pull it taught and slip it over the top pulley.
its important to keep the top edge of the belt taught, the bottom can be loose for now as the tensioner will take up that slack.
the top edge of the belt needs to be taught and needs to line up perfectly with the notches in the pulleys.
i had to nip off at this point and borrow a 10mm allen key socket off my mate, as i didnt have one, but knew id need one for the torque wrench.
so tensioner pulley in place and with the allen key bolt tightened to the correct torque.
i kept referring back to the toyota manual for torque settings, and made sure all bolts were thread locked.
so with the tensioner pulley pushed firmly against the belt it was time to install the tensioner.
new tensioner in position.
i did a final check that the belt was on properly and all the markings lined up, note the pin in the tensioner waiting to be removed.
pin removed.
gave the engine 1 full turn over with a big spanner on the crankshaft nut, to make sure everything was ok.
cleaned and refitted the cover.
refitted the top pulley and belts, minus the viscous fan as thats staying off in favour of an electric one.
its stopped raining now, so going out to fit the new rad.
so back to the cambelt and water pump.
i went back out and put some blue tissue inside where the pump goes to keep any dirt out while i used some fine emery paper to clean up the mating face on the engine where the pump mounts.
next i did what i should have done before i removed the water pump, compared the new pump to the old one.
5hit! milner must have given me the pump for a 90series as its totally different.
i can only think that the 1KZT pump must be different to the later 1KZT-E pump.
so weighted up the options and decided to re-fit the old pump, but i knew that the pump/gasket would probably leak as i didnt have a new gasket.
so i cleaned up the old gasket and mating face on the pump.
got some RTV sealant out.
i then applied the tinniest bead of silicon i could, first to the gasket.
once the gasket was pushed firmly in place i applied the tiniest bead i could to the pump.
ive used thread lock on every single bolt on the engine while re-assembling.
so pump back on.
and torqued the bolts to toyota's spec.
so back to the cambelt.
i removed the tensioner pulley first using a 10mm allen key.
so theres a bolt, then pulley then washer.
compared the old one with the new one and they are identical, even though the new one wasnt in genuine toyota parts packaging.
next i needed to remove the tensioner.
this bit.
unbolted it and then compared it to the new one which is a genuine part. the old one is slightly longer, but the bolt holes and everything else is the same.
whipped the old belt off next.
and compared it with the new one.
carefully trying not to move either of the pulleys, which are lined up with all the correct marks on the engine block and pulleys.
position the belt around the bottom pulley first (as this one has a lip around its edge, its not possible to do the top pulley then the bottom.)
with it wrapped around the bottom pulley, pull it taught and slip it over the top pulley.
its important to keep the top edge of the belt taught, the bottom can be loose for now as the tensioner will take up that slack.
the top edge of the belt needs to be taught and needs to line up perfectly with the notches in the pulleys.
i had to nip off at this point and borrow a 10mm allen key socket off my mate, as i didnt have one, but knew id need one for the torque wrench.
so tensioner pulley in place and with the allen key bolt tightened to the correct torque.
i kept referring back to the toyota manual for torque settings, and made sure all bolts were thread locked.
so with the tensioner pulley pushed firmly against the belt it was time to install the tensioner.
new tensioner in position.
i did a final check that the belt was on properly and all the markings lined up, note the pin in the tensioner waiting to be removed.
pin removed.
gave the engine 1 full turn over with a big spanner on the crankshaft nut, to make sure everything was ok.
cleaned and refitted the cover.
refitted the top pulley and belts, minus the viscous fan as thats staying off in favour of an electric one.
its stopped raining now, so going out to fit the new rad.
Roger Fairclough
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There are two clips on the cam belt cover as well as the 4 bolts.
Did you find them/take them off?
Roger
Did you find them/take them off?
Roger
ModelMakerMan
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Nice write up, thanks. Will be really helpful when I do mine. Did you get all your parts from Milner?
AndyCook
Well-Known Member
Good rightup
what a pain about water pump being wrong
but it will easier to replace now viscous fan isnt going back on
i always turn engine round manually like you did
but i am always still terrifed when i turn the starter key after the work is done
what a pain about water pump being wrong
but it will easier to replace now viscous fan isnt going back on
i always turn engine round manually like you did
but i am always still terrifed when i turn the starter key after the work is done
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Crushers said:after i apply silicone to the mating surfaces i wet my finger and spread it around a whee bit. it seems to prevent the silicon from spreading into the operational sections.
frustrating when the wrong parts arrives, eh? PITA.
damm didnt think of doing that.
good idea though.
yes real PITA!
i thought the chap behind the counter didnt seem to be listening when i was trying to tell him ive got a 3litre engine out of a UK model 4-runner. Roger Fairclough said:
didnt see any clips mate, but just had a looked in the toyota manual, and it does mention them.
they must have been removed and never replace by whoever last did the cambelt.
how critical are they?
ModelMakerMan said:
glad it will help people. really is an easy job to do and definitely a lot easier than the 2.4 belt. yes all parts from milners mate.
AndyCook said:
thanks mate.
not sure whether im going to change the pump now or not. might just get my money back.
Roger Fairclough
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The clips are probably more for vibration reduction. They are not likely to be critical but Toyota fitted them for a reason. I would leave the pump as is and just get a refund.
Roger
Roger
