Splitting the transfer from the main gearbox

[Ciderman]

Hello you lovely people....
I have searched and cant find a definitive post, but would any of you be kind enough to give me a step by step guide on separating the transfer box from the main gearbox?
I'm going to tackle the clutch change and its definitely beneficial to do it leaving the engine in, with a bit of radiator out/fan off engine tippage jiggery.

Will be doing it on the ground, with the truck stood on 4 high lift axle stands plus i have a decent gearbox jack trolley to assist.

So, apart from disconnecting the propshafts, how much of the transfer needs to be stripped to get it off the gearbox - or is it a total gutting out job?

Any photos of the sequence also a bonus...!

 

[Shayne]

I have a 2" body lift so maybe mine was easier but remember you only need to split it enough to get your alignment tool in .

I'd never done a clutch before but it was pretty straight forward , Starter motor bolts first from the engine bay , unbolt slave cylinder and let it hang , I then unhooked all the electrics and breathers though i'm not sure i needed to . Undo the supporting cross member then all the casing bolts .

You want a bunch of extension bars for your ratchet to get at top casing bolts .

 

[Ciderman]

I have a 2" body lift so maybe mine was easier but remember you only need to split it enough to get your alignment tool in .

I'd never done a clutch before but it was pretty straight forward , Starter motor bolts first from the engine bay , unbolt slave cylinder and let it hang , I then unhooked all the electrics and breathers though i'm not sure i needed to . Undo the supporting cross member then all the casing bolts .

You want a bunch of extension bars for your ratchet to get at top casing bolts .

Cheers Shayne, thats excellent!!
When you say the casing bolts, you mean the bell housing? Or does the transfer need to come off?
I've heard the transfer adds a lot of weight and is best removed, but having said that, if I've got the gearbox cradle jack, i guess its more about keeping fingers clear.

To be fair, ive spent a lot of time wriggling about underneath and there does seem to be a mile of room in all directions.

*i was going to get it up on 4 high lift 4 tonne stands and get the whole thing up off the deck by half a metre or so.... little by little.
Considering making a set of massive steel ramps for one end and then stands for the other end

 

[Shayne]

Yeah I left the case on , used a forklift to take the weight but cursed many a time because i didn't have a cradle and the forklift was in full time use by its owner so I'd prop it up with bits of wood and stuff . No question in my mind a cradle would have made the job much easier because my tyres were sat on the floor when i did it .

Not sure why weight makes a difference when to heavy to drop on your toe just remains to heavy even if you double it .

Its size makes it intimidating but reality is its one of those common sense self explanatory jobs .

The paperclip like thing on the release bearing was for me the most complicated part of the job , was a bugger to clip tidy .

 

[Ciderman]

Yeah I left the case on , used a forklift to take the weight but cursed many a time because i didn't have a cradle and the forklift was in full time use by its owner so I'd prop it up with bits of wood and stuff . No question in my mind a cradle would have made the job much easier because my tyres were sat on the floor when i did it .

Not sure why weight makes a difference when to heavy to drop on your toe just remains to heavy even if you double it .

Its size makes it intimidating but reality is its one of those common sense self explanatory jobs .

The paperclip like thing on the release bearing was for me the most complicated part of the job , was a bugger to clip tidy .

Love it LOL!
Thanks a million, a plan is well and truly afoot.

I dont mean the plan involves my foot... but i guess my feet may be useful at some point for dragging a wobble bar extension or a socket making a break for freedom.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

The top starter motor bolt/ nut can be a bugger to get to easily. Get a 3' half inch drive extension with a universal joint and appropriate socket and undo it standing in front of the truck. I think it's a stud and nut from memory. Removing the stud can make it easier for reassembly as there isn't a lot of wiggle room in the tunnel. I've done a couple on my own, I took the transfer box off first to reduce the weight.
We did one ( Towpack, Chris and myself) on our truck ramp but it helped Chris and TP could man handle the box in and out stood up.
With careful watching the engine can be tilted back to the bulkhead without the fan touching the rad.

 

[Ciderman]

Thanks Andy, all advice is most welcome!

 

[karl webster]

I did one recently. Drop gearbox crossmember and leave on a jack. I got to all bolts.had to use extension on one one of the top drivers side bolts.

 

[Ciderman]

I did one recently. Drop gearbox crossmember and leave on a jack. I got to all bolts.had to use extension on one one of the top drivers side bolts.

Superb. Ill be fitting the Aisin clutch asap. I believe thats the OEM or as close to OEM without going through Toyota and selling a kidney.

 

[Shayne]

I got Aisin uprated from Roughtrax though had to wait a good while for them to get stock .