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Regarding the 70 mph speed, it will depend on the gearing. The motors aren't exactly a powerhouse but it will be fine doing highway speeds

It's probably worth actually dropped the trans sump and searching for metal inside. There are 3 tiny round magnets on the bottom side of the sump and it will attract any loose metal shavings/wear. So even though you drained it, these pieces may not have flown out with the fluid. Won't cost...

If the clutch packs are gone then I don't think you'll hear any noise. In my case, I didn't let it get as bad as yours before having the box re-built. If it is the clutches then replacing the trans fluid can actually make matters worse because the cleaner oil is harder for everything to grip...

I'm not too sure what those ground wire controls but it was clear in my case that over a matter of couple months it had chewed up the trans. In my case, when the first head cracked, I took it to a shop that swapped a low mileage import engine into it. They however forgot to tighten down those...

That hose is blocked off like yours on most models. Some models had a water inlet on the intake to help the engine get up to temp quicker by circulating coolant through it. No need to worry there. Just make sure it's all well and sealed.

Ok, those are the wires I was talking about. Guess they're not exactly where mine are but around the same area. Now, I've had those wires loose years ago which caused the box to act 100% like yours. It would be hesitant off the mark and eventually a bit dangerous. Long story short, the box...

Trace the wires from the Gearbox. I am pretty certain my truck has the autobox earth wires around the oil filter area. Remove the airbox to see more clear.

Yup. The earth is on the filter housing. Make sure these are good.

The coolant circuit is open so it doesn't matter where the pressure enters, the entire circuit is running under the same pressure. These systems get fed from the bottom, through the block, then head and back out on the top side of the rad.

Sounds like a problem directly related to where the thermostat bolts on. More common to blow a hose if the system has pressure in it. I would check back that area

I have the complete 1KZT-E Manual which I think has the wiring diagrams included. I just PM'ed you

I've damaged an AC line once on my 350z and had a local shop weld up the fractured piece and it held up fine. Is that possible for you?

I think for the amount of time and effort you'd spend getting those bolts out, you're far better off removing the pump and dealing with it on the Bench. It's not a difficult job getting the pump out. Question is, do you continue driving it until they fail, or deal with it when you have some...

380 km on my 1996 Colorado/Prado

Yup, I've had a catch can and blocked EGR for the past 60,000 miles. When I had the intake off absolutely zero oil/crud. EGR is more so the killer than the crankcase pressure on these diesels I believe.

Relay is unlikely to fail in my opinion. Is your compressor not kicking on? Maybe it's actually seized? If you check for power at the connector it will tell you if power is being sent to the compressor which would indicate the relay is working. Other reasons why it may not come on is if it's...

Saw that one but at 250+ I could just get a SCV and swap it out. PM Sent Iwan

As above, mine took a crap yesterday. Pretty sure it's the Spill control valve, but might as well hunt for a good working used pump if possible. As usual these things happen when I need to use the truck! Anyone got a spare one lying around?

Aren't you supposed to break in all break pads? I've always braked hard from about 50 mph a to a slight roll a few times until they get hot/start to fade and then drive around for 10 minutes for them to cool down. After that they should be 100% bedded. I've done this on all my cars. The...

Well firstly, the Spill control valve doesn't operate at 12v. And one should never apply 12v as this will fry it. I believe it works from a range of 0-4 volts, and this is some kind of pulse wave signal. (I'm no electrician) My point is, it's firstly hard to read voltage at the solenoid, and...

With the amount of money you'd spend, you could easily stick a manual injector pump, throw a intercooler, exhaust and wind up the boost and come in close to 180 hp and 500+ nm torque. Proven setup. It would be much more drivable and torquey than a petrol V8.

Since fitting my catch can, it's removed about 90% of the oil seepage around the Intake manifold. Takes a good 10k miles before the can has about a cupful of thick looking oil.

Still sounds like it's struggling for fuel, especially when it got worst after messing around on the fuel related side. I know those D4D engines can be picky with fuel quality. Are there any filters in the injector pump like the KZ one?

Welcome. If you're ever down in Melbourne area, pop by!

Sounds like the SCV and your truck is on the higher millage end. Was there any way of specifically testing this valve, like the KZ one with measuring the resistance?

