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Can't get away with owt nowadays..

this is correct. if you dont want a lift, toyota are probable the best ride quality option.

genuine toyota rear springs are different part numbers with the 3rd row to account for the extra weight.

couple of years ago when our lad was six, for the first time when i collected him from school he brought a mate home with him for tea. shortly after starting the 80 his mate asked me what that noise was? i had no idea what he meant, for once there was no knocks whines or squeals. pulled up...

That's a heavy knock. Along with the other things mentioned it could be a piece of broken ring on top of the piston. You shouldn't be running it, but put your finger over the breather pipe that goes to the air Intake and remove the oil filler cap. See if the vapours "chug".

thats a shame.. all the best for the future Jake. that pic needs a trigger warning though, a 100 towing an 80..

and whats that pink thing in the middle of the pic? some proper weird shit going down on this outing... :D :D

sorry chaps, these are NLA from toyota.

good baseline data. now imagine going up those steep hills towing 3 tons.. correct, something ive been saying all along, i wont touch anything until a boost and EGT gauge has been fitted. some claim you can just go off the amount of black smoke from the exhaust. you cant, and ive got a few 1HD...

What else do you expect from the 6th form Marxist debating society?...

a lad called Martin, who I've not seen on here for a while, his dad imported a lovely 80 without any problems. He's local to me, so I can get him to make contact if your serious.

if you keep everything in tip top order, it shouldnt be a problem. push things and it will quickly become one.

ok, my last post on this as im starting to bore myself, let alone anyone else.. by diesel 80 series i mean 1HD T or 1HD FT. diesel 80 series. diesel 80 series. diesel 80 series. every single part for the 1HD T engine is still available new from toyota. bar the fuel return rail. you can...

You would have to be half mad to actively seek out a 1hz! :) They also have a bit of a habit of cracking heads. Not what you want in a towing vehicle. Other than cost, there is no point to there existence when the 1HDT and 1HDFT are available. Sorry GOK, I always feel a bit guilty when I'm...

No,no, and why? If your thinking of spending new 70 series money, why not import a rust free low mileage 80 from Japan? Just as little electronics as a 1hz, and just as simple to diagnose and repair. you would have plenty of cash left to go to town on the 80, including intercooler and g turbo.

tray back an 80.

Straight through yesterday! Happy Christmas Straight through crew! :thumbup:

What a clown..

Sorry, but the fella wind surfing the parasol at 2.36 made me laugh..

Possible TP. I didn't want to spend time and money on something I didn't like anyway.

i dont know TP. the general consensus of about 700c/1300f is probable on the conservative side, leaving a margin of error. which is no bad thing. in theory a diesel in stock tune should never produce potentially engine damaging EGTs. as soon as you start altering fueling all bets are off, hence...

what lorin says. i removed all that over complicated junk years ago. it was lethal in snow and ice. removal of the ABS pump leaves a great space for a compressor.

awesome find lorin! for the last couple of years ive been looking at the major alarm brands retro fit keyless entry systems, while not over difficult to install, they are far from plug and play. :thumbup:

thats pretty much spot on.

the problem with all of these driver aides is its very hard to go back once you rely on them. a bit like soft close toilet seats..

Nope, never seen that site before, interesting solutions.

Vauxhall as well.

If I'm installing a new turbo i drill and tap on the bench as its obviously easier. If the manifold doesn't need to come off I drill and tap in situ. A lot of 80s I've come across are close to needing the heater coolant/turbo water hard lines replacing due to corrosion, as well as turbo oil...

No worries. I'm based in leek, Staffordshire. Not far from alton towers! When I install the gauges I always install a manual boost controller and I tap the EGT probe into the exhaust manifold where its most accurate. I'm more than happy to do all of this for you if you don't fancy it yourself...

yeah im getting the crap as well. on my laptop.

im honestly convinced that non of this will actually work out how the government wants it to.

@felix2566 ok, im being blatant here, i think i need to start advertising a bit more.. :)

melted piston due to high EGTs, the head was also cracked. the piston bore was scored beyond a rebore and the walls were pushed out of shape. basically a new head and block needed.

in response to comments regarding altered profile fuel pins on another thread, and not wanting to hijack another members thread i have started a new one. the thinking behind a off the shelf altered profile fuel pin or an aneriod fuel pin, is its a consistent and drop in solution to "grinding"...

i hear you TP, and im not adverse to change, but there are three kinds of change to me. good change, bad change and change for the sake of change. on the whole progress is through evolution. people didnt need to be persuaded to move on from horse and cart to petrol driven cars or steam power...

Now that sir, is a good rant!

I don't want to dump on lukes thread. I'll post elsewhere tonight. Great looking 80 luke:thumbup:

They are fussy about oil level/condition. Make sure its where it should be, you need to check with the engine running. Hot means hot, check after a good run. Check the throttle cable to see if its set correctly and moves freely.

Have you got boost and EGT gauges fitted Felix?

:doh:

Here it is top left. Change the output seal while your in there.

you can never spend too long browsing the parts catalogue..

that reminds me...

I will try and get updated prices soon.

you can rattle gun it off and it will barely move. make sure you realign the marks before you remove the belt though. personally i would remove the rocker cover and brace the cam with a spanner as per FSM. off the top of my head the pulley bolt is 98nm. you could probable wedge it with a screw...

why do you need to remove the cam pulley?