Seems it has the issue when calling for more fuel, so would point to not receiving what it needs. Either a blockage or sucking air in the line? Start with the simple stuff first right?

Interesting read on the batteries. I know on my 90, the negatives are not linked battery to battery but one goes to the body/engine, and the other to the body. So you're saying, if linked the batteries should last longer? How much so is the question as wouldn't Toyota have done this from...

Interesting. I'd be interested to know what info would be pulled on a 1kzte engine

A bit tatty don't you think?

How much is the stuff these days? I did mine myself couple years ago and $30 worth of R134A plus $5 PAG oil and it's been good as new. And I'd suspect the stuff is cheaper in Bulk.

Well our 90 has been with me/my father for 20 years now... It was the first car I actually took on the road at 16, and took me through the majority of my college years. I'm 24 by the way

I've got a spare complete compressor kicking about, but I won't be able to get it to you till June.

Bit puzzling really why the UK got top spec models when our climate isn't exactly extreme. I suppose long term if you plan on taking the truck off road it might be worth looking for one with a rear diff lock. If not, then you'll be fine. And always have the option later on on adding one...

If you're gonna go through the effort of bringing one back, I'd say why bother with the petrol engine when they are sold in the US already, whereas the diesel will be a unicorn, whether that be 1KZ or D4-D. I actually thought the 4runner chassis was the same too.... But I was wrong. It's about...

Looks like my truck may have a future friend. As far as I know I have the only 90 in the US. I'd say look for overall better condition trucks (body, rust ect) vs engine type. Both are good once well looked after.

Might be worth swapping to P rated tires first in the same size and seeing if the comfort level is what you want. If not, then suspension change will be in order. Btw I have a front coil spring lift spacer for sale if anyone is interested.

Very cool and most likely one of a kind. More pics would be great I've always wished the rear window would roll down like the 4runner/surf models. It would mean fetching long pieces of wood and other stuff so much easier. Split tailgate designs are so practical.

Not a fan of the fake scoop, they could have at least done a IC to make it work. And something seems a little off with the transfer case leaver, as though it's in Low range, but it's on concrete???

Maybe not tourist friendly, but the concept of it should work well with the locals.

Could also be the filters inside the injector pump. But do the easy tank filter first.

If the problem came after you tinkered with the truck, then it's gotta be something you touched. Maybe it's sucking in air. Try putting a clear line on the return line from the Injector pump and see for air bubbles? There are filters located inside the injector pump. Maybe when you blew air...

Well, it might be worth changing it now... Start with the small and inexpensive stuff first.

Also worth mentioning that if you tow/load the back of the trucks the front will want to angle a bit upwards. So I've set my aim a tad below initially to accommodate for a little load on the back. For those who have electric adjustments to adjust the beam dip on the fly, you don't have to worry.

How long have you left it to idle for? Might just need to get the air out of the system. If it was running fine before then it's something you've physically removed/replaced that has caused this. Sounds like there's a blockage or air in the system. Did you change the fuel filter too?

Not sure if you mean out of the pump, or the valve itself? If out, you use a 32mm short spanner and simply unscrew it from the pump body. To disassemble, there are two tabs of the end of the valve that you need to bend back outward and that piece will pop out. The rest of the solenoid isn't...

Pretty certain the boxes are the same. If you crawl under you're see the same stamping/sticker on both diesel/petrol models. Like Andy said, it's just the ECU that is tuned to shift the boxes different.

If you can get the 75w90 which toyota suggest then best use it. But if not, I think the 80 weight would work fine. Stick in a 72 degree stat which is the lowest available one, otherwise during slow in-town traffic you may find the engine isn't getting hot enough for maximum efficiency. Also...

The various head gasket part numbers are different thickness gaskets. I believe they sell 1,3,5 hole gasket. I believe stock engines tend to have 2 hole gaskets so most people run a 3 hole gasket on replacement. If you skim the head/block then the 5 hole gasket is probably more appropriate

The one mentioned above, yes.

Get a spanner and spin the engine over a little on the crank bolt to make sure it's under tension. Maybe the engine rocked a little when shutting down backing the belt off slightly. Worth double checking the timing alignment marks too. But like others have said, it could just be a stretched